DG612 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Igniter would glow and flame would burn for about 30 seconds then a rattling noise would start and the flame would go out. Replaced the coil and all is well. Very simple and inexpensive. One of the easiest repairs I've ever done. Video was very helpful.

Both washer and dryer always worked perfectly. Suddenly, dryer wasn’t drying laundry properly. Problem... no heat. Cheapest price I could find calling for appliance service was about $160 to replace coil set but no one would tell me this would fix the problem. This was after calling a number of repair firms and trying to get a somewhat close estimate of what my problem was and what the repair cost. Not knowing, I might have just paid the $160 but what turned me off was having a service call fee of anywhere from $50-$80 with no one willing to tell me what the problem might most likely be before coming out or give me an estimate over the phone other than a range of $160 - $275. I just did not want to have someone come out for $50 -$80 and tell me that I needed to spend $275 and still owe them the service call even if I did not agree.
Found diagnostic and repair instructions help on line. The diagnostic information indicated a high probability, roughly 50%, that replacing the coil set would solve the problem and found the coil set cost $19.21 plus shipping, so I ordered the coil kit for total of $26.70. Note... I am a 71 year old amateur never having worked as a repairman of any kind except for my own needs.
The repair itself took less than 30 minutes start to finish and was one of the most straight forward, glitch free, easy repairs I have ever done. This is a gas dryer but still uses 110 power so I unplugged the 110 power cord from outlet. Followed suggested guidance on opening the dryer cabinet from the front and presto, the coil set I needed to replace was immediately right in front with easy access. Removed 2 screws for the hold-down bracket, slipped off both coils, one at a time, removing the wiring connection for each coil and then reconnecting to each new coil before slipping each new coil back into place and reattaching the hold down bracket. Reinstalled the dryer door and cabinet front in reverse order from taking off... 4 screws total. Plugged in the 110 power cord and put in a damp load of freshly washed laundry. Presto... 30 minutes later... dry laundry. Note... could do the same repair again in half the time since I took it slow and careful 1st time and also took time to remove dust before completing repair. I like things to look like new inside and out and it did when I was done. $26.70 and good as new. Why I didn't spend $160 - $275 is pretty obvious now.

In a nut shell ,unplugged dryer, removed front cover and door. Removed snap ring , lifted drum a little, removed old roller, installed new roller replaced snap ring . Replace door and front cover and plugged it back in.

I first replaced the temperature sensor. That did not help and when doing investigation when thr drier was warm I found the vallve would open and close if I touched the coils

My husband did the repair with no fussing! ! So I think it went pretty smoothly for him. I watched the video that was supplied so if he had problems I could help but he did not need any. My parts was delivered next door so I had to track it down. Other than that the whole process went great.

Repair itself was not hard, Pop top, unscrew front panel and pull forward to get at the coils under the drum. --THIS IS THE KEY POINT i ENCOUNTERED: I tested the coils and the resistance was right according to the schematic. But still the flame would go out after while. --on a whim I pulled the front cover and tested the coils immediately after the flam wouldn't re-light.---When the coil got warm, it would open (no continuity). When it cooled down again the correct continuity would return. Replaced the coil and no more problem

Follow the video instructions, get a mental picture of the routing of the belt because you'll be working blind. Wear long sleeves when putting belt on pulleys unless you want your arms to look like you've had a fight with a cat! Lubricate the tumbler rollers and idler pulley. An electric dryer is a very simple machine that should last a long time. Mine was 20+ years old when the belt went south.

I removed the door and front panel which exposed the flat style igniter. I removed the bad igniter and installed the new. Reinstalled the front panel and door. Hooked up the gas line and fired it up. Works like new again.

I followed the instructions with the new parts. Thank you very much for including these tips.

Video Was necessary. Rem 4 screws inside Door Rim, 2 holding Frnt Panel,2 holding Top Clips. Lay screws in a pattern for the re-installation. Lift top for no good reason. Left arm & hand- LEARN BELT THREADING. Move belt over back structure. Rmv Drum, Chge 2 back rollers & 4 Washers, back w/drum, RE-THREAD BELT CORRECTLY, Rotate Drum CW till belt tracks old worn path. Re-inst Top clips, Front Panel, have a beer, Re-instl Door. Rotate Drum freely, Start up. 2nd beer if Belt Thread OK. 1/2" of Rear of Right back roller was worn away due to Lion screaming.

replaced igniter

1. Unplugged and not connected to any gas lines
2. Disassemble
2.1. Remove back plate using nut driver
2.2. remove belt from drive/take up roll
2.3. Remove front door using a screwdriver and putty knife
2.4. disconnect wiring from front door and be sure to mark color of wire with slot from which it came from (I marked the first letter of color in pencil on quick disconnect slot)
2.5. set door out of way
2.6. remove top and set next to machine (no quick disconnect for this) (nut driver)
2.7. remove front mounting bracket for tumbler (nut driver)
2.8. remove tumbler/drum (label in pencil on tumbler “F for front and R for rear” of tumbler, for re installation later)
3. Drum Roller Kit
3.1. Use snap ring pliers to remove snap rings on shaft of drum rollers
3.2. remove rollers and washers
3.3. inspect shafts for wear (if shafts are good go on to next step, otherwise order new shafts & install new shafts)
3.4. install new rollers and washers
3.5. use snap ring pliers to install snap ring on shaft with rollers in place
3.6. test rollers (make sure turn smooth and without wobble)
4. Fan Blower wheel with clip
4.1. remove cover for blower fan wheel (using nut driver or adj. Wrench)
4.2. be sure to note which way the blades are angled
4.3. Remove snap ring on blower fan
4.4. remove fan blade/wheel
4.5. inspect shaft for wear
4.6. turn shaft and feel for play in motor bearings or spots of catching (hopefully there is none, if motor turns really hard or not at all, has more than 1/16” of play, or keeps catching on something internally, you may want to start looking for another dryer/or motor depending on prices)
4.7. install new fan blade/wheel (with blades facing correct way
4.8. clip snap ring on shaft and manually test fan for smooth turning and no wobble.
4.9. If all is well, Install guard
5. Front glide kit
5.1. I did one at a time so I could imitate and look at the other one and not take notes on correct install (even those its not that complicated)
5.2. Drilled out old rivets (using drill and 1/8” bit)
5.3. put glides in place and used rivet gun to rivet down glides ( should have little arc to them)
6. reassembly (two people would be nice but can be done by oneself)
6.1. be sure drive belt is on tumbler/drum when installing
6.2. place tumbler back in place and be sure tumbler is riding rollers and cloth as well as Front/Rear are in Front/Rear
6.3. (hopefully with one person hold tumbler in position) install mounting bracket
6.4. turn tumbler and be sure turns freely and has a little play/slop/wobble
6.5. from rear of machine place drive belt back on take-up and drive (be sure groves of belt are facing into the take-up pulley which is also grooved) and turn tumbler again. Should have a little resistance now
6.6. put top of dryer back and screw together
6.7. put front on and screw together
6.8. Screw back plate on
6.9. Repairs are complete
6.10. Plug in and test. You don’t need a gas line attached to test