GFG471LVB2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

I left the old broken hinge in place, & put the new hinge on the left side.

Remove;
Bottom drawer- pull open and lift up slightly when fully open then pull the drawer the rest of the way out.
Unplug ignitor terminal- there is a small tang inside the terminal end that needed pressed out of the small hole of the ignitor, with a pick.
Oven racks.
Oven bottom- 2 long phillips screws at the back. lift the back up 1st then the front comes up and out.
Burner diffuser- 2 small phlilips at front (they only prevent the diffuser from sliding, they don't screw into anything). slide diffuser forward out of the notch then lift the front up. pull rear tabs out of the notches to completely remove.
Ignitor- two 8mm (5/16) bolts holding ignitor to burner. pull ignitor out of guide holes.
Reverse to install new ignitor.

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

the door came apart fairly easy getting it all back together was another story lining up glass and panels that have already been heated was fun but its back together and working fine.... It should be noted that I have a warranty for the stove but the hoops I had to jump thru and the time it would take for the tech to come it was easier to do it myself!!

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one

I ordered the exact replacement igniter through the website. I removed the oven bottom plate and the flame spreader to gain access to the igniter/burner assembly. I removed the burner from the oven to access the mounting bolts for the igniter. I replaced the assembly into the oven and reconnected the igniter wire and it was set!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

removed 3 screws holding the strip and replaced with new strip

By hand screwdriver

Removed the oven door listened to a video/You tube and the rest was easy.When you remove the door panels make sure all the parts are assembled correctly.

REMOVE BOTTOM OVEN PAN. REMOVE GAS DEFLECTOR. REMOVE GAS TUBE. UNPLUG WIRE. REMOVE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS ON IGNITER. REPLACE IGNITER AND REATTACH IGNITER SCREWS. RE-INSERT IGNITER PLUG. REPLACE GAS TUBE AND DEFLECTOR. REPLACE OVEN BOTOOM PAN.