DG20F5HW Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

i read some of previous customer problems and fixes pulled the front cover off found coil's location when i turned on drier you could see the ignitor getv hot but burner would not ignite unless i put a little pressure on secondary coil when i let go of coil flame would go out. ordered 'M' series new style coil kit came in in about three days installed parts drier workng good i would reuse parts select agian thanks

I just used screw driver to pop of clip put new roller on poped clip back on

I popped the top off and tipped the dry over . It took 2 to reposition the drum and belt back after taking it out and remving the old wheel and replacing it.

Finally got tired to greasing the wheels only to have to do it again so I sprung for new wheels and shafts. Popped the top open, removed the drum, installed the two new shafts with supplied screws then attached the wheels. Figured I'd change out the original belt while I was at it even though the old one still looked good. It's nice and quiet again, plus it give me a chance to clean it out.

As many of the other posts here on this website mentioned, I had the same problem of the dryer not heating up. I removed the front panel (4 screws on each side inside of door - easy - followed instructions) and once off I was able to view the igniter glowing properly so I knew the starter/igniter was not the issue. Everything I read then suggested that it must be the two terminal gas valve coil, and sure enough it was. Ordered part -- got it in literally a couple days -- removed bracket (two screws) put in new coil -- turned it on -- works great. Could not have been easier. This is a great website and would recommend it to everyone who is a Do It Yourselfer.

Really an easy fix. 2 5/16" screws hold the cover on below the dryer door. From here it's easy access to the gas element. 2 more screws for the valve cover and disconnected the attached wires to the gas coil valves. slip the news ones in place, re-attach the wires and install the holder.Tested the dryer and it fired right up. Put panel back in place and the wife is happy it didn't cost us more than just the parts. Yep, she's a lucky girl. ;0)

Found on your site the top two causes of a Dryer not getting hot enough and ordered those parts ( which were delivered quickly).Removed the top two screws that hold the front of the dryer that gives access to the coils and flame sensor assembly after lifting up the top.It took more time to clean up all the lint than to replace the parts.Dryer works great!

I followed the "How to" video on your web site. Most importantly, I cleaned the entire filter area which probably caused the problem as your instructions recommended. I will do that annually going forward. I would recommend your service to anyone.

Thanks to reports from others, I concluded that most likely the gas ignition coils (one or both) were no longer functioning properly. I replaced both with the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit which is about 1/2 the price of either coil individually -- yes,true,go figure! The actual replacement took only about 10 minutes. What was most difficult and took the most time was the removal of the front panel of the cabinet -- this was difficult only because there were no instructions in my owner's manual (or any other source I could find) and it took me awhile to figure it out. Now I could do the whole job in about 20 minutes! The detailed instructions from others as to the process of replacing the coils was invaluable -- I don't know if I would have been able to figure that out on my own. But most important was the information that enabled me to diagnose the problem in the first place. Thank you, all you previous comment contributors.

After reading everyone else's comments I started by pulling out the dryer, unplugging the power and exhaust. Next moved the dryer to an area where I had room to lay it on the back. Then using a flat blade screw driver, I popped the top attached tape to the top so I could lean back the top without having to hold it. Removed the two screws from the front panel and removed the door safety shut off before removed the front panel. Then I layed the dryer on its back. Then reached under the drum, pushed the belt tensioner toward the motor puller to release the tension on the belt. Then slid the belt to the base. Pulled the drum up and out of the cabinet. Next I cleaned all the lint and crud out of the dryer components. To remove the clips that hold the rollers in place, I use 2 small flat blade screw drivers. These are inserted at the back side of the horse show shaped clip between the shaft and the clip. When the two screw drivers are rotated like turning a screw they slide the clip out. Next I used a socket wrench with a #8 metric socket(I didn't have the sae size) and removed the screws holding the drum roller brackets. I simply reversed the procedure to install the new rollers. Since the dryer was on its back, when I put the drum back in, its own weight slipped it in place. Then pulled the belt around the drum and between the motor pulley and the belt tensioner. Holding the belt with one hand, I used the other hand to pushed the belt tensioner in and positioned the belt. Then I stood the unit back upright and put the front cover on, replaced the door safety switch, removing the tape holding the lid and then cloed the lid. Of course I put the dryer back in place, leveled it, and it now runs like brand new. My thanks to every one else who gave me hints that saved be about $450!

I took the front off the cabinet (pry up front of top and remove two screws. Removed the drum, replaced the left rear drum support roller by removing one snap ring on shaft of roller and repacing after installing the new wheel. Reinstalled the drum, the hardest part of the repair was getting the belt back on the drum. It is hard to reach the belt to place it back on the motor. (small space to reach through) Being able to purchase a single wheel from this website saved me $50.00, the local suppier wanted to sell me a whole kit.

1.Removed retaining clips,washers,spacer,and cylinder rollers
2.Removed and replaced support assembly
3.Installed spacer
4.Installed cylinder roller assembly
5.Installed washers and retaining clips
This is my second time ordering parts from PartSelect and I am amazed how fast I recieve my orders, which minimizes the downtime of an appliance that's frequently used.

first I went online and took a look at the schematic and realized that two items can shut the complete unit down and would be easy to check. First I checked the door switch with a multimeter then the high limit non-resettable thermostat. The contacts on the thermostat were open which told me it was bad. Went online to www.partselect.com and found the part really easily. came in when they said it would and it was a perfect match to the original (part numbers on the side and eveything). Make sure you correct the problem that caused the unit to overheat in the first place. IN my case the dryer air passages were full of lint. After a good cleaning put it all back together and it worked better than it has in years.

First I removed the screws of the dryer cover. Next removed the screws holding the dryer drum.

Drilled out the two rivets left from the old glide. Inserted the plastic and postitioned the cushion underneath. Inserted the new glide and drilled a hole in the plastic to accomodate the new rivet. Inserted rivet. Pulled the other end so it was tight holding the cushion and did the other end. Done.

Had to cut the glide 1/4 '' of the width to slide it through the existing slots in the panel.

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.