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Wire Meshing Had Broken Away From The Rubber Framing Tha Was To Hold It Together And Lint Was Bypassing The Screen And Getting Into The Vent Tube.
Opened the dryer door unsrewed the two phillips holding the filter framework in place did a two second swap-out dropped the new unit into place the new unit and refastened it with the 2 screws that held the old one in place . And was drying a load of clothes within two minutes . . Thank you jg
Opened the drayer top and then removed the front panel. Removed the bottom seal from the acr as it was warn. Carefully scarped off the remaining bits of felt from the arc. Applied the supplied adhesive to the top half of the cleaned arc. Placed the seal and held in place with small spring clamps. Let it dry for an hour, then I repeated the process with the bottom seal. I let it dry over night, overkill probably but I wanted it to stay. Replaced the front with new seal and closed up the top. It has been working well since. Thanks for stocking parts that help out homeowner's on tight budgets.
I first removed a vent cover in the back where the idler is located. With pliers I removed the tension off the spring. Next I simply slide the idler off the post. I pulled up on the top panel which opened like a clam shell. I used a flat blade screw driver to separate the front panel from the dryer so I could slide the new belt around the drum. I reversed the steps. All in all it was easy. It took me about 30min including cleanup.
Dryer would not turn on, no power. Since i already have replaced thermal limiter switch, i knew exactly what to do and also how to shorten installation
Remove 2 screws from back of unit, remove top by lifting and pulling up, set aside. Using pliers,needle-nose, remove the 2 wires from switch, then using a magitized philips screw driver, remove 2 screws holding switch to back of unit, replace switch, reassemble everything. 20 minutes, boom, ur done, dry some clothes now
Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!
UNPLUG DRYER (this is key) Removed the top of dryer. used screwdriver and pliers to remove two screws and electrical connections then reinstalled new part stick the magnet behind the part to the back of the dryer to help control the small screws.
No Heat, Dryer Runs, But Right Side Of Timer Would Not Advance, Left Timer Would
I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.
This was the easiest and most inexpensive repair I ever had on a dryer. I did a search on the internet, found "PartSelect.com" searched their web site, found the part I needed (at a very reasonably low price) ordered it, received it within 2 days, opened the box, removed 2 screws from the old part, put the new part in, replaced the 2 screws, inserted the filter screen... and my wife was happy. Thank You PartSelect.com for perfect selection, ordering and service.
Dryer making horrible squeaking sound when running
I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.
Dryer squeak during tumbling, worn front drum glide
Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.
A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.
Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..
(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)
Dryer was snagging clothes between the drum and frame
Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.
Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.