EL4030VW0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

I replaced the Thermal fuse and this fixed the problem.

The video on Part Select didn't actually show my dryer. So I found a video more like my dryer. I took the top of the dryer removed the front panel and removed the dryer drum. I removed the thermal fuse and the three thermostats. I checked each with a multimeter and determined which needed replaced. When the parts came I installed the new parts and put the dryer back together. The dryer immediately worked properly.

take back from dryer all parts right in front of face replace part and try dryer and it work just like it said

Not knowing exactly what needed to be replaced I used the in-site questionnaire and followed through to problem and then ordered the first two items suggestions. Turned out the Heating Element Connection Wire Kit was redundant and not needed as the Cycling Thermostat included two such wire kits. I watched the video on the site and that gave me a fairly good idea how to proceed. I removed the back panel, lot of small screws, and then the Thermostat was easy to see. There are two similar looking parts but after closer look only one matched the new thermostat. Super easy, just remove wires and old thermostat and replace with new item and then before actually reinstalling back panel I put a load of damp clothes to dry. Half hour later...Wallaaa...problem resolved. Good luck with your fix. Oh, there is a sheet referencing to set the new thermostat if needed to a certain limit, however using old thermostat with its embedded model # found that factory setting for new one was fine. So, no need to reset.

I followed the video directions exactly as instructed and I had no problem doing the repair myself. And if I can do it being a woman with no help you can do it. Easy peasy~

I followed the basic steps in the video for the dryer door switch replacement. My dryer is much older but everything in the video was basically the same. It was a very easy repair. I have kept this dryer running for 26 of the 27 years of our marriage.

1.Installed thermal fuse. I thought this was the problem as a few years ago this fixed the dryer that was now experiencing a similar problem. Problem persisted. 2. Installed new thermostat. Problem persisted. 3. Installed new igniter coils. Eureka! Problem solved!

I checked all the thermostats with a OHM meter and found a bad sensor it was pretty simple using U tube as a guide and the parts were here in a day and a half I'm now getting ready to replace the transmission in my GE washer

I ordered the part I suspected....which was indicated by approximately 44% of the users having success replacing the thermal fuse. After watching the video on how to perform the repair, it was a snap! Removed the 9 screws, removed the vent hose, popped out the fuse, and replaced it. After checking to see if that was the problem....which it was, I reassembled the dryer. It only took more time because I chose to vacuum any exposed areas. THANK YOU!

It was not hard at all. I got the parts the next day.

I ordered kit to your recomendation, took machine appart as per your video (Very helpful), put machine back together only to find that that was not the problem.No other recomendation as to what else I should.

Verified that the heater element was working; drum and contents were getting hot. Could hear the thermostat clicking on/off as the element started to glow. Drum stayed very steamy the entire time; consistent with no airflow. Fan motor was running, dryer vent/line were clear. Verified cold (not hot) air from the external vent. Seals had degraded to the point that the fan was not drawing air from the drum, but from inside the dryer cabinet at the lower seal (by the fan blades); hot air was escaping from the upper seal and was causing the dryer cabinet to get unusually hot. Installed these 2 seals, and the dryer is working perfectly now.

TURN OFF POWER TO DRYER............................. Pay attention to where everything is as you take it apart, so it can be put back the same way. Take out the two screws by the lint screen. Use flat tip screwdriver between space in front of top to help lift top. Use rag on tip of screwdriver so as not to scratch it. Take out two screws inside the front panel at the top. One on each side. Unhook the switch wiring. Lift up the front panel to take off. The tub will be loose, so it can be taken out to inspect other components. Some call the tub a drum. Be sure to see how the belt tensioner is attached, so it can be put back on the same way, if it comes loose. It is under the tub. Take out old belt. Put new belt around tub. Make sure the tub sets on the two rollers in the back of dryer. While holding tub, put the belt around the grooved pulley on the motor. Grooves are face down against the tub. Feed belt through the tensioner. Put the bottom of front in on the tabs. Be sure belt is still in place around pulley and tensioner etc. Hold tub through front door and close front. Put the two screws back in on each side. Close top and put the two screws in at the lint screen. Done. Turn power back on. Turn on dryer to see if it operates properly. If not, check out your repair to see if everything is connected properly.

unplug take off vent hose and back panel unscrew one bolt holding the fuse disconnect 2 wires. Connect the 2 wires to the new fuse hold in place with the bolt put back on the back panel and vent hose plug in and your done

Used PartSelect instructions for routing belt & a customer's valuable guidance.