GFS209-1L00 (GFS20901L00) Caloric Refrigerator - Instructions

I ordered the replacement parts on line and received it a few days later. Thought I'd wait till the weekend to install the new parts. I expected it to take longer so I waited. Boy was I wrong. The hardest part was unloading the top shelf of the freezer. And it took longer to go get the nutdriver. I should have put it in immediately. Thanks for the instructional video. Works like a dream NO LEAKS. Will use your services on other parts as needed. Don from Pittsubrgh, PA.

Followed video advice

just had to remove the fan motor the hard thing is getting down to it

Tried cleaning drain and defrosting and wire around heater element into drain line. Kept freezing up. Noticed I could not get the heater to come on ? Resistance through heater was 34 ohms. I knew thermostat was ok because temp in fridge and freezer ok. So the only things left were Bi-Metal and defrost timer. I cut wires from Bi-Metal and used water seal wire nut to install. I removed timer and thermostat tray from fridge area and removed defrost timer and installed new one and reinstalled tray. Instructions said to make sure timer not in defrost cycle, but did not say how to tell. So I finally moved the timer wheel on back of timer to a position that the old one had and reinstalled and compressor came on and started running. I checked the freezer compartment later that day and heater was on and ice melting and water in drain area.

Removed malfunctioning icemaker and discovered that inlet water line was frozen. Thawed line using hairdryer and problem resolved. Returned new icemaker to PartSelect they promptly credited my credit card account. Problem solved.

This problem can be caused by 3 different part failures. Timer, thermostat or heater. After contacting a service repair shop I was told that most often it is the thermostat. The cost of the repair would be at least $115. To much for an old refer. So I ordered the part from Partselect for $33. and put it in myself. Step1 cut the power to the refer. Step2 remove ice maker if you have one. Step3 remove base and back panels in the freezer. Step4 the coils were badly frozen so I used a hair dryer to thaw it out. Would have waited a long time for it to thaw out otherwise. Step5 The thermostat is clipped on to copper tubing next to the coils. Unclip it and cut the wires close to the thermostat. Strip the wires and wire nut the new thermostat. Clip it back on to the copper tubing. Put it all back together and start it up. It's over a week know and no problems. Note: We have whirlpool appliances that are over 16 years old. I have repaired the washer, oven, and now the refer with parts from Partselect. Good company. Always received the correct part within about 3 days from ordering. If you are able to do the work yourself you can save big bucks and keep your appliances running longer. Good Luck

I discovered that the water inlet was freezing, then the incoming water would run into the tray. I watched the video, then removed the ice maker. I discovered the the top two screwed just had to be loosened, not removed. I removed the bottom screw and move the ice maker to the side to disconnect the wiring harness. I found it to hard to disconnect. The pinch clips did not depress as they were supposed to, but the finally release. I did the replace without unplugging the refrigerator and it went fine. Took less than 15 minutes.

I removed and inspected the old unit and found the tray coating was flaking off. I ordered the new ice maker on line, One screw and rotate unit counter clockwise about 10 degrees unlocked it from the two snap in mounts. then unplugged the wire harness and it was free. Had to put the short wire harness on new unit, reverse removal steps and it is completed and working fine.

unpluged refrigerator. removed panel in front of fan. Removed the fan motor. Installed the new fan kit. Replaced the panel in front of fan. Pluged the refrigerator back in. The refrigerator runs a 100 percent better

The video of the repair is a helpful guide, but my refrigerator has the compressor very close to the condenser fan motor. With the compressor comes the copper tubing that is all in the way. I had to carefully bend them now and then to allow me to get my hands in position. The how to is easy, but the working with tools in cramped quarters was difficult. I think my Maytag side by side model makes for this job to be difficult, maybe yours may not be so bad. I took a couple of hours to complete. After the first hour, I covered the bare wires, and plugged the frig back in so it could do some cooling. I placed a small in front on the condenser to blow across it. Had a little break, then finished the job.

Based on comments I read at this web site, I first ordered the water valve; that did not fix the problem. Replacing the icemaker did fix the problem. It was easy to replace. Contrary to the instructional video, I couldn't simply tilt out the icemaker at the bottom after removing the lower screww; I had to loosed the two top screws as well. The leak was caused the coating on the icemaker being cracked and peeling.

I watched the video which gave me confidence that I could do the repair which I did in very little time. One thing to emphasize though: When you remove the vertical wire connector from the back of the freezer compartment, remember which color wire is on the top. I needed to watch the repair video a second time to be able to make that determination. Probably the repair video should have mentioned keeping track of that connector regarding the re-connection of it because it could also connect when turned 180 degrees.

I watched a youtube video and completed the repair in less than an hour from start to finish and save myself a service charge. It was fairly easy, the only problem was that it was a bottom freezer and getting to the ice maker was harder than if it was a side by side or top freezer.

I have an Amana freeze and I followed the procedure in the video. Which is very good! However on the Amana Model there two slight differences in the procedure that I felt I needed to do. The first one is, the condenser fan bracket is attached to the Freezer chassis with 4 screws, not three. The removal and installation of the back screw by the fan is a bear. I removed the other three and it allowed me to rotate the fan slightly to get more access to the fourth and did same on installation by just starting the 4th screw and then tightening it later. The second issue was my new fan hit the housing when I spun the fan. When I looked at the old one. It had a phenolic washer, between the fan and motor which spaces the fan out about a washer thickness from the motor. When I tried to remove the old one it broke in four pieces due to age. So, I made my own with a washer that I super glued to the motor housing after carefully centering it on and clearing the motor shaft . Seemed to work with out any more noise or balance issues...Thanks, your delivery was blindly fast and video was great!

I used the video on your website. It made me feel very satisfied that I was able to do it myself!