GAFZ21XXRK01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

After watching the video it was a snap. Defrosting the freezer took the longest time. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. Once the freezer compartment was clear of ice the removal and installation were a step by step procedure which the video showed in detail. It's been about a week since I installed the bimetal defrost thermostat and it seems to be working like new. Sure glad I researched this problem on the internet instead of calling a very expensive repairman! Thanks partselect. Com!!!

I needed an extra shelf bin for the door. I ordered from PartSelect, and received it within the week. It's perfect. Thank you. Now I have more space to store food.

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

UN plugged refrigerator,waited 24 hours to let defrost,removed panels,cut out old Bi metal Defrost thermostat,wired in new thermostat,reassembled freezer,plug back in,working great

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

followed the video instruction from part select web site

poured boiling hot water into drain; removed most ice with hair dryer. Clips(2) positions the defrost tray & drain under the freezer condenser. A "home-made" coil of 18g copper wire inserted into the drain hole, & secured to the defrost heater further prevents the drain from iceing shut!

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Looked up the refrigerator model number, found parts break down and ordered wheel assy...thought it was the wrong but wheel size was right...read the instructions (good thing) and found out you had to slide entire bottom panel out 1/2 inch to access a hidden pin...did as the instructions said, slid out the bottom panel, found pin as advertised, removed pin, broken part fell out, replaced the wheel assembly, repinned, slid the bottom panel in (a bit more harder than getting it out), replaced all screws and was completed in about 40 -50 minutes. Good thing it came with instructions!!

This problem can be caused by 3 different part failures. Timer, thermostat or heater. After contacting a service repair shop I was told that most often it is the thermostat. The cost of the repair would be at least $115. To much for an old refer. So I ordered the part from Partselect for $33. and put it in myself. Step1 cut the power to the refer. Step2 remove ice maker if you have one. Step3 remove base and back panels in the freezer. Step4 the coils were badly frozen so I used a hair dryer to thaw it out. Would have waited a long time for it to thaw out otherwise. Step5 The thermostat is clipped on to copper tubing next to the coils. Unclip it and cut the wires close to the thermostat. Strip the wires and wire nut the new thermostat. Clip it back on to the copper tubing. Put it all back together and start it up. It's over a week know and no problems. Note: We have whirlpool appliances that are over 16 years old. I have repaired the washer, oven, and now the refer with parts from Partselect. Good company. Always received the correct part within about 3 days from ordering. If you are able to do the work yourself you can save big bucks and keep your appliances running longer. Good Luck