GR2SHKXKQ00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Previous issue with this refrigerator and I figure after the Hot summer we've had in TX that it overworked itself this summer in the garage! Caught this one before all was lost as it started it's not cooling cycle on a Sunday. Ordered the identical Relay&Overload from Parts Select, 2 days later I'm back to chilling the beer again! Super service with diagrams and specs. Very glad parts select is around!

Removed the lower back panel (10 small screws)Found the condenser motor froze up and not moving air across the cooling coils.So I got a small table fan and set it behind the fridge and it kept the fridge cooling for 3 days till the new fan motor arrived. Removed 3 small screws holding the fan motor in the bracket and unpluged the wiring harness.Removed the fan from old motor and used it on the new motor.Replaced the fan in the bracket and plugged the wiring harness back in. Worked great. Very easy.Did not have to empty fridge because table fan kept coils cool. Ordering part was easy and shipping fast.Great job guys!!

Took out glass shelf to clean. Shelf exploded into a billion little pieces for no apparent reason. Received replacement shelf the next day (with the 3 - 5 day shipping). Cleaned glass, placed in ice box. Viola!

I removed the screw that held the control module in place, then unscrewed & unplugged the circuit board and plugged the new one in. At that point I realized that the mounting bosses on the new piece were a quarter inch longer than the old one and the screws were now too short. The old bosses couldn't be adapted without wrecking them. Luckily I found screws out in the garage that worked. The screws that came with the new piece were the same as the old ones. Also they were packed loose with the circuit board and one was stuck between the protective cover and the pins. Thankfully it fell out on its own before I plugged the refrigerator in.

I only needed to set the endcap and trim piec es in place, no tools involved

changed the starter connected to the compressor

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

its not that hard to replace. may need help to tilt fridge on one side so you can get to the bottom to remove wheel.Had to undo all four corner screws/bolts to loosen bottom section and slowly pull out base frame which holds the 4 wheels. this frame is also holding the compressor and fan so be careful.replace wheel and slowly put frame back to position and screw back bolts. pull back fridge to upright position. leave unplugged for a day or two to allow gas to come back to normal level as we had tilted it.plug it back and it works.
thanks
Anoop

Too simple! I removed the crisper bins, took off the broken crisper cover and replaced with new crisper cover then inserted the bins under it. Viola! Ordering a part from this site was so easy. My frig is 10 years old and I didn't think I would be able to find a part, but it did.

took out broken with no tools req replaced new with no tools req

I just removed the old seal cleaned the area and simply installed the new seal. The instructions were easy to follow and project was completed in less than 1 hour.

First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me access to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.

I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back portion to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.

Two bins were cracked. I simply unhooked the broken bins and put the new ones in their place.

I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it