F45WP22ED0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I had already removed the ice maker by loosening the two screws with a 1/4" nut driver, in order to compare the design and style to the intended replacement for size and critical measurements. The replacement was almost identical. The wiring harness was 2-3" longer than the original, but after snaping the wire plugs together I simply curved the wire up and to the left to be out of the way. The hanging brackets are slotted and it was easiest to slip the back hanger over the head of the screw and let it slip down, then the front hanger was already to line up even though you can't see the screw with the ice maker in the way. I had to transfer an L-shaped metal bracket to the bottom side, matching the old assembly, and adjusting it to hold the bottom side away from the freezer compartment a little so it would hang level and secure. You have to snug the two screws with a screw driver or 1/4" nut driver by feel, since you can't see them with the icemaker in place. It took about 10 minutes to take out the old and another 10 to put in the new. We now have a full bin of ice, and the old plastic trays have been retired. I should have done this a year ago.

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.

Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.

Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.

Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.

Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.

Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.

The plastic slides on the Upper and Lower Drawers were broken from years of abuse sliding the drawers in and out. The replacement of the plastic drawers required removing the glass front pieces using a screwdriver and gently seperating the plastic drawer from the front panel from under the assembly. The front panel easily slide out within the drawer runners. Simply slide the front on the new drawer and insert back into the refrig. That simple.

pulled tank out and cut two plastic lines

I ordered a defrost timer and defrost thermostat from partselect.com. Parts arrived in 2 days (earlier than expected). Unplugged appliance, removed bottom cover, unscrewed 2 screws holding timer in place, unplugged timer and replaced with new part. Fastened back into place. Next removed back cover of freezer (5 screws using nut driver). Disconnected old thermostat and removed. Wires already had connectors installed. cut off the connectors with some wire left on and reconnected them to the new thermostat with the included blue wire crimps. Tried to use the shrink tube to insulate but couldn't get it snug enough. Just used electrical tape instead. Reinstalled thermostat. Reassembled cover. Plugged in and fridge and freezer are working fine again. Thanks partselect.com.

unplug it, pulled compressor start relay,which i thing it was the problem, but i replace bolt, very easy.

Used exploded parts view to locate part. Removed old part and replaced with new defrost timer. Piece of cake.

You have to blindly unscrew the two screws along the side of the ice maker. Once that is done simply remove the ice maker to the side to gain access to the electrical plug. Undo the plug and remove the ice maker completely. Install the adapter on the new ice maker and install it in much the same way you removed the old. I started the (2) 1/4" screws before installing the new ice maker to make it easier to hang. Pay careful attention to the wire harness and dress it out of the way. Finally tighten the two screws and make sure the bail wire is down to begin ice making once again.

- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig
- Disconnected elect wires
- Reconnected elect wires to new light socket
- Snapped new socket in place
- Done in less than 2 min.

I purchased the replacement part (no instructions sheet) from another company, not this one, that cost 2X's a much as this company. So I sent it back and ordered from this company. Got it faster then the post office sends us the stamps we order by internet and this ice maker had instructions.
Our's is a side by side refrig, so working space is limited but do-able. The old ice maker has made a clicking noise for years while trying to push the cubes out of the tray. They would get stuck and refreeze, sticking half way out of the tray.
I loosened the 2 screws with a socket driver (which are difficult to see), raised the unit up and off the screws. Unplugged the power & out it came. Removed the bracket on the side as instructed to attach to the new ice maker and in the trash the ol' ice maker went. Set the new ice maker on the screws, plugged in the power, tightened the screws and walla. A quiet ice maker. In fact, it would startle us the first day as we didn't hear the clicking noise indicating it was stuck. All of a sudden the cubes just dropped into the container. Alright! Don't know why I didn't do this years ago.

Noticed no cool air was coming from the vent on the refrigerator side. After cleaning out the freezer side, I noticed that the air intake at the bottom of the freezer was frosted over.I removed the metal panel and discovered the coils were completely frosted over so I found the defrost timer located at the bottom left corner of the refrigerator. took a screwdriver and turned it very slowly to force a defrost. i watched the coils for awhile and noticed that the heat element would never deice. so I thought it may be the thermostat clamped to the top of the coil might be bad. I unplugged the thermostat and plugged the heat element coil directly to wires feeding to the thermostat. On my refrigerator the wire connectors will allow to bypass thermostat. After waiting twenty minutes, I forced another defrost cycle with the timer and noticed the heat element would still not defrost. So i unplugged the heat element and took a test meter and checked the wire connectors and found one twenty volt at the connectors. So, therefore, I determined it must be the heat element itself. Even though they rarely give trouble. I found the service diagram on the back of the refrigerator in a plastic pouch, and it said the ohm resistance should be twenty two. My element read 145 so that also pointed to a bad heat element. I took the screw out that holds the coil in, lifted it about two inches, and pulled the bottom of the coil out just enough to remove the heat element from the coil and discovered it had a crack in it. It must have been a Monday at the factory, because the heat element looked like it had been warped while being installed.I ordered a replacement element and installed it. I works as good as new. I do electrical work for a living, so this was pretty easy for me to figure out.

I want to first say that before I ordered this part from "Part Select" I first went and talked with a local appliance repair shop. They quoted me a $120 charge to come out and check the problem. Then $30 and hour service fee, plus parts. He provided me a quote of about $250 for the job.
I found this part easily on the web site $77. It was very easy to instal. The only problem I had was the fact that in the side by side it was very difficult for me to get two hands inside the freezer to install it. (I have wide shoulders). Two screws loosened, no need to remove them. Just life the entire unit straight up. Unplug wire harness. Then just reverse order. Could not be easier. If you can change a light bulb you can do this.

Shut off water/power - pulled tray -loosened two screws holding ice maker - lifted it up and off - unhooked power connection installed new maker in reverse of above - power supply line was much to long but just pushed it under the ice tray ( away from the maker ) prior to ordering looked at comments from others regarding installation

Removing the old unit was easy enough, just loosened two screws that attach unit to side of freezer and disconnected the wiring harness. But the new unit never goes in quite as easily because it's always just a little different from the original. In this case, the wiring ended up being about six inches longer and the excess had to be stuffed behind a shield at the rear of the unit. Theoretically, the wire could have been pushed back through the opening, but it got jammed and wouldn't go. I had to remove side rails and pry the shield forward in order to get the wiring back out of the way. The unit is a narrow side by side, so there wasn't a lot of room to move around. But it wasn't difficult, just tedious. I had to make sure the wiring did not come into contact with the heating element at the bottom of the icemaker. Once installed it worked great.