Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
ice maker kept on dripping water causing ice in the icee containergood compression to freeze in a block
ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.
The ring was cracked and it would not dispence ice.
I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.
Removed the screws that held the main ice bin and slid back the bin to leave space behind the auger to remove the broken ring. Replaced with new ring and replaced screws to hold ice bin back in place.
We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.
Before starting unplug the refrigerator 1) Remove the drip grate 2) Remove the 2 screws located at bottom of dispenser (they were located under the drip grate) 3) Remove dispenser trim plate by carefully disconnedting the touch pad wire. 4) Remove 2 screws on top right and left side of dispenser. 5) Remove 1 screw located in middle of dispenser (near the ice dam). 6) Remove Dispenser from refrigerator. 7) Completely clean the dispenser 8) Remove old Actuator Pad 9) Unscrew Limit Switch 10) Remove wire connections on limit switch. 11) Screw in new Limit Switch 12) Connect wires to limit switch (in same manner as they came off) 13) Install new Actuator Pad (make sure you align the "pusher" with the Limit switch). 14) Put the dispenser back into the refrigerator (Make sure you install the water line in its slot) 15) Install the 3 screws 16) Reconnect wire to trim plate. 17) Install 2 screws at bottom of dispenser 18) replace drip grate. 19) Plug in refrigerator 20) Enjoy water/ice dispenser that shuts off.
There was three screws to remove to unmout the ice maker, and unplug the wire harness,then two to remove to slip in new stripper. All took about 20 mins.
Refrigerator door would not self close. Had to physically close it.
Replacing the hinge pin itself is really easy. Most important is to brace the bottom of the door before replacing the pin, otherwise the door will drop as the bottom hinge must be removed to install the new pin.
A couple of short lengths of 2x4s used to brace the door bottom worked fine. With these in place the door did not drop down after removing the hinge. Replacement of the hinge and pin easy.
Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.
Pulled broken plastic end stop from door. Basket fits right into the two side holes and pulls down to lock. Relatively easy fix and replacing basket stop.
Make sure power is off- throw circuit breaker and check with tick tracer. remove spill tray by sliding it out. unscrew two torx at bottom of outer frame flip the frame up to get acces to disconnect wire harnes. unscrew 3 screws on each side and two on the top. gentle wiggle mechanism from the door. disconnect wire harness. take the unit to a good working surface like the kitchen table. Disconnect two scres holding wire limit switch in place. remove switch and disconnet two spade connectoed wires. connect spade wires to new limit swtich. screwm back in place. turn over the unit. remove the actuator pad (no tools required) it wraps around the unit and has little slots that hook over little tabs on the back edge of the unit. (tought ot describe in words but my 5 year old could probably do it)
First I removed the three screws in the top hinge that hold the upper right corner of the door to the body of the unit. Then I just lifted the door off of the refrigerator. I proped the door up just long enough to pull out the old pin (plastic) and put the new one in place. Next I picked up the door and set it on the new hinge, and last I put the three screws back into place. It has taken me about as long to type this out as it did to actually make the repair. The part was also very reasonably priced so I purchased two since this items has been replaced previously.
