EL4030VW0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

I assumed a fuse was bad, although there were 3 possible fuses that might have caused the problem. I tested the Thermal Fuse #PS345113 and it was shot...the others were ok. I ordered a new fuse and everything works fine. The timer was not working on only the heated cycles but the new fuse fixed that as well. This took a bit longer than it should have because it included a lot of cleanup and moving an adjacent washing machine as well.

went online to whirlpool typed in my problem and. was directed me to Partselect which said it was thermal fuse and had picture where it was located and how to replace,easy as that.thank you PartSelect.Tim

First I watched Partselect's wonderful videos on what could cause the dryer from having to use multiple cycles to dry and the parts involved. I then took the back of the dryer off and tested all three parts with a multi-meter to determine which part had no resistance. The thermal fuse did not register any thing, so I ordered the part and a few days later put it in. The dryer dries in just one cycle saving on the cost of repair and electric bill. Partselect.com is my first go to sight for any repair. They make it so simple and comprehensive that any one can do the repair. I then used duct tape to make a secure connection to the duct pipe in order for it to properly vent to the outside.

Previously I had repaired two washing machines and now a dryer, which is why my mom nick named me Josephine. So ladies you can make the repairs as well.

Had a lot of trouble getting front panel off. Check You Tube for directions. Checked heating coils and thermostats and found they were OK. Cleaned lint from fan and replaced thermostats although they may not have needed it (thermal cut-off kit). Put panel back and it works. See YouTube to see how to check coil and thermostats. They may check but if something is wrong it is either them or the control board. Thermal Cut-Off Kit is much cheaper.

Remove the exhaust tubing connection and the back panel (five nut screws). Locate the fuse; it is just to the right of the lint trap shoot, midway between the top and bottom of the back panel area. Replacement is visually intuitive.

Went to YouTube It was real easy.

I ordered the part, watched the video and made the repair in less than thirty minutes. This was much cheaper than purchasing a new dryer.

Pull off the front panel of the dryer, and replaced the thermal fuse. Very easy. Plus, vacuumed out the whole inside of the dryer, the rear and the tube running from the dryer to the outside. Will be doing this at least every 3 months to be safe. You would be surprised at how much lint builds up inside the machine. Eve though we clean the filter trap after every use of a load of clothes.

Repair went fine. Really easy for the most part. Unfortunately it didn't solve my problem. Great place to get parts though. I'm going to continue my search for the source of the noise

Thank you for the the installation tip I received along with the part. The suggestion of removing the front panel to install the belt made the installation go very smoothly.

I unplugged the dryer then removed 2 Phillips screws from lint trap. Then I popped the top up on each top corner with a screwdriver. I removed the 2 screws holding the front cover. I unclipped the wiring connection and moved the panel. I took out the old belt, put the tensioned back on then put the new belt around the drum and held the drum up with my shoulder then put the belt through the tensioner and put it on the motor spindle by pushing the tensioner back. I put it back together and it worked perfectly. Your video was very helpful. Job was very easy.

Had my wife call the repair man. Since it was Saturday afternoon, no luck. YouTube help me diagnose the problem. I found that the drum belt slipped off the idler pulley assembly and the assembly was laying on the floor. I noticed that the belt was frayed and was probably stretched out which may be why the belt slipped off in the first place. I glued the frayed pieces of the belt back with gorilla glue and clamps. You Tube helped me mount the idler pulley assembly and string the belt correctly. I then ordered the replacement parts through your website. The parts came to my home in a few days and I will fix the dryer properly when I get a chance.

The instruction sheet that comes with the parts is excellent. Follow it and all goes well. Be patient and stay away from the sharp sheet metal edges present in all such appliances !!

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

there were 5 ,1/4 screws in the back panel . The heater box was right at the rear when the back was removed.. Replaced the two controls that were in the kit with a 1/4 nut driver. Checked the terminals for tightness and contact. No discoloration on contacts. Ran unit after reassembly for 20 min cycle to test ,Put into service