EI32AF65JS1 Electrolux Freezer - Instructions

I unplugged the fridge and unscrewed the back cover,unscrewwd the two screws holding the water valve in place and the water line to the ice maker and the electrical connection and install the new water valve,then buttoned everything back up and plugged the fridge back in and it is working great,making ice as normal.

I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.

Pulled the refrigerator out from the wall. Then unplugged it took my nutdriver with a1/4" socket on it and took out the screws from the cardboard back on the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I removed the two screws holding the water valve on. Then I unscrewed the supply water line from the main water inlet valve. Then I removed the outlet waterline going to the ice maker from the water valve. Then I reversed the procedure to put it back together. Hooked up the main water line and turned the water valve on for the water to flow to the valve at first nothing happened had to wait for a couple of hours for everything else to get to the right temperature before the ice maker would start making ice.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

It was real easy but I still have problem making ice cubs
Fell problem is in the ice maker went it dose make cubs they don,t dump

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

Loosened the 2 bolts 4 turns where it mounts inside the freezer. Lift maker off the bolts unplug 1 plug. Reverse to install.

Removed existing part, tested it, found it to be defective. OrderEd a new one and replaced the existing one.

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.

Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.

Shut off water supply under the sink. Removed old valve and installed new valve. Turned water back on and within a couple hours the first batch of ice made.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

Loosened the two mounting screws (no need to remove them), lift off the icemaker and unplug it. Reverse the order and done.