GDG27CD Maytag Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the dryer. Then I removed the two phillips head sheet metal screws near the bottom of the front panel at either side, swung the panel out from the bottom until it unhinged at the top for removal. I disconnected the wire to the door switch and placed the front panel out of the way. Next I unbolted the top from the side panels by removing the single bolt at the front top of each side panel. This allows the Top panel of the dryer to be raised enough to remove the drum. I slipped the drive belt off the back of the drum, lifted the top a few inches and removed the drum. Next I removed the face plate of the blower channel to get at the squirrel cage blower and disconnect it from the motor by removing the outer snap ring from the motor shaft and then used pliers to remove the spring clip from the hub of the blower cage allowing it to slide off the shaft. There was a second snap ring to remove behind the hub. With the blower off the 3 screws holding the blower channel to the motor mount were accessable and able to be removed along with a couple of scews holding the air channel to the dryer base allowing the whole assembly to be moved out of the way to get at the motor. Two more screws at the motor base were removed to free the motor. Three color coded wires were unclipped from the motor and it was out after removing the drive belt from the pulley. Getting the pulley off the old motor after 29 years of service proved to be the most difficult part of the repair. Had to heat the pulley with a propane torch until the glue holding the allen head set screw decomposed enough to allow me to break the set screw loose. Releasing the spring clips holding motor to frame was easy using a large screwdriver to push down in the end recess of the clip while prying against the frame. Reassembly took less than an hour. The color coded dots on the electrical connector block were identical to the original motor making the electrical reconnection a snap (These dots were clearly seen in the photos of motor on the PartSelect website so I knew I had the right motor). The drive belt reinstallation was a little tricky as you have to spool the belt correctly around the pulley then put the drum back in 3/4 of the way and start the belt on the back of the drum and work it forward about 5 inches to its running position. Rest was easy, no parts left over and it works like new again.

Frist I removed the front cover panel via removing 2 screws. Second I disconnected the door switch wires. Third I removed the 4 screws that hold the drum onto the rollers and guides that allows access to the blower wheel assembly cover. Fourth I remover the blower wheel assembly cover to gain access to the blower wheel. Fifth using the retaining removal tool removed the retaining ring from the shaft then removed the blower wheel using plyers. Then reassembled all of the parts and enjoy a quiet dryer again.

Thank you parts select!!!

The ignitor is easy to determine if it is defective. When you start the dryer and the ignitor does not glow , it is bad.
The replacement involves unpluging the dryer, opening the control access door ,the removal of one screw, unplug the bad ignitor, plug in the new ignitor, reinstall the one retaining screw, plug the dryer back in, check for proper opperation of the ignitor, and close the close the control access door.
Very easy

Piece of cake. Used flat screwdriver to pry out female part on cabinet side, same with the male part on door. Every new replacement part was tight and operated like new. Thanks Part Select, you'll be forever on my list of online parts buying.

First I removed the front panel on the dryer. While the dyer was running, I noticed the igniter did not turn its normal amber color and ignite the gas supply. I then disconnected the wire to the igniter and removed the screw holding the igniter in place. Next I replaced the igniter, tightened the screw and reconnected the wire. Finally, I replaced the front panel. This is a relatively simple repair.

Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.

How to disassemble the dryer has been covered in past repair stories. I will add a make shift repair that will get you up and running until you get your replacement blower wheel. We repair gas dryers for a living and this repair works and some machines are still running for two years. Remove the blower wheel. Cut a piece of plumber strap of similar sized metal to about 3/16" x 1/2". Hold it with vise grips and then heat it with a torch. When it is hot melt it into the hole in the blower wheel. This will give you a flat spot in the shaft hole that will keep the blower from spinning on the motor shaft. Some trial and error fitting is involved. If you do it carefully the blower wheel will fit very nicely and will not vibrate or make noise.

The repair was very simple. I took off the two screws on the fron of the dryer to remove the front panel which gained me access to the drum. I used a nut driver to remove the two screws that held the orignal short baffle and screwed in the new short baffle. Very simple very quick. The amazing thing with this problem is that I ordered the part on Thursday and recieved it on the very next day!!!!!!

First I unplugged the dryer. I shut off the gas line to the dryer. I opened the access door on the lower front of the dryer. I illuminated the interior of the dryer with a small flashlight that was mounted on two legs with magnets on the end to allow the light to be specifically directed. I took few digital pictures of the electrical connections to the dryer gas valve and the various sensors attached to the unit. I shut off the gas line valve to which the dryer gas valve was attached. I removed the two screws holding the dryer gas valve an lifted the unit out of the dryer. I vacuumed the inside of the dryer with an electric vacuum and also vacuumed the lint and dust off the gas valve I took out of the dryer. The flat style igniter was mounted on the front of the gas value. I removed two screws and took off the old flat style igniter. I reattached the new flat style igniter (carefully holding it by the ceramic mounting area to avoid breaking the igniter itself). I reinserted the gas valve into the dryer and reattached the two screws holding the gas valve into the dryer. I reattached the gas valve to the gas line in the dryer. I reattached the electrical connectors to the gas line and the sensors in the dryer. I turned the gas line in the house to the dryer back on. I plugged in the dryer and started it. No ignition.! I unplugged the dryer and reached in through the access door. I angled the flashlight to each of the sensors attached to the gas valve and the dryer electrical harness and pushed each one to make sure the electrical contacts were solid. When I checked the flame sensor ( a little box with a window mounted over a rectangle cut in the wall of the cylinder in which the flame burns when the gas is shooting out of the valve) the lower wire was unattached to the sensor. (Because the sensor sits on the side of the cylinder pointing towards the interior of the dryer its connections at the sensor was not visible. I bought a new flame sensor. I detached the old flame sensor from its connector, removed the screw mounting it to the cylinder and lifted it out of the tab holding it to the cylinder. I installed the new flame sensor by putting its tab in the slot for the tab in the cylinder and reattached the screw holding the flame sensor to the cylinder. I reconnected the electrical connection from the flame sensor to the dryer electrical harness. I plugged in the dryer. I turned the dryer on and got ignition of the dryer heater flame. Repair complete!

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

ordered new filter,,,,

The difficult part was to find what component was bad. Maytag does not sell the manual for this machine any more. We could not figure out what the problem was until we decided to check the voltage on the board and compare it to a second machine that we have. The second machine showed different readings so we decided to compare voltages on the transformer (main) that is at the bottom of the machine. There is a Primary (110 volts) and two secondaries; one which output is about 26 VAC and the other is above 10 VAC. The bad transformer had no output in one of the secondaries. Replacing the transformer was pretty simple. Make sure to disconnect the machine please before doing the repair.