FA4300 Amana Washer - Instructions

Followed web instructions.

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

I checked the inlet hoses for hard water build up and noted that this was not a problem. Then checked the hose from the inlet valve to the washer drum and determined that it was clear so I knew the problem was a faulty inlet valve. After receiving my replacement valve, I removed the old valve by removing the hot and cold water hoses and unscrewing two screws securing the inlet valve and lifting the inlet valve out the metal holding bracket. This gave me complete access to the inlet valve allowing me to remove the hose clamp and hose to the washing machine drum. The new inlet valve was an exact match so I removed the four electrical wires one by one while putting them back on the new inlet valve to insure correct electrical connections. I added a piece of one half inch plastic tubing provided with the new inlet valve on the outlet nipple of the new inlet valve to prevent leaking. I then put the new inlet valve back into the holding bracket and screwed it down. I replaced the hot and cold hoses to the new inlet valve carefully so as not to cross thread the plastic connection on the new inlet valve. After turning the water back on, I checked for leaks and plugged the washing machine back on to test it with a washing cycle.

Exactly as the video showed. This was a very simple repair. The only extra thing I did was to replace the mesh screen/gasket at the hose ends. They were plugged with crud. PartSelect saved me from buying a new washing machine. Yay!

I took the hot and cold water hoses off with pliers.and then I took the one screw out towards the top of the water inlet valve plate.disconnected 4 wires,there is a small clamp on the small hose on the valve you have to remove.and last there is a cluster of wires that has to be removed from a bracket and (it is important to put these cluster of wires back in place otherwise they will wear a bare spot in them.)

My experience with my repair is as follows:
After determining the "hot water" solenoid was weak and that a new fill valve was needed, I placed my order with PartSelect on Thursday and to my suprise, had it in my hand Friday evening (no special shipping). WOW talk about fast! But unfortunately the part was broken.
Called PartSelect back Saturday morn to explain my problem and was told that I would be credited for the broken part and that a replacement would be sent ASAP probably arriving on Wednesday. Again to my suprise, the part arrived on Tuesday morning.
Hats off to you guys for great service, prices and no hassles.

Dennis Fleming
North Billerica, MA

pulled the front panel first, then lifted the top(2bolts in each).
Then unhooked water and unbolted the water inlet valve from the back left corner behind the tub.four wires are connected Pay attenion to where they go, for easy reinstallation.NOTE: watch the clips in the front of the washer they flew off and it took half an hour on the internet finding out how they went back on.

Removed the front of the washing machine. Located & removed the water inlet valve from it's mounting on the back
inside face of machine. Replaced water valve, & restarted machine. Like new again!

Can't say enough about the speed of parts delivery & professionalism and accuracy recieved from the team at Parts Select. Thanx again,

Greg W.

took hose off then took three 5/16 screws then clamp off reversed order to put back on check for leaks ok

1. Identify washer model and symptom
2. review page of suggested part; view installation video
3. order part with standard shipping
4. receive part next day and install just as the video showed

Entire job from going to PartSelect website to completion took less than 24 hours. Hardest part was moving the washing machine. Machine is nineteen years old and now works perfectly. Unmatched service.

I had taken the washer out and replaced both hoses, and the leak stopped for a load or two. I then replaced the water inlet valve, because I could see that the plastic threads were pretty bad. The repair is very simple on this model. There is no need to open the cabinet at all, the entire job is done on the back. I used a socket and the stubby driver for the mounting screws and switched to a screwdriver tip and opened the clamp on the hose leading to the air gap assembly. The entire operation took about five minutes. The repair worked for two or three loads.

The water leak came back, so after some searching I finally figured out how to open the cabinet, and that took longer than actually doing it. The front opens with two big screws located on the front about 4" above the floor, just in the corner of the indentation on the panel.

With the top tipped up (tape the lid!) out of the way, the leak proved to be coming out of the air gap assembly. There is an injector nozzle and a rubber sleeve that goes over it. They fit in the large black hose. I easily opened the hose clamp, removed the old parts, put in the new one. The rubber sleeve has a cover that goes over the edge of the plastic injection nozzle. You have to make sure it is entirely and smoothly inserted. Easy. Then insert it all the way to the shoulder of the end of the hose with that wide end facing into the hose and the other end open. Slip the open end through the bracket and into the other hose. Tighten all your clamps, and carefully pressure test. Do not touch any metal parts if there is water spewing. Just turn it off, pull the plug, and fix the problem. In my case, it worked perfectly, and I turned it off, replaced the front and the job was done.

Despite the great advice I got here, I ended up getting the nozzle parts in town. I had to go to an appliance parts outlet rather than a place like Home Depot, but it was quick and no shipping. Still, I would not have tried this without the great advice and fast service here.

I watched a sample repair on YouTube and read the instructions that came with the part. All went as planned/described.

Removed old part, installed new part. tested machine. worked fine.

Disconnected the hot/cold water hoses. Removed screw that holds water valve in place. Removed two screws that hold valve to metal plate. Disconnected wire terminals from old valve and installed on new valve on the same spades. Disconnected water discharge line by loosing screw that hold line on valve, reattach to new valve. Removed old valve from plate, installed new one with the two screws to plate, then put in place and put in screw that hold valve in back of washer. Connected hot/cold hoses and fired it up and noisy water eliminated. About 30 minutes and back in service which made the wife happy that her washer was quite again. Thanks!

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.