DW1800Y0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

First, I unplugged the dishwasher. After removing the under counter mounting screws, I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinets. Because the switch is hard to reach, I put the dishwasher on its side (very carefully). Make sure to drain the dishwasher first, or it will leak all over your kitchen. To remove the switch, I unscrewed the single black screw in the middle of the switch and unplugged the electrical wires. I put the new switch in its place, screwed in the screw, and plugged in the electrical connection. I set the dishwasher upright, and ran it through a cycle before reinstalling it into the cabinet. I had previously tried replacing the water inlet valve, but that was not the problem.

Removed the eight rollers that are screwed into the inside of the dishwasher upper section and simply screwed in the eight new ones. Only took about 15 minutes for the job.

Took the gasket off and put the new one on.

Nothing to it. Just inserted the iron stud into the center wheel and pressed the bracket onto the stud.

I used the flow chart online to determine the water inlet valve (WIV) was probably the problem. 1: Cut the power (circuit breaker) 2: turn off the water 3: Removed the lower, front panel (depending on age, you may want to replace the screws) 4: Disconnected electrical cord, waste water line and fresh water supply. This is when the bucket comes in handy. The waste water is NASTY!. At this point, I pulled the DW out and rolled it on its side (Bucket time). I removed the defective part and replaced it easily Simple swap. Clean the old teflon tape off the threads and put fresh tape on. Then I reversed the instructions and opened the water. Check for leaks before you finalize the installation. Then power it up and run a cycle to test. I took a coffee cup and put it in the top rack right side up and checked it periodically. If it keeps getting filled up, it's working. Then i ran a dishwasher cleaner through it, as it had developed a case of the crud sitting still. The new part is quieter than the old one, I can't even hear the water running into the DW now. I am SO happy that $30 worth of parts kept me from spending $500 on a new DW. Thank you Parts Select!, your installation video is great.

Water was leaking from under the Dishwasher. I took the lower front panel off to peak under the dishwasher with a flashlight to see if I could identify the problem.the leak appeared to be a cracked water inlet solenoid valve. I tuned off the water at the shutoff valve under the sink. Upon delivery of the replacement I disconnected the supply line from the compression nut of the brass Dishwasher Elbow with an adjustable wrench. Next I unscrewed the DW elbow from the water inlet valve using an adjustable wrench and a Channel Lock Pliers. Next remove the mounting screws holding the inlet valve in place and it dropped down allowing me to pull the electrical quick connect off and use a pliers to disconnect the fill tube. The process was reversed. Remount the hose to the new solenoid valve. Connect the electric. Remount the valve with the 2 mounting screws. Use Teflon tape to reinstall the DW elbow. Use pipe dope to reconnect the water supply line to the compression nut side of the DW elbow. Turn on the water and run Dishwasher to confirm repair is ok. Remount lower access panel and smile. Job well done. Exactly as shown in the video.

first shut-off power and water! removed bottom cover panels and top two mount screws from DW. slide DW out about one foot for easier access. disconnect inlet valve wiring harness. then remove the screws that hold the unit to the dishwasher. then disconnect water outlet hose (mine was a black accordian type tubing) use your pliers to move back the clamp. it will take a little bit of twist and pull to get that hose off. next use your adjustable wrench and pliers to unscrew inlet copper tubing from the valve unit. the old valve should now be free from the DW. replace in reverse , remember to use silicon tape. I left the bottom panels off for a couple more days to check for leaks. my wife told me that the first washing after the fix did not really clean the dishes as well , but after that everything was back to normal. so perhaps run the machine empty once?

Removed old gasket,placed new one on pressing into place.Very quick and easy.Saw the youtube on how to do it.Unfortunately this was not the problem.now have a new dishwasher same brand.

Spotted the source of the leak at the first heating element under the dishwasher. Removed the brass mounting nut and it was cracked. Replaced with new part from PartSelect.com and the leak was fixed. Apparently the heating element gets so hot it tends to crack the mounting nuts, which results in a leak. Delivery time for part said 3-5 days - mine arrived one day after ordered!

Remove the old part and replaced with new. Done

Cheked supply water line, water there but not getting into machine.Removed screws that hold machine to counter top, lowered adjustable legs and disconnected water line. I turned off power for safety.Pulled machine out about 8 inches to access water valve from the side. disconnect power supply wires, and water discharge hose, remove two screws on valve bracket. Install new valve and reconnect.

We have wood floors and in front of the dishwasher our wood floor started warping. We noticed it not getting any better so I looked under the dishwasher and could see a drip coming from the inlet valve. We have wood floors and recent granite counter tops so the dishwasher was stuck and had to hack saw the front legs to remove. Afte all that about an hour an half looked for the part and found it on your site for $25. We were going to replace the dishwasher but decided not to spend $700 for replacement. The part got here in 3 days and I was able to replace it very easy watching your video. It's been about a week and no leak and our floor is dry and back to normal. Thank you, Brent.

Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Turn off electrical power to dishwasher. Remove lower front cover to expose underneath the unit. Locate the valve toward the left, front underneath the washer. unplug the wire harness from the valve. lay a towel under the valve to catch water that WILL come out. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze and slide back the hose clamp holding the hose to the water bottle. Remove the 2 screws that mount the valve bracket to the frame. There is plenty of slack in the braided water feed hose to pull the valve out from under the washer. Remove the hose from the fitting and then remove the fitting from the valve. Re-wrap the threads of the fitting with teflon tape and install into new valve. Attach and tighten the braided supply hose to the fitting. Install the valve in reverse order of removal. It takes about 10 minutes to do.

Ordered the new roller assembly and in no time the upper rack was back together, up and running. Now to see about replacing the other two rollers and the side rails as they are showing wear and tear.

Thanks for the quick ship.