GHDRE527H1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

replace lid switch

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

Removed front with putty knife to unlock hinge.removed and checked pump removed hose clamps with wrench and nut driver replaced hose reverse procedure

The video I watched said to remove front panel, control panel, and top panel. After I removed the front panel, I was able to remove the lid switch and splice the wires together and reinsert in the mounting without removing the other panels. Secured with wire tie and put front panel back in place. This did not, however fix the problem.

I removed the front cover on washer I tied wrapped one side of the belt to to the back pulley and placed the belt on the the motor pulley then placed the belt installer on pulley below belt with gloves on I started rotating the pulley in the back and when it started getting s little tight I moved pulley back and forth then started turning in clockwise direction again and belt went right on.i cut the tie wrap after making sure belt was secured and evenly on then turned pulley to make sure belt was secured removed belt installer and replaced front cover.i am a 57 yr old woman and did this job by myself.so easy when you have the belt installer also.

Someone did it for me.

It was hard for me. I'm a 54 year old woman. I tied it to the wheel with twine. It kept popping off, right it the time I would just about have it on. Several times !!!! I had no zip ties. Finally I tied the part of the craft stick on tightly. Put the belt on the motor rod and as much of the wheel as it would allow. Started turning slowly. There's really no room. I finally wiped it. There was one time that I sounded like the man off the movie Christmas Story. My youngest daughter is 13. She started laughing. It wasn't easy but I BLESS GOD for it. Thank all of you so much. Be safe and take care.

replaced broken straps all 4. washer not working ]. replaced lid switch with wire harness.replaced bad old belt.working fine now. my wife is very happy. thanks for your videos and how to do the job right.

This was easy and took maybe a half-hour. The harder part was pulling the front panel off (up) to access the insides. Simply snipped the wire to the old sensor and spliced the new wire and inserted the new sensor. Worked perfectly and saved me $400? on a new washer! (Cover panel is slightly bent, did not re-snap in, so it's loose; I don't care about the looks, so I will screw metal screws using a hinge to close it.)

Replaced the Dual Water Inlet Valve. Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one back on. the cold water started comming out like it should,it also seemed to have more pressure and filled faster. We have had the washer for over five years and it seemed that it took forever for it to fill when we did a load. So by replacing the valve it fixed the problem of no cold water comming out and the slowness of filling. It seems to be filling faster.

removed old dampening straps replaced with new ones a total of 4 straps, took about 10 min, works great again.very easy to do. thank you.

replaced pump to tub inlet hose.

I pulled the front panel off as described in the video on Partselect.coms video (very helpfull) and unpluged the pump, I was able to test the original pump and determine it to be good and ultimatly that was not the problem. However had it been it would have been a simple fix. returning the unused part was super simple and painfree!

I removed the supply hoses, removed the screws holding the sheet metal control console in place exposing the dual water inlet valve. Removed the two screws holding the valve in place, removed each wire from the old valve attaching it to the matching connector blade on the new valve. Using pliers loosened the spring clamp holding the output hose to the valve and reattached the hose to the new valve. Then screwed the new valve to the washer and reattached the supply hoses. After running a test for leaks and that the valve functioned properly, I screwed the sheet control console back in place.

One of the fastest repairs that I have performed. Took less than 15 minutes. Unhook wires, removed haoding screws, unclamped hoses. Reversed the process to install the new unit. Shipping was incredible. Ordered the part at 1400 on Thursday and had the part in hand Friday at 0900. One of the best on-line experiences that I have ever had. Thanks a bundle, Richard