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Was Not Making Ice Or Getting Water
Three easy steps, take off old part then all you do is tighten nut on one end of part and then just push other end of pipe down in slot. Did half to remove nut off the top end of tube very simple to do
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
Slides were broken on the original, needed to replace the whole cover.
We removed the cover, removed the glass, then the hard part was removing the old center bracket that supports the glass. Once we located the lever that releases one end to slide to the side, we struggled to loosen it completely. The we had to pry the round end off. It was easy to put onto the new cover. We had to take the rubber trim off the old and put it onto the new, that was easy. The sliders for the humidity control were a problem. I broke one,and the other one was bent but still worked.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Removed old valve easily. New WR57XI0033 valve is designed to mount on lower left, but on mine it has to mount on lower right. Had to drill two 1/32 holes in lower rail to mount the new valve.
Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.
The control board generated clicking noise. Temperature display wrong values.
On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay. The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord, I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor. Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
removed back cover--disconnect water supply-- removed screw holding vave and unplugged the electric from the valve-- disconncect waterline to the icemaker. reverse the to put on new part.
My Son removed two screws, electric plug and two (2) compresion nuts. He had to bend the bracket to fit, then replace it, in reverse order except the filler tube on the new valve was of a "stabb-in" type. Job was a piece of cake and this small project, solved all our problems with the Ice maker.
1st - checked water supply - old valve in water line was closed with sediment. 2nd - replaced water line valve and reconnected copper tubing about 1 hour 3rd. removed single outlet valve and installed the new part - about 15 minutes
Everything went well and was very easy. Unfortunately, the ice maker still does not work. Still trying to understand what is wrong.
valve wouldn't allow enough water to fill ice maker.
Started with a visual inspection. Turned off water. Removed old valve. Bent bracket to facilitate installation. Installed. Hooked up. Tested. Works as advertised.....
