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Replace ice maker
New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.
I followed the instructions found on this website. I removed the control panel by inserting a small Phillips screwdriver in the three holes at its bottom. I used the same screwdriver to pull the dispenser assembly down but could have used a larger one. The microswitch could be seen in the assembly at that point and was easily removed by opening the "fingers" that held it in place. I attempted to pull one of the terminals off without using a pair of needle-nosed pliers and ripped the wires right out of the terminal(I was able to find a replacement at Radio Shack). Low and behold after reinstalling the new part, it did not take care of the problem.
My problem is the water dispenser does work intermittently. When we place the glass in position and hit the lever, the lights in the control panel go off and no water is dispensed. My next guess may be the water valve or the control panel. The icemaker makes ice but I have had problems with it dispensing for nearly a year now.
water leaking from grommet tube assembly at back of fridge
After thawing out freezer pushed water supply tube out from inside freezer diconneted the supply line from the valve assembly by pushing in the bushing with my finger and inserting the new line. Sadly that wasn't the problem!For anyone with the same symptoms of ice building up on your ice maker, to the point where it clogged the water supply line and started leaking from the grommet assembly. The problem is the valve not closing when the ice maker does not need any water. so I ordered a new valve and hopefully that will fix my problem.
Frost in ice chut, flapper hanging partially open.
Removed control panel, snapped out pretty easy. Removed flapper assembly (4 small screws). My spring was broke but it ended up being the solenoid assembly after I replaced the spring, door crank, micro switch and flapper it was obvious the solenoid was hanging up. I had to go back an order it but it was at my door 2nd day (quickly). I took the time to clean the area with Tylex (some mold), and everything went in easily. I didn't really need the new flapper, crank, and micro switch but they were fairly cheap and then all is new. We use our ice dispenser a great deal so I didn't want to have to go back in and fix a part I "should have" replaced. I used Part Select for my washer motor as well. Doing both repairs myself probably saved 3 or 4 hundred dollars easily.
The first component I suspect is the relay mounted near the compressor. I installed the replacement relay and still nothing. I then removed the control board, inspected it for burnt circuit paths or components. I noticed the c.b. relay for the compressor's lead had burned away the solder and there was no longer a viable connection. Not sure why this happened but my next step is to a) reestablish a solder connection. If this fails then b) replace the control board.
went online to an appliance repair site and found out that this model has problems with the damper malfunctioning. went to partselect and ordered what I needed and it arrived in two days. to replace the damper you just remove the light at the top of the frige and the cover around it . the damper assembly only has 2 screws and is easy to remove.
First I removed the front cover (pried a screwdriver gently under the bottom plastic seal between housing shield and front cover, it came off nice and easy without damage). Removed electrical plugs from electronic board (front cover) so that it did not hang from the wires and get it the way. Then removed four screws holding housing shield on. Removed housing shield, first observing with new parts next to me how it came apart. And then disassembled funnel from shield. Simple but being careful is the key to putting the new unit together as with any plastic parts it's easy to snap if forced. Replaced all parts in reverse order removed. This is a good time to clean all parts for any mold build up that could not be reached otherwise. Parts select personnel were courteous and very helpful. Especially when I almost ordered the wrong color parts. Ask questions if not sure.
simply push new ice bucket into position and your done. works better than new! saved 200.00 from calling in a tech for the repair. the part sent is a original GE part not an aftermarket part.
Turned off the water. Removed the maintenance cover plate on the back of the refrigerator and disconnected the tubing. Removed the tubing cover plate on back of refrigerator. Removed two screws from filter hosing mount on the inside of the refrigerator and pulled the old tubing out. Simply inserted the new tubing and mounted the housing and reconnected the tubing using plumber’s pipe compound. Then re-installed the cover plates on the back of the refrigerator, installed the filter and turned on the water. It was a very easy install.
after changing the water filter and having no improvement. I went to the next part of the system. Turned off the water supply. I removed the bottom cover in the back of the refrigerator. unscrewed the nuts on the water supply hose from the main supply and the one going back into the fridge. moved to the inside of fridge and unscrewed two screws holding the filter mount and pulled the tubing through. Reversed my steps and the water flow was great . Thanks
Broken water line near solonoid to feed drinking water
bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.
Initial diagnosis indicated faulty cold air damper, so first action was to remove the light assembly and then the plastic housing that contains the FF fan and damper. The two hidden screws at base of housing required removal of lower decorative plastic duct that turned to be held by snap in-tabs at top and slide away fastener at bottom. The damper housing is held to the roof of the FF chamber by two screws that were taken out to remove the light assembly.
When the plastic housing is pulled towards the front of the refrigerator, the multi-pin wire connector can be disconnected and the damper assembly easily removed.
Installation required need of a thin plate to seat a sponge rubber seal without damage, so I used a thin metal kitchen spatula. Nothing unexpected was encountered in reversing the disassembly process.
Although the new damper corrected the excessive cold situation, the temperature max-min span remained in excess of 15 degrees F, so the control panel was swapped in the small covered cavity located in the outside back of the refrigerator. A 1/4" nut driver and needle nose pliers were all the tools necessary for this operation.
Together the two replacement components have solved the frozen food problem and the over night max-min FF span is now 5 degrees or less.
I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are excellent!
Flapper not sealing. Frost buildup on inside of freezer door
Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved