DLB3600SBLWH Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

i removed two screws and lifted the top up on it hinges. the heating coil was readily accessible. luckly one of the thrmostats fell apart.
partsselect was great. exploded diagrams let me locate and order the replcement easily.

thanks to partsselect i can keep my 16 year old dryer forever.

My son in law installed the new part, I didn't watch him so not sure how he did it, think he removed 6 screws, took the front panel off, installed the new part , took less than 15 minutes, now, dryer working again! Sure saved me money, of course, the dryer might die tomorrow from old age but today, working like a charm.

It was very easy. Pop out old, connect new wires and done! Can't say enough as to how fast and easy getting the part from this company was. Ordered the part later in the day one night and on the second day the part was there. Outstanding service.

* Please note, if only the starter switch peg is broken you do not need to replace the starter knob if it isn't damaged. The peg is not attached to the starter knob. You must replace the entire starter unit because the peg isn't detachable.

Remove the starter knob by gently pulling it towards you.

Remove the two screws on the bottom left and right sides of the front panel using an Allen Wrench.

On the rear panel of the dryer remove bolts using pliers or an adjustable wrench. Remove the back panel and place it to the side.

** Important ** Before disconnecting the wires from the starter unit take a digital photo (I used my cell phone) of the starter so you will know how and where to reconnect the blue and brown wires to the unit. Now, remove the wires.

Unscrew the bolt attaching the starter unit to the dryer. There's a hook on the back of the starter unit attaching it to the dryer. Push the starter unit downward to remove it from the dryer.

Take the new starter unit out of the box and connect it to the blue and brown wires. Refer to your photo for proper connection.

Insert the starter unit into the dryer and push it upward so the hook on the back of the starter locks onto the dryer. Screw the bolt back onto the starter unit to secure it to the dryer.

Replace the rear dryer panel and tighten all bolts.

Replace and tighten the two screws on the front panel of the dryer.

Replace the starter knob by lining it up with the peg shape and gently pushing it onto the peg.

You're done!!!

I discovered that the High Limit Thermo was in place, but had been bypassed years ago. After lifting the top up, I finally found the HLT on the top left side in the back. I removed it, then put the new one in with its 2 screws. I put new lugs on its wires and put them back on. The dryer tested GOOD. No more potential Bar-B-Que! I did print a picture of the wiring diagrams that were on the back of the unit. This gave me the color code of the wires, where they were to be found, and what they did. This also helped. This GE Dryer is at least 26 years old! Newer Dryers in the Videos actually require more work removing things to get to the Thermostat. When I finally found it, the job went quick.

Took to many parts off to find out only needed to remove four front screws under the lid. I lifted the lid and found the thermostat and replaced same dryer now works great again at normal temps.

Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.

Son found out where the bulb was by using YouTube. I googled lamp for model number and your website came up. I ordered the part, it arrived promptly, and my son installed it.

I unscrewed the backside top part of the dryer with a 5/16 nut driver then, removed the damaged timer assuring I marked the wires harness correctly with the new timer. I removed the damaged timer and inserted the new timer I then replaced and screwed in the backside top of the dryer. The Lint Filter with frame removed without difficulty (without any tools) and, I installed the new Lint Filter with frame with no trouble. The Job was completed in less then 12 minutes.

Easy. Take old one out, put new one in.

first I removed the screws with the nutdriver at the bottom of the dryer at the back..then I could see the belt was broken...next I took off the 2 nuts at the back that hold the top on ..then opened the dryer front door and unscrewd the 4 screws holding the top on....then I lifted the top up and to the side...then all I had to do was take out 2 screws one on each side of dryer front and the the front was open enough that I could slide the new belt on dryer..then screwed the front back on...then placed the top on and went to the back of dryer and put belt on pulley using the diagram I found in the instructions inside the dryer top...really a lot easier than it sounds...easy fix saved me from buying another dryer

Unplugged the machine.
Removed four screws from the top of the machine to uncover the top of the machine.
Pulled the leads off the broken switch.
In the future I will make a note of which lead goes where. There are only two ways.
Went to PartSelect.com and found the part in less than a minute by using their part finder.
Placed the switch through the original opening in the machine and reattached the leads.
Reattached the cover. Plugged the machine back in. Turned the switch and it started right up.

I removed the front panel and the top of the dryer, pulled the drum forward and removed the old rear drum bearing then inserted the new rear drum bearing. I didn't replace the washers or the retaining ring in the back. Put the drum shaft into the new rear drum bearing. Put the front panel and the top in place and started using the dryer again.

Top is hinged in back, removing the 4 screws over the door under the top allowed the top to open. Removing the 2 screws near the top of the door panel allowed it's removal. Marked and disconnected wiring. Lifted drum through top. New bearing housing required 3 mounting holes to be tapped to 10-24. Installed bearing and backing shims with old hardened allen head mounting screws inside drum while wife held bearing in back of drum. Furnished 3- 10-24 lock nuts to lock mounting screws in place from their back side. Reinserted drum through dryer top with belt on drum. Hardest part was getting the belt on motor pulley while holding the idler in it's correct position due to small access holes at the very bottom in rear panel. Works just fine again.

After ensuring all 5 temp sensors were not open, replaced the timer assy by removing the back of the control section. ( 5 screws ) . removed both wire connectors and 1 screw. removed the old timer assy and knob. put old knob on new timer, installed into slots, installed screw and replaced wire connectors. replaced back panel and vent hose, applied power. Works like new