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leaking door- Dispenser Door Latch Grommet
Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.
I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.
Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.
Detergent cup was leaking and the detergent just dripped down the side of the door.
Took out the pins that hold the detergent cup on, beginning with the side without the spring. Make sure you check how the side with the spring is installed before you take it out. If it's not done right when you put the new one on the lid won't spring open. Then installed the new detergent cup lid. Easy as pie and it would have cost $50 to just have someone come out to look at it and this cost $12. Can't beat that!
wheel axle broke on one of the 4 wheels that supports the top rack
I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.
I used the parts blowup diagram on PartSelect.com and dissasembled the bottom wash assembly. Carefully examining how the washer arm rotated, I determined that the spray arm support nut had broken. The extended top of it has broken off. This nut, when tightened, allows the spray arm to rotate freely. In trying to diagnose the problem, I had even removed the motor assembly at the very bottom. When I reassembled it, I apparently did not seat the gasket well and did not tighten the bolts well, so when I tested the washer, water leaked out the bottom. So, I had to dissasemble it all again and properly torque the bolts. So, I really created another problem during the diagnosis.
After checking this site for any clues I saw that others had the same problem and changed the door switch so I thought I would give it a shot.I removed the inner part of the door(plastic).It had about 8 screws.Then there was a plastic cover that covers the wiring that comes right out and there was the switch.There are really 2 switches that come with the latch.then take out one screw with the nut driver.Take the four wires off the old latch and install on the new latch.Then screw back into the door and put inside part of the door together.Close the door and turn on and away you go.I also turned off the power to play it safe.I was thinking of replacing the dishwasher cause it is 10 years old but now I can take my time and wait for a good deal.Thank you very much partselect.Also I ordered the part 12.00 Sunday nite and recieved it on Tuesday afternoon with no special shipping.Wow!
First, I searched the repair help on this site to see what others did to repair their diswashers, and it looked easy, so I just followed the same instructions. First, I used a hex star key wrench to remove the screws that hold in the interior door cover. I disconnected the leads to the defective wax motor, reconnected the leads to the new motor and screwed the door back together. It took 15-20 minutes and was a piece of cake! My first appliance repair, and as a single woman and first-time homeowner, I was really impressed with this site! It gave me confidence to tackle more home repairs instead of calling for service and getting raked over the coals.
First unplug the unit. Open door. Take a special tool to remove all the screws (star shaped) around the edge of the door, and remove plastic panel where motor for detergent cup sits. Remove wires (two) from the motor. Remove wax motor by unsnapping motor from its cradle--comes out by moving the fingers holding it in. Push new motor into position, being sure the round pin sticking out at the end (on the left side) so that it sits in the groove made for it. Replace panel and screws, plug power cable back into its box. Close detergent cup door, turm on dishwasher, run through cycle, open door and check to see if detergent door opened up. If it did, then fill with dishes and wash.
Part did not come with corresponding securung hardware.
The replacement part was the perfect size but the threading on the terminal ends was increases to 1/2" v the 7/16" from the previous element. My first attempt was to find a similar type of part at the local hardware store(not a superstore)since I planned to replace the grommets anyway. After not having any success, I came home and modified the fasteners by slowly drilling out the id of the fasteners until they threaded properly. The time to replace after the drill out was less than 10 min and the ~$45.00 is significantly less than $450.00 for a new unit. If I would ask anything of part select, it would be to include fastening hardware as re-engineering of products is a continual process.
popped out the spray arm snap retainer that held in the upper spray arm and pushed the new snap retainer into the new upper spray arm to complete the job. I thought I must have done something wrong because it only took about a minute.
1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model) 2) Tipped it onto its back 3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver) 4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers) 5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring. 6) Removed broken link 7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door. 8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers. 9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.
would not wash or pump water out. Made noise like a bearing was out on motor. Went to dealer and was told that the motor and pump assy was not available because the washer was too old (18 years) and if a part was found it would cost $205. He wanted to sell me a new washer for $215. I went home
Removed the 6 screws holding the pump and motor assy. Disconnected the two hoses and wiring connector. Removed the motor and pump, removed the pump parts to get down to the impeller. Removed the old impeller (one screw) and installed the new impeller. Put every thing back together and it worked fine. Every one is happy!
This was really easy. I just took out the two screws securing the unit to the counter top and slid it out about 6 inches. Broken plastic spring linkage was obvious and easily accessible. I didn't know there was one on each side, I would probably have went ahead and ordered both and replaced them at the same time.
First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.
Although the (top) dishrack assembly included the nylon wheeles, it was easier to replace the old one by disengaging it from its wheels and installing the new rack on the old wheels kept in the slider track. The snap hook that held each wheel to the old rack was popped loose (finger pressure) and the old rack removed. The new rack was held in place and each of the four wheels snapped to it. Each wheel fits into a wire post on the basket and the plastic hook snaps onto the wire frame. The most difficult part of the 'repair' was removal of the handle from the old silver ware basket. I used screwdrivers to simultaneously pry the four tabs of the halde out of the slots on the basket and pulled (hard!) the handle off. It snapped easily into place on the new basket.
Tjhe nylon piece that attaches the spring to the door broke.
Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.