EDW6100N20CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I read some other fixes on this site. I received the new gasket folded it in half and just pressed it into the channel. Super easy fix.

After reading other customer responses I decided to attempt the repair myself. After pulling out dishwasher I turned it on it's side and prodeeded to remove the 3 screws holding it in place. FIFTEEN minutes later I pushed it back into position and it has performed like new for the past month. Comparing parts and service I saved about $200.00 on this self repair. I would not hesitate to undertake another repair after my experience.

Wow... Simple... Just pulled the old broken axle off, pushed the new wheel onto the axle then snapped onto the wire basket. Ez and cheap repair but it keeps an off balance dragging sliding from causing more damage.

Used needle nose pliers to get them off.G

Just removed the prior rack and put the new one in. Much improved design on the wheels and rack seems of better material as well. The rack does not have as many holders as the prior rack dishes and pans do not fit as well.

Immediately shut off water supply to the washer. After ordering and receipt ot part: Removed base panel, turned off power, disconnected wire, water supply line and screws attaching washer to kitchen counter. Pulled the washer out and turned it on its side with the valve on top. Removed and replaced the valve, returned the washer to the upright position, pushed it back under the counter, reconnected all services, screws to counter and base panel, turned on the water and power. Took two hours since I needed take a trip to the hardware store to replace a right angle water fitting .

Removed the screws at the inside door edges and lowered front panel. Identified placement of old part, unsnapped it from its mounting, unpluged the ribbon cable and removed the part. Installed the new part in the reverse order.

Replaced all eight wheels. Wheels come in two parts which I used a rubber mallet to gently force the two parts together, then removed each old wheel and replaced with the proper parts (Roller WD12X10074, Roller Stud WD12X10278), new ones appear to be better design and work very well.

I received the part very quickly. I threw away the old rack and put the new one in it's place. No tools or instructions were necessary. The new rack had all of the wheels and combs included. I did not have to purchase them separately. This is a much better designed part than the original rack. The combs are spread differently to better support plates, and the wheels are combined and enclosed to better support the rack. Also, I feel that this was a good price. Thank you!

Wheels on my lower dishwasher rack would come off catch in the door and crack or melt on the heating coil. These replacement wheel stud/axels are a better design and the wheels will not slip off. I am very pleased. Replacement was done without any tools and only took a few minutes.

Before you due anything else...remove the water inlet valve, remove the 4 screws holding the water inlet coupling to the valve housing, remove the nylon filter (tight fit), and clean the debris from the filter. Re insert the filter, reassemble the valve housing and check for leaks. Clears most water flow problems.

Ordered the part from you and it was easy to replace.

In replacing the upper rack in our dishwasher, I struggled and broke one of the end caps (see previous tale of woe. With the new end caps, I finished the job in less than two minutes with no tools. BUY END CAPS when you order a rack!

Replaced wax motor and soap dispenser (all one piece). Only problem was the plastic seal on the very bottom of door had come unseated, and therefore was leaking. You need to check that it is snapped all the way in, and then the leak ceased. Took me a few tries, which made a ten minute repair into an hour long one.

After finding significant water on the floor, misdiagnosed as sump/drainage leak. Replaced inlet sump and pump connector which requires unit to be tipped on side. Otherwise straightforward. Problem was actually a failure to drain. Drain pump running, but water not removed. Each successive step in the cycle added more water, and it eventually overflowed. Had to reinstall unit to determine this, so did that twice. All drain pipes clear. Found small piece of old sump 'latex' blocking drain pump flap valve which I could have looked for when I took it out to replace the sump. Removed blockage and reinstalled. Test drain OK with small bucket of water and rinse only cycle (with water off) just in case. Alignment of the various passages while tightening clamps is important as motor weight can distort rubber parts. I tied the motor up while reassembling.