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The rollers on the upper rack broke
There are eight guides that hold the rack rails in place. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the top two guides on each side in order to remove the rack from the dishwasher. The plastic axles on the rack and the rollers snap on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip on one end of the rail. Remove the plastic end piece then slide the rollers out. Place two new rollers in the rail and put the plastic end piece on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip back into place. Snap the rails on the rack and set the rack on the guides in the dishwasher. Replace the top guide using the screwdriver, you will have to twist the rails in order get them in between the guides.
Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.
Open the tiny plastic package in inserted the wheel onto the "axle". Opened the dishwasher, pulled out the bottom rack and snapped the wheel onto the rack. Done!
The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.
The stud assembly in the middle of each wheel no longer stayed inside the wheel.
Just pulled off the old wheel. I just had to push in the stud to the wheel and pushed it on to the rack of the dishwasher. Very easy repair! Only disappointing part was that it bothered me to have to purchase the stud with the wheel. I was told they only came as the set. I only needed to purchase that inside stud. My wheels were fine.
I had never done work on my dishwasher - I was a rookie in this area. Turns out the work itself was quite simple. Pulled the dishwasher out, turned it over, and was able to easily replace the motor and pump assembly. The drain tube was also an easy replace. A couple key notes:
1. I also purchased a new drain solenoid and impeller kit. Note that both of these items are already included in the Motor and Pump kit replacement. There is no need to by both, now I have extras.
2. The end of the drain tube has to be trimmed if you are routing the drain tube to an air gap mounted on your kitchen sink. You have to cut the large diameter end of the tube to get to the narrow portion that will fit on your air gap.
3. The first cycle you run with the new motor/pump assembly is noisy. When you first fire it up the components in the pump are all dry, and they squeal until the water gets to them. I initially thought I had done something wrong, but once the water started flowing all the peculiar sounds cleared up.
1. I removed the plastic stops from the ends of the upper rack slides. 2. Removed the upper rack. 3. Unclipped the old rollers from the rack. 4. Clipped the new rollers onto the rack. 5. Made a grunting noise so the wife could hear. 6. Walked away
I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.
Insufficient fill water, dishes not getting clean (valve diaphram had ruptured)
1. Remove lower cover skirt. 2. Shut of water at undersink valve. 3. Unplug power cord or turn off circuit breaker. 4. Disconnect water supply line from fill valve. 5. Unplug the electrical connector from the valve. 6. Remove the 2 valve mounting bracket screws. 7. With loose valve in hand, rotate to gain access to allow release of outlet hose clamp for hose removal. 8. Remove brass fitting from old valve and install on new valve. Use teflon tape on the pipe threads only.
Note: This procedure assumes replacement of both eyelet cables. It is recommended that both eyelet cables be replaced at the same time.
1. Using a Philips' head screwdriver, remove the four screws holding the lower front panel (below dishwasher door). 2. Remove the faulty eyelet cable(s) hooked into the springs at one end and the door hinges at the other. 3. Take the new eyelet cables and hook them onto the door hinge on either side. Ensure a secure fit. 4. Guide the eyelet cable around the spinwheel on one side and insert the hooks of the springs into the eyelets. 5. Pull on the springs and insert their hooks into the eyelets of the other cable, ensuring a secure fit. 6. Test the door by opening and closing it a few times to ensure the spring has tension. 7. Replace the lower front panel cover removed in step 1 with its screws.
Dishwasher leaks from bottom of door......when operated.
Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)
install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.
Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....
remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)
Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!
This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!