FEF336FMC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

After receiving the parts in only two days, I first turned off the circuit breaker. Then I pulled the stove out from the wall. I used the nutdriver to remove the upper rear panel. Using the screw driver I removed the defective clock timer and used a pocket knife to carefully remove the clock timer face. I positioned the clock timer face on the new clock timer and installed same in the stove panel. (I had made a list of the wires and their colors to insure the proper placement on the new clock timer). Installed the four screws and on to the burner switch. Two front panel screws removed and the defective burner switch was out. Installed the new burner switch, connected the wires, installed the two screws, pushed on the knob and I was ready to go. Re-installed the reap panel, pushed stove back in, turned on the circuit breaker and tested the burner and oven. All worked correctly. A very easy repair!

removed the screws holding the front part of the door and from there worked my way, untill the third glass.
It took a couple hours, my first time,. Overall easy,

Removed the backing, removed the old part and disconnected the wires (after taking a quick photo so we knew where to reconnect them on the new part). Removed clock/timer facing and placed on new part. Reconnected the wires to the new part and screwed it back in. Oven now works great without spending the $300 we were quoted by the repair man!!

Originally I had anticipated a major problem requiring the removal of the back of the range and perhaps the necessity of employing the services of a repairman ($$!). Fortunately I waited for the arrival of the replacement element, which, upon inspection, was not configured to go through to the back of the range. What a relief!

The hardest part of the repair was finding the correct nutdriver (5/16"). Removal of the damaged element was simply backing out the two retaining screws inside the oven and pulling the element out far enough to expose the clips to the wire. Pulling them apart was easy enough, and then the element I disposed of immediately.

Reverse of removal of the old element was the installation of the new: Reconnect the clips to the element, push the wires back into the insulation, re-inserting the two retaining screws and tightening them gently.

The final step was to plug the range 220 cord into the outlet. Testing whether the element was functional was a breeze; the oven and the range elements worked perfectly.

Turn power off to the stove! Opened the oven door, removed 3 screws holding the top down. Lift the top up. (Take a picture first of where exactly the wires go and where the prongs go) I unplugged the 4 wires from the element. Use a screwdriver and pry the prongs through the metal brace. Remove the prongs from the old element because they are a separate part and don't come with a new element. If you wish to continue to use the stove, tape the ends of the wires up, because they will be hot when you turn any other burner on.

My husband followed the video instructions and it was easy to fix.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Turned off power to stove;removed baking racks , loosened Holden screws to pushon bake element removed old bake element,installed new pushon bake element.

Pulled stove away from wall and unplug .Removed grates for better access. Unscewed element scews removed element & tested for continuity.there was none element is bad . Replaced with new one . Time about 20 minutes.

Removed the back panel, disconnected the terminals and removed the old one and installed the new one.

Watched the video