FWT647GHS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

removed top cover to access valve dissconnected hoses and wires then unscrewed valve and replaced

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.

Remove front panel to expose shocks. It took some time to remove the old shocks, both were broken. The pins were somewhat difficult to reach and remove, especially the one on right for it was shoved up against the electric wiring box. We ended up putting that pin in backwards for the new shock because it was impossible to reach from rear. Putting the new shocks was easy it was removing the old ones that took most of the time. The washing machine is working perfectly now.

Watched a u tube video and did it myself and I'm a 58 year old woman who has never worked on a washer before!

Very basic replacement- 2 screws in and out. The part did not come with screws to be sure to save them if you remove the broken part ahead of time to make the process smoother.

I looked up the repair on You Tube and it looked easy! Take off the top of the machine (unplug and disconnect water first), 2 wire connections and 2 screws to mount. The only problem I had was screwing the mounting plate on the machine. It needed some help enlarging the hole a tad, I used an awl. Reconnect the water and plug in.This Granny rocks!

Pulled the locking pins out, replaced the shock absorbers and re-installed the locking pins. I used Channel Lock pliers to remove and replace the locking pins. i used a deep socket to hold down the tab on the locking pins so they could be pushed out. The new shock absorbers came with installation instructions.

I removed 2 screws from the the top back of top. Removed the cover. Removed the 2 screws holding the door lock assembly.Removed the door lock assembly, disconnected the 3 wiring harnesses. Connected the wiring harnesses to the new door lock switch assembly. Installed the new unit in the door lock, reinstalled the top.Done.

The instructions that come with parts say to pull pins out with pliers. not much room to do that. I used hammers and punches where I had access and prybars nail puller an hammer to offset where the water outlet was in the way. I used a short handle hammer to install three of the pins. The third I used a prybar and spacer blocks.

Removed the 4 screws holding the top on. Pulled top forward to release front catches and stood top up out of way. Removed 2 screws holding door lock. Could not unplug wire plugs from door lock because wires too tight. Removed 2 screws holding lower front panel and removed panel. Pulled door lock down and unplugged old lock and plugged in new lock. It was easier to position door lock to reinstall screws by working from top, so top removal wasn't a total waste of time. Reinstalled front panel and top. Machine works.

we took the hoses off then unscrewed the bracket that was connected to the part and then once out we put bracket onto the new part and screwed it back to the washer connected the hose back and WOW the water was flowing

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

The video was most helpful, and the left shock replacement went as shown. The sucker punch was getting to the right shock - much harder.
First notice video has washer on a stand. How nice to have had it up on a table. LOL As it was I tilted the machine back with a 6 inch block under the front. Still a bear to get to the shock, but w/ patience, doable even though you are flat out on the floor.
The old shocks were so bad that the pistons fell out once it was removed.
It takes some strength to get the pins through the new shocks, and as I have a weak left hand I had to resort to using a C-clamp to help. If I could have gotten my right hand in there I may not have needed it. Right hand did have to hold the clamp as it had to just catch the side of the pin hole since the pin is pointed and sticks out past the mounting bracket when seated.
I also ordered a spring but they both were still good.

After not being able to get the proper 10 foot hose, and having to splice two drain hoses together....turned out it was not the drain hose after all, but the pump. Some sort of "baffle" in the drain hose, where the rubber connector at the pump end and the corrugated hose joins, was blocking the water I thought. It may have been since a spliced the new hose in at that end. However, I think it was the pump.

The pump was no problem, 2 screws, 2 hose clamps and 1 wire loom to change. All easy the shock absorbers were back mid washer the left was as the on line instruction stated but the right shock the instructions stated thatyou need the remove the air gap hose but you still could not even get a tool back to get the upper shock pin out much less put it back in. I ended up removing the pump intake boot off to gain acess to the area it only took one more hose clamp. This worked out well as the boot has a built in well to catch items left in pockets. This was emptied while it was out. All in all I was pleased