DG20F8AM Admiral Dryer - Instructions

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

Replaced coils on gas valve.

After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!

I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.

Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.

No Repair, just replacement. Went perfect.

I am a teacher and teaching is my game. I have always, with my four children, taught them to do mechanical work themselves. I and most of my children have a PhD, but in having said that, I confess, we come from a very mechanically talented family. It shows and proves to be of great benefit.
OK, so much for the intro.

I gave my daughter the tools and said, "What do you think is wrong with the dryer and where would you start?" She tested it and said, "The motor is running, but the tub is not turning thus I conclude it is the belt because I can hear the motor running eliminating that as a cause.

She then opened the top, looked around and removed two screws from the lint catcher. She looked it over, looked a me, I shrugged my shoulders and she then took a rubber hammer and popped the top off. Don't ask me how she knew that, but I think she saw the rubber pins through the crack between the case and top. She raised the top after removing two screws in back to relieve the simple hinge and also disconnected the wiring clip and sure enough, the broken belt was inside the cabinet. We called you, the best, fastest and most accurate service on the Internet and ordered a replacement. I would like to add, the price is always more than fair and delivery very prompt.

When the part came, my daughter took it up to our laundry room and within twenty minutes, she tested it and everything was fine. She did smell a little burning smell which might be attributed to a new belt or the fact that there was no clothing in the dryer.
Thank you so very much.
Dr Robert E McGinnis

Unscrewed back plate, and replaced bulb

Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!

Unplugged, loosened front cover, disconnected two wires from door open indicator, removed front cover with screw driver. Removed air flow cover with screw driver. Used pliers and retaining ring pliers to remove old blower wheel, my husband calls it a "squirrel cage". Installed new blower wheel and reassembled. It was all easy to see and get to. Thanks for having the right part. Sue.

Took off top and front. Removed belt and pulled drum straight out. Unclipped the rollers. And noticed the rod that holds the roller was worn out badly. Good thing I bought the kit. Because it came with everything needed and was cheaper then buying the rollers seperate. Only hard part was putting the new mounting on for the rod. They are not predrilled. So does take some force. Put everything back togetther and dryer is working like new. fyi you can also clean out your air duct of lint buildup when doing this project. Had a repair man come over 2x in past year and each time he would replace the roller and charge me $150 each time. I spent $300 on that bozo. When i could have ordered the parts myself for a fraction of the cost. This was well worth and easy to do.

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

First I disconnected power to dryer. Next step was to lift top of cabinet and support upright. Then I removed door switch and 2 screws that hold front panel on and set front panel aside. Next was to reach under drum by belt tightener and remove drum drive belt from tightener and pulley of drive motor. Then slowly remove drum from cabinet . Once removed, I could remove old glides that were worn out and install the new ones. Before putting everything back together, I gave the cabinet a thorough vacuuming to remove all lint built up inside, checked electrical connections on heating unit and oiled back drum support rollers and belt idler roller. Next just reassembled everything in reverse order as was disassembled. Plugged cord back in and tested unit to make sure everything sounded good before drying any clothes.

Lifted hood ,and took two screws and tilted the front back and remove the door switch , and took front off ,use little socket set, took cover off fan housing took pliers removed clamp on fan , remove key way on end ,slid fan off and put new one on and reverse the way if came off.

removed front cover, lifted drum up with a clamp and replaced slides. Replaced front cover