DU5000 Dishwasher - Instructions

Installed new door seal. Dishwasher still leaked. Googled the model number and then cleaned the filter at the bottom of the dishwasher, still leaked.
Verified that manifold bearing was not work. It was OK.
Found note that a plugged vent might cause leaking door. Very counterintuitive. Pried off air vent cover. Vent was thouroughly plugged with calcium deposts from steam. Cleaned these out.
Dishwasher no longer leaks.

Disconnect unit and remove from under counter. remove lower spray arm, tip over dishwasher on it's back, diconnect wires from motor , unscrew drain fitting rotate motor mounts to and lift pump and motor assembly up and out from inside the dishwasher. thoughly clean all parts during pump disassembly( under running water and a toothbrush works well) . Looking at a parts diagram,and using your memory from disassembly replace the new seals and put it all back together, with patience you can do anything and use common sense.

Ordered both drain & wash impeller kit and the drain check valve with o-ring. Decided to test the cheaper drain check valve first. Pulled dishwasher out from wall & adjacent cabinetry; removed drain hose from disposer and drained as much water as possible; "jacked" side of dishwasher to gain access to drain hose and drain check valve; used pliers to remove hose clamp; placed flat pan underneath to catch remaining water drainage; unscrewed drain check valve; tested under bathroom faucet--determined faulty; replaced with the new one, restored connections, reset dishwasher in proper location; voila--fixed! Plan to return the unneeded impeller kit.

The first thing I did was to investigate. I needed to find where the leak was coming from. It was leaking from just above tne door front panel, directly underneath the control panel buttons. I opened the dishwasher door, and decided to remove the door screen vent. I was covered with some offwhite fiberous, or filter like material. I thought perhaps the filter had broken down, and I ordered a new screen. When it arrived, and, although I had expected to receive a new filter with the plastic door screen, I didn't. There wasn't one to be ordered. I looked at the screen again. My problem was, that although I had considered that the substance I had thought was a filter, was instead build up of detergent, and other particals. That idea didn't seem to make sense. I didn't think it was possible for that stuff to get to the door screen. I thought, it was too far away from the dispenser and food particles. As it turned out, the buildup was, in fact, the problem. I properly cleaned the door vent, which was then fine, and I put it back into the door. There were no more leaks, that was it, and the problem was solved. As a last note however, unfortunatley, I have to return the new door vent screen that I ordered. I enjoyed solving the problem, and you all helped alot. Let's do it again sometime.

I removed the old gasket, installed the new one which took about 20 seconds.Tested the unit, water was still dripping, but in a different fashion.As per a previous poster's instructions I removed the vent cover. (Located inside the dishwasher up high.)I cleaned out the calcium deposits with hot water and a sacraficial toothbrush. "Ta-Da!" Everything is now groovy!Thank you so very much for your excellent service. Your site was easy to use and your shipping was "lightning fast!" Also, the advice you sent me was invaluable. I thank you, my wife thanks you and my trained lobster thanks you too! :)

Grinding Noise when running. I was not sure of problem and thought that a new Dishwasher may be needed if motor was the problem. After taking the bottom rack and spray arms out I came across my first problem. I believe it was the impeller design that has a 1in hex nut with a bolt in middle that needed to be removed. I needed a 90 degree 1in wrench to hold impleller while I removed Bolt. Luckly I have a friend that is a mechinist who made me a wrench.
After that the grinding cause was discovered - Broken glass that grinded the cermic shaft that is over motor shaft. I did not small drops of water under motor during grinding due to damaged cermic shaft.
$24 and 2 days later my dishwasher is as good as new. Sugguest you sell a 1in 90 degree hard plastic wrench for holding impeller which bolt is removed.
Thanks
PS. - Best part of your site is Parts detail which was very helpful for me to understand assembly.

Follow diagram that comes with the repair kit

This repair was very simple. I opened the door of the dishwasher then pulled the old rubber seal (gasket) out; I checked the old gasket to with the new one to ensure the new one was correct then installed the new one. There are two small rubber pieces located in mounting slots below the door gasket that slide out; I slide the old ones out and slide the new ones in. No tools required.
The thing that made the whole job easier was ordering the parts from Parts Select; I couldn't find exactly what I needed on the Whirlpool website but I found exactly what I needed on the Parts Select website and the parts were a perfect match.

After determining that the leak was coming basically from the motor shaft I googled until I thought I could handle it, took it apart to confirm I could get it apart (I thought it might be too stuck and I might need the whole motor thing) and then ordered the kit.

I don't think this could be done with the dishwasher in place, so I turned the water off to the unit and unplugged it. I had previously removed the front bottom cover plates (4 screws). I opened the front, removed the lower dish rack and unscrewed it from the bottom side of the counter, disconnected the water supply and drain line, then wiggled it out being careful of the insulation sheets, hoses, etc. Note, water drains everywhere. I had some baking pans to contain and paper towels to wipe but still, be safe / prepared.

