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old valve leaked
I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape. 1. Shut off water supply. 2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.) 3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.) 4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve. 5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid. 6. Remounted assembly to the frame. 7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply) (8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter. (9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)
It would sometimes work, which led me to believe it was a switch. Looked on line and found the mail switch to go on was in the latch. I took it apart, 6 screws, wiggled the switch and it went on. So I found the door switch to be bad. It was very simple to change the switch.
After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.
Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.
With an explosive bang, the spring on one side of the dishwasher door broke. The door weighed like a million pounds and was difficult to open and close.
I found the parts needed on Part Select and read comments by users. I took the suggestion to buy both springs at the same time and the door linkages too. Although they were pricey, the parts arrived in a few days and were absolutely perfect. To my suprise and delight, the entire fix for the broken spring and link and the opposite spring and link were easily accomplished in less than 10 minutes. The links just hook directly onto a small hook on the door and the springs have specially bent ends that fid the linkage and then the adjustable length holes on the door. It made me feel quite manly for about fifteen minutes as I made everyone in the house open and close the dishwasher door several times.
The spray arm comes off into 3 parts but is really only supposed to be one. I removed the nut from the old assembly and attempted to place the new assembly on by hand. The new nut seemed to be slightly smaller than the original so it would not attach to the dishwasher. Using a kitchen knife, I removed the new nut from the arm unit and attached the new arm to the original nut and it went back on easily. The connection of the new arm to the new nut was 3 tabs that needed to be depressed with the knife and was a different conection method than the assembly that kept coming off in the wash cycle. The replacement part had a much better design than the original.
Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pulled out about 1 foot. Took bottom plate off of dishwasher. Undid clamp on hose of discharge of inlet water valve and removed hose. Shut off water to water inlet valve and removed. Took wiring clip off of water inlet valve. Removed 2 screws holding water inlet valve in place. Installed new water inlet valve in reverse order.
Discovered upper wash arm had come off. It looked like it was repairable, but the bushing/clip holding the arm came off after one wash. Looked on line and reviewed part and saw it was a one piece assembly from photos. Removed old assembly by unscrewing from top of washer and screwed new assembly in place.
Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.
I was able to pull out the top basket were the glasses are put then I lined up the back and the center plastic clip an slid on the center spray arm. It took about 2 miniutes