Turned off the water. Removed the maintenance cover plate on the back of the refrigerator and disconnected the tubing. Removed the tubing cover plate on back of refrigerator. Removed two screws from filter hosing mount on the inside of the refrigerator and pulled the old tubing out. Simply inserted the new tubing and mounted the housing and reconnected the tubing using plumber’s pipe compound. Then re-installed the cover plates on the back of the refrigerator, installed the filter and turned on the water. It was a very easy install.
A piece of the crusher cover broke off into the ice bin
I removed the ice bin, removed the metal rod off the bottom, unscrewed all screws holding things together and then carefully pried the crusher assembly out of the ice bin. I made the mistake of doing it when the bin was still frozen and ended up cracking it where the "clips" from the crusher are inserted. It was much easier after the bin warmed up.
after changing the water filter and having no improvement. I went to the next part of the system. Turned off the water supply. I removed the bottom cover in the back of the refrigerator. unscrewed the nuts on the water supply hose from the main supply and the one going back into the fridge. moved to the inside of fridge and unscrewed two screws holding the filter mount and pulled the tubing through. Reversed my steps and the water flow was great . Thanks
I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are excellent!
Flapper not sealing. Frost buildup on inside of freezer door
Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved
After mopping up the floor - the whole freezer that was iced up melted - that's how I found out about the problem...
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
The rubber ice deflector fell off becasue the funnel failed
After removing the front cover to the control panel, I removed the 3 connectors. Then I removed the 4 screws and pulled out the assembly with the funnel.
The I had to lift the plastic tabs on the left and right to release the funnel. Reinstalling the funnel was a little tricker, trying to get the two plastic tabs, the spring and the tab that works the switch all in place at the same time. Then I installed the rubber deflector onto the funnel (the original problem.)
Finally reinsert the assembly, install the 4 screws, attach the 3 connectors, slide the panel back into place starting at the top and then the bottom
Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!
So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).
Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).
EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!
Ice auger was broke and ice was freezing in the recess door
all parts worked and were easy to install. probably saved me from having to buy a new fridge. ice maker is working fine and recess door flap is closing correctly. very satisfied.
when dispensing ice the flap door would not open properly and was open most of the time causing the door to ice up...cause solenoid was rusted badly
I removed the screws for the inner door and removed inner lining. Then took out the ice dispenser in the door. Took off control panel on the front of the ice panel. Removed the rusted parts and put in new parts. Put all parts back the way it came apart. In retrospect.... I could have possibly replaced the parts from the front panel but by taking apart the door...I had to thaw out the inner panel and insulation with in the door.