I disconnected everything from the motor / impeller housing area, then went inside the unit and loosened the lock ring thing around the base of whatever you call the spinning arm / sprayer, it took a little effort, might be easier to try this when it is still mounted to the counter. After that main ring was removed the housing with the motor and everything just wiggled free.

I unscrewed the motor's 3 Torx screws, and then the unscrewed the plastic "X" at the end opposite the motor, the brass weight pulls straight off and the impeller is supposed to come off too. Mine was stuck like many I read about. I drilled a hole in the end of the plastic impeller and drove the motor shaft out with a punch and hammer, it worked pretty slick. Then I carefully pried out the last seal and stopped for a cold beverage, major success.

I carefully pushed the new seal into the housing, reattached the motor to the housing, pushed on the other new seals, the impeller, the new brass weight in the same order the old ones were, and screwed on the "X" on the end as snug as I could. Then I carefully reattached the motor and housing to the bottom of the dishwasher, ensuring good solid seals and tightening that big ring again from the inside as snug as I could get it, carefully hooked everything on the bottom back up basically in the reverse of disassembly, put the unit back under the counter, plugged it in, turned the water back on to it, loaded it and tested it. I was fortunate enough to not have it leak anywhere, after 3 or 4 loads I reattached the bottom trim pieces and checked this off my list.
Also, would love to mention that your site is great, the parts were priced attractively, they arrived very quickly and were a snap to install.

Thanks for saving me a ton of money / headaches!

Andy

I took off the bottom 2 plates covering the bottom of the dishwasher. I shut off the power to the unit.There are 2 insulated sleeves with a clamped wire attached to each side of the heater core. I removed the 2 wires and unscrewed the sleeves and lifted out the old heater coil, to install I reversed the process. I found this repair to be a piece of cake, and of course my dishwasher worked like a new one saving me at least $400.00 for a new dishwasher, plus the pain of taking out the old unit and installing the new dishwasher. Thanks for your wide selection of repair parts.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Well, after I got the the dishwasher apart I realized the problem was not the wash impeller kit, it was the pump/ motor asembly. we deicided to replace the machine. the hardest part was holding the impeller from turning while removing the screw. there is a hex on top of the impeller you must hold in place but, if the machine is old, the hex is brittle,It will break as mine did. you will need to disconnect and take the washer from under the cabinet, and wedge a piece of wood into the motor to hold it. Then loosen the screw and inspect the components. 10 years old, it was more cost effective to replace the dishwasher. i emailed for a request authorization to return. partselect responded promptly with the autorization i needed to return the part. The service was good, and I would use partselect again.

Forum was not too helpful diagonsing problem.
Decided to take apart to clean and found all blades broke off impeller.

Use shop vac to suck out water.
Remove agitator inside unit.
Remove dishwasher from wall tip down on door.
Remove pump.
unscrew housing to find impellor.
Carefully put on new impeller.
Clean sealing sufaces,
Reinstall.
Some broken impeller blades were found in agitator.

I have a Kenmore model that can either be totally installed under counter, left on casters or in my case installed permanently with the 'portable' covers still on. A model that is only for installation in a cabinet may be different.
Open door part way and flex the plastic hinge 'pins' on the kick plate out of the door itself. Once these are out you can close the door and lay the kick plate down towards you. This will expose a spring that is attached to pins on either side of the kick plate and held in place by a rubber cap. Remove the cap, pull the loop of the spring off the pin, and repeat for the other side. At this point you can remove the kick plate and set aside out of the way.
There is a second plate behind the kick plate held in place by four screws. Remove the screws with a Phillips head screw driver or a 1/4 inch wrench or socket, then remove the plate and set aside.
Now you have exposed the frame rails that somewhat hide the springs, one on each side. If you are lucky, like I was, only one is broken so you can use the other as a guide. Also the installation drawings that came with the part were very helpful. The information supplied by Kenmore in the parts list was no help at all.
Follow the 'assembly' found in the kit to assemble the 3 parts of the spring. A this time you may want to open the door halfway then close it and reopen a couple of times and observe how the tail of the door hinge moves, this will show you where the spring is attached. The spring is mostly hidden behind the frame rails but the two connection points are visible with the help of a flashlight. If one of the springs in still connected, observe the two connection points, one on the tail of the door hinge (top of spring) and the other in a series of slots in the frame rail.
With the door closed, hold the spring assembly in one hand (easier said than done) and hook the top of the assembly over the hook on the door hinge. Let it hang down in place and slip the lower part of the assembly into one of the slots. Again if one of the springs is still in place just use the same location as before. If both springs are missing, use one of th slots in the middle.
Only one of my springs were broken but I installed new ones on both sides as cheap insurance against doing this again in a few months.
Step by step appears a bit complicated but the whole thing only took about 10 minutes.
Good luck.

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.