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Models > DU1145XTPBA > Instructions

DU1145XTPBA Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for DU1145XTPBA parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DU1145XTPBA
76-90 of 456
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motor making a load noise

  • Customer: Kenneth from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
pull out the dishwasher
lay it on its side
use a 1/4" drive socket with extension and a universal joint to undo the the hidden bolt,
twist the motor 1/4 turn. this is the hard part you have to pull fairly hard and rock the motor around a little to get the o-ring to let the motor slide out.
lube up the new motor with jet dry or soap and insert back it, turn it back 1/4 turn, install the bolt and plug the motor control wires back in, then reinstall it back under the counter

My Dishwasher was making a heck of a noise.

  • Customer: John from Ripon, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected Power, Turned off water valve, disconnected drain return line, disconnected water line, removed two screws on inside-top that was mounted to counter, pulled out dishwasher while feeding power cord, drain line, water line. Turned Dishwasher on it's side and disconnected water line and water fill line from Fill valve Assembly. Disconnected power connector from Valve. Removed one screw from Fill valve assembly and removed Fill valve assembly.
Installed Fill valve assembly and screwed screw back in. Installed Water line and water fill line from valve. Snapped power connector back in. Doubled checked Fill Valve connections to make sure they were tight. Slide Dishwasher back in while lines and power back through to under sink. Made sure Dishwasher was set in place and mounted two screws to counter. Connected water line to water valve and connected discharge line back to it's location. Turn water back on. Plug power back in.
Turned unit on and checked for leaks at the fill Valve assembly, water line and discharge tube.
Saved ~ $ 100.00. Easy job. I wished I didn't wait so long when it was making the noise for so long...Good luck..

The dishtrack wheel came off the track and fell into the dishwasher and melted

  • Customer: Timothy from huntersville, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I snapped on the new part onto the track. It was that easy! :) Thank goodness the part was available from Part Select!
T. Edwards

Dishwasher would not pump water

  • Customer: Gerald from Simsbury, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 13 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
.The easiest way to complete the impeller and chopper motor replacement is to disconnect the power, water and drain line, remove the dishwasher from the cabinet, set the washer on its back.

From this point everything is visible, pump housing, motor, etc. and it's a matter of disassembly and reassembly. Make note or a drawing of where all the wires are connected so you reconnect them in the right spots.

Reinstall water lines and power and check for leaks before replacing shield or kick plate.

Pulverized food particles were being left on the dishes in the top rack

  • Customer: nanette from Bronx, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST I TURNED OFF THE POWER GOING TO THE MACHINE!!!! Then I removed the top rack by removing the (2) end caps on the front of the rack glides first then lifting the rack upwards and out. Next I removed the bottom rack which slid out easily. I then removed the lower spray arm that was held in place by the plastic turn-screw portion of the lower spray arm support/hub. I turned the screw a few times and the spray arm was released. I then released the feed tube assembly that was held in place by (2) clips; one clip was on the back panel of the tub (above the probe area) and the other clip was on the top panel of the tub (before the upper arm spray). Then I turned the entire tube feed assembly a quarter turn to the right so that it was possible to separate/unsnap it from the feed cap on the bottom. After the feed tube was moved away I was able to access all (4) screws that holds the accumulator in place. I used an allen wrench to remove those. After the accumulator was removed I saw two screws that was holding the 2-part protective cover of the chopper assembly. The small cover came out easily, the round cover took a little jiggling and fussing until I figured out how to pop it out. The chopper was revealed when the cover came off and I found it to be very warn and a bit bent. I pulled it out by pulling it upwards and forward towards me. At this time I also removed the valve check. To my surprise it didn't look like the one that I bougth to replace it. It was missing the round disk portion. I fished around thinking it may have somehow fallen off, but I didn't find anything. I put the new one in, disk-side down. I then put the chopper assembly in place and put everything back together again. I'm not 100% sure that it is completely back to normal. It seems to leave significantly less debris than before, but I noticed that there is more water on the bottom of the basin now. So it may not have been my only problem. If anyone has experienced the same thing I would really like to know

Lower spray arm seal replacement

  • Customer: Fred from Grafton, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

Dispensing cap came off during washing

  • Customer: HELEN L from BALTIMORE, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Simply made sure the cap was securely in place.

a plastic tab broke off of the silverware tray

  • Customer: Dan from Redmond, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
no actual 'repair' was necessary, but, i was blown away at the speedy process of ordering and delivery of the part.

water did'nt get into machine.

  • Customer: victor from lombord, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
i asked the vrtual repair stating the problem of my dishwasher machine ,he then give me two possible solution change the water presure switch which i did order the part and installed it and it works now..............thanks partselect.

quit pumping water

  • Customer: Robert from West Middlesex, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. This took the bulk of the repair time along with disconnecting the water supply and electrical connection. I had enough slack in drain hoses that I could turn the dishwasher over to replace the motor. I was surprised that there was only one bolt that held the motor in place. I put the motor on, turned the dishwasher upright and slide it back unde the counter and began the long process ofreconnecting everything. I am sureit could have gone faster if I were younger and did not need glasses for close work. Start to finish took me four hours. This was the fourth time I have replaced motors in dishwashers of various makes.

dishwasher wasn't cleaning well

  • Customer: Robert from Katy, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

clean light flashing 7 times would not run

  • Customer: Mark from Winchester, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
removed screws holding dishwasher to counter top,raised leveling pads,pulled dishwasher out, unplugged wiring,removed hold down nuts from inside dishwasher and installed new heater element, this was all easy the hard part was finding the code to reset the dishwasher there was no paperwork inside the dishwasher although there was an empty plastic holder.The code that worked for my model was with the door open to push the normal wash button then the high temp button three times as fast as you can within four seconds then close the door. It worked and reset the dishwasher which ran a short cycle then shut down as normal and is now working fine.After doing this select the beverage of your choice and relax. Hope this helps someone.

motor was very loud...........bearings in motor were beyond repair

  • Customer: Mark from Plymouth, WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 12 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Replace motor/pump assembly

bones inside locked motor up and burned it out

  • Customer: Dawn from New Richmond, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
disconect water supply and drain hose, unscrew 2 screws hoding front of dishwasher to countertop, slide dischwasher out so you can tip on its door and remove 1 screw hidden behind plastic shield and pull motor out install in reverse order.

water not heating

  • Customer: Raymond from Palmer, AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.
All Instructions for the DU1145XTPBA
76-90 of 456