EDW3000G01WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

turn circuit breaker off

Remove 7 screws holding internal panel on door
pull panel up and off,be careful to clear door handle through slot on front. Put a weight of about 8 pounds on the door to hold it open

Remove six screws holding the circuit board, and the small black switch assembly and the pop the control board out. Swap electrical connections from old to new board. Reassemble in reverse
screws should be tightened with fingers on screwdriver only (metal in plastic)

Clean up and collect kiss from spouse

Old baffles lift out and new ones installed - very easy

Rolled bottom rack out and lifted out. Replace lower rack by simply setting new rack on rollers and push inside dishwaher.
Top rack required removing plastic end clips on both sides of upper rack arms. Little bit struggle to remove but once out, old upper slide out of arms.
Installed new upper rack on arms and push retaining clips back in. Job complete.

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

The repairman offered to fix the dishwasher at a cost of about $200 or supply the water inlet valve for $85. Google led me to PartSelect.com where I easily found the correct part for $45. I received the part in 2 days by FedEx ground.
The hardest part of the repair was removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. I took the dishwasher out a short distance to the patio where I replaced the water valve...about 10 minutes.
I then made a makeshift connection to an outdoor water hose and connected the electricity and ran the dishwasher while out on the patio through a short cycle to make sure of the repair and check for leaks.
Then reinstalled into the cabinet...total time about 2 hours.
Thank you PartSelect.com

Repair is super easy and anyone can do it in no time!
At first my fear was that it was the pump, but after reading through the trouble shooting here it narrowed it down to the water inlet valve. The new valve even came with easy to read and understand instructions. I had it fixed in less time than it took my wife to make us lunch lol.

2 screws hold the mount bracket in place. Just remove the screws, remove the c-clip that holds the secondary/small water line on, pop the hose off then remove the main water inlet line [ its the bigger line with the brass fitting ] I only needed a pair of pliers for this. Reinstall the main water line into the new valve, but make sure you use pipe tape on the fitting or you'll have a water leak. Reinstall the secondary water line and reclip the c-clip using pliers to squeeze the clip. Hold the valve in place and reinstall the 2 mounting screws. That's it your done !!

This is the second time I've used partselect, and they are hands down the best !! Other sites would have you buying part after part until you happened to get lucky and get the right one. Not here, they help you figure out just what you need and nothing more.
Great people and fast service !!
Thank you once again.

Took four screws out, unscrewed the piston & nut assembly by hand installed the new one. Cycled the dishwasher & it worked perfectly.

Unplugged unit, unscrewed screws on top of dishwasher attached to countertop, undid water supply and drain hose that goes into tee with garbage disposal. Using crescent wrench turned front leveling screws up all the way and slid/rocked dishwasher out from under the counter - I had no problem leaving back leveling screws down. Turned dishwasher over on some towels (it WILL leak some water so spread out some towels!) so it was oriented like the directions that came with pump and motor. The directions were good, although color or a picture might have been more helpful. CHECK the new pump/ motor unit CAREFULLY for any loose debris from packing etc. I had a small piece of plastic that was in the top of the motor that goes in the dishwasher bottom that rattled around after I installed everything and put it back. I was able to get to it from the drain assembly in the tub but it made a heck of a racket at first. All in all, I had a great experience. I'm glad I ordered the pump and motor even though I only thought I needed the drain solenoid because when I took the old unit out, the prop on the old impeller was almost gone. Easy to order, good customer service (I called with a question and talked to a wonderful customer service representative!), good directions and easy to do. I'd say a 4 out of 10 in terms of difficulty. Thanks PartSelect!

Only getting "humming" sound from dishwasher. Although water had filled the dishwasher tub, pump/motor would not operate. After some research, figured the motor had siezed and I had to replace the pump/motor assembly as mentioned on this site. The kit came in a couple days and I reserved a Sunday afternoon for the repair which I had never done before. Hardest part of repair was unhooking and removing dishwasher from under counter and then getting it back in proper place. I would suggest providing some instruction within the repair instructions showing how the dishwasher is installed or how to remove it as I had never installed one so I was not quite sure what screws etc I needed to remove on the dishwasher itself to start to remove it? I was able to find the original installation instruction for the dishwasher and found that all you had to do was remove two screws from the inside top of the dishwasher which were securing it to the bottom side of the kitchen counter and then the whole thing just slides out. Once removed, turned dishwasher over to access bottom where pump/motor is located. After determining which diagram to use with the instructions, proceeded to replace the motor/pump assembly. It came out easily after wrestling with some corroded bolts/nuts and the existing pump inlet and outlet hose clamps. Mine were old and worthless and no new ones (3-4") are supplied with the kit. Had to run to hardware store to get new hose clamps for the inlet/outlet of the pump before intalling new one. Suggest new hose clamps be provided with the kit. Only thing that was not too clear in instructions was when reconnecting power wiring harness to motor. By looking closely at the instruction diagram I was able to locate what looked to be the right power extension harness from the bag of parts and attach it to the existing power wire harness and the new motor. Suggest also that you somehow better distinguish or identify the proper way the power wire harness should be fastned to the motor? The existing power wires were both the same color and both the female and male connections for the power at the new motor were identical leaving you to guess which wire goes to which connection. After re-installing dishwasher, put about a gallon of water in bottom of unit prior to starting and then put it through a few cycles. It has been working just like new. Suggest having a helper when removing and re-installing dishwasher from under kitchen counter to assist with the power cord, water line, drain line, and help to turn the dishwasher upside down and right side up again.

The symptom was that none of the dishwashers light came on – it was totally dead
With this repair the important thing was making sure I was replacing the right part. I also tested parts in order to avoid disassembling more than I needed. I checked the following:
1. Circuit breaker
2. Electricity was getting to the connection box underneath the dishwasher. (Require removing panels between DW door and floor).
3. Next I disassembled the DW inner door and checked the switch. Power was getting to the switch. When depressed, power was go on both sides of switch.
4. I pulled out the electronic control assembly (ASM) and checked that power was getting to the ASM; it was. (Note: be careful about what you touch, there is 110 volts out in the open).
5. I pulled the ASM from the enclosing plastic box that surrounds it. I looked at the circuit board to trace where power went from the connector. Not surprisingly, it went through a fuse then to a transformer.
6. I checked the fuse two ways: I checked it hot: power was getting through the fuse. I also unplugged the power and checked the resistance. The fuse was good.
7. Set the Volt-Ohm meter back to 300 Volts AC range – do not risk putting 110 volts into the ohms setting.
8. 110 volts was getting to the primary side of the transformer. There was no voltage on the other side.
9. I unplugged the power and checked the resistance of the primary side of the transformer. It was “open” – meaning a wire is broken inside the transformer.
10. This confirms the problem in on the ASM board. If I knew the voltage on the secondary of the transformer and radio-shack had such a part I guess I could try unsoldering it and replacing it. But I didn’t know that and there were signs of water corrosion on the board so I replaced it.
11. PartsSelect made the look up easy. Delivery was fast. The DW now works again.

First I opened the package and screwed the new dispenser cap into place.

Removed old rack replaced with new one which was an exact duplicate. Mama's happy; everybody's happy.

We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.

The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.

Inserted wheels on socket and then into the dishwasher rack.

installed part on inside end of rail. no tools needed. original part wouldn't stay on rail. finished in 2 minutes
wife happy