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DDC4498AGL Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DDC4498AGL
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Gas dryer heat would not come on
Unplugged dryer, opened lower panel. Loosened the bolt that holds igniter assembly to gas unit and removed old igniter. Put new igniter in the pinch clamp then (being VERY careful so as not to crack new part) replaced igniter assembly and tightened its bolt firmly. Voilà, ignition!
Parts Used:
Gas Igniter
  • Jeff from Seattle, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench set
40 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeaking Dryer - Rear Drum bearing gone bad
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Jason from Cary, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
32 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.
Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • David from Bedford, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
31 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer would not continuously heat, and took several cycles to dry clothes. The flame would ignite and heat the dryer at first, but then would ignite and go out quickly for the rest of the cycle. I tried the thermostats first with no luck.
I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Ryan from Livonia, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
30 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
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My dryer only heats up at the beginning of cycle so my clothes will not dry.
I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Monique from Mission Viejo, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
31 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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pulley was worn and making noise
removed back panel, released the belt off the pulley and replace pulley as ness. Very easy
Parts Used:
Nut - 12 Pack Idler Pulley Wheel
  • Vinny from Port Chester, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
35 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer squeaked when running
Everything is cleaned as it is removed.

Remove the two screws holding the top down.
Disconnect two wires from door switch.
Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.
Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.
Remove the drum.
Label the wires then remove the heating element.
Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.
Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.
Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element.
Reinstall heating element.
Reconnect wires.

Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.
I will describe how I did it.

Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.
Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.
Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector.
Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.
Start two screws don't tighten them yet.
Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.
Put belt on drum.
Install drum and belt.
Reverse disassembly.
When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.

I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Mark from Garrett, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
29 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum in dryer making uneven grinding noise when turning.
I removed the top by removing the four screws holding the top on. Then I could access the screws holding the front of the dryer (including the door) on.

I removed the back panel so I could slip the belt off the idler pulley. There was also a small panel covering the back of the drum bearing. I removed the clip holding the drum bearing shaft in place. Then the entire drum assembly with the drum bearing was removed by shifting the drum toward the front and lifting it out.

I removed the drum bearing assembly by taking out the three screws holding it to the drum.

Once I received the drum bearing kit I reassembled it in reverse order.

The idler pulley had a clip holding the pulley on the shaft. I removed the clip, took off the old pulley and replaced it with the new one, replacing the clip. Then I rethreaded the drum belt around the motor shaft and ilder pulley and put the panels back on.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit Idler Pulley Wheel
  • Terry from Woodstock, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
28 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
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main motor bearings frozen
Having recently replaced the heating elements and main bearing on the dryer I knew how to take the thing apart, getting to the motor was easy. However, the fan side of the shaft was longer than the original so I had to bend out the metal front panel where the fan is located so it would spin without grinding against the front of the dryer. That done, the rest was easy to finish, mounting bolts on the motor tightened, one last test before putting it back together and all was well. The dryer now works better than it has for a long time.
Parts Used:
Drive Motor Motor Pulley with Screws
  • John from Grand Rapids, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
38 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
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Would not heat sometimes
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Chris from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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pivot bushing was worn out - drum not turning smoothly
First I removed the top of the unit and the front cover which allow me to remove the drum. Then I removed the worn parts, and installed the new parts.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt Rear Drum Bearing Kit Rear Bearing Retaining Bracket
  • Scott from Pennsville, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
25 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
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Needed to change the door opening position
I removed the door and "flipped" it to open right to left. Rather than remove the existing door latch I added the purchased latch on the right side to enable opening the door right to left or left to right.
Parts Used:
Door Latch
  • Robyn from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
23 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs)
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
place.
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!

The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Richard from Hedgesville, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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door latch was broken
Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !
Parts Used:
Door Latch
  • Kate from MULLINS, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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Replaced two parts in the gas heater assembly
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • L R from Carmel, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the DDC4498AGL
16 - 30 of 340