DDC4497AFL Dryer - Instructions

Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.

First i removed the lower rear inspection plate to see what the problem was.
next i removed the screws in the front top panel.
next i lift the top back,the rear hinges held it in place.
next i removed the bolts that held the front panel in place,but before i removed the panel i removed the wires that were connected to the front elements and disconnected then,
next i removed the front panel,then i place the new dryer belt over the dryer drum,but first you have to rise the drum up a little to get the belt under it.
next i put all the front panels back in place,make sure you reconnect the wires that you removed earlier.
next i moved to the back panel, there i position the belt over the dryer drum,then i place the belt over the motor drive pulley, then i pull down the tension bar roller to the left and place the belt over it.Then i replace the rear panel in place.plug in the power core and turn it on. finished. After over 35 years this is the first time i had to replace the belt,matter of fact this is the first time i had to replace anything on this dryer, washers will that is a different story. but the dryer runs great maybe for another 30 +years LOL.

watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!

snapped in new latch

Removed the rear access panel (8 - 10 bolts), checked the pullys. Opened the dryer door, removed 4 allen screws at top and lifted the top of the dryer (like a hood on a car). Removed a screw (phillips) on each side (inside) pulled open the front and worked the belt around the drum. Placed belt onto pullys, plugged in checked for proper rotation of drum then unplugged and installed screws and bolts. - Fairly easy, saved a bunch from a service call. I also found 15+ years of lint inside the dryer. Vacumed and cleaned the inside -it even dries faster! Sorry Honey - No new dryer this year - Now can I go hunting?

Replacing the bearing and belt on a GE DDE6350BBL dryer

My belt broke and landed up in the bottom of the case, therefore no problem removing it.
Having to replace the belt I decided to renew the bearing at the same time.
Detailed instructions, with comments follow for those of you attempting this repair.
Most important, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING WORK
Take careful note as you take things apart of what they looked like before you started.

First unplug the appliance. Always unplug the appliance before doing any repair.
With the appliance stood in a space where it is accessible all round begin.
Open the front door and remove the small Phillips screws located at the top of the front panel.
( You have to look upwards to see them, normally four screws )
The cabinet top can now be lifted carefully upwards. It is a good idea to use a piece of
2 x 4 to hold this in a raised position for the time being.
Inside the cabinet on the right at the top, behind the door open switch, remove the two electrical slide connectors from the switch.
Remove the hex headed screws securing the bottom kicking plate, ( four screws )
Remove the two longer hex screws securing the bottom of the front panel, ( two screws )
Look inside the cabinet, each side towards the top there is one hex headed screw securing the top of the front panel to the sides ( two screws )
Hint head of screw faces back of cabinet.
The front panel can now be removed by lifting slightly up and away from the rest of the case. Do not try to move it too far, just turn it through ninety degrees and lean it against something heavy. Hopefully placed there to lean it on before you started.
Using a torx screw bit, remove the three torx screws securing the drum onto the bearing.
( A noise will be heard like something dropping, we will take care of this later.)
Lift the drum out of the case and set it aside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the bearing to the casing.
Lift out the complete old bearing assembly.
Now is the time to thoroughly clean all the parts, before reassembly.
A Hoover with a crevice tool is good for removing most of the lint in and around the case. In severe cases it might be necessary to use a wire brush to loosen the lint.
Look in the bottom of the case and find the spacer, which fell off when you removed the drum. It is circular with a large hole in the centre and six holes around the side.
It is a good idea if you are adventurous, to remove the slide connectors for the heater elements and remove this assembly for cleaning. If you are not adventurous then cleaning it while installed is possible but be careful of the wire spirals, they are fragile

Helpful hint.
At this point take one of the old screws, which secured the bearing into the house.
Take this screw to a good hardware store and ask for two extra screws three inches long with the same thread. Make certain the thread is the same. Bring your new screws home, put them in a vice and saw off the heads, thus leaving two pieces of threaded rod three inches long of the correct thread. Doing this will save you a lot of aggravation later.

To replace the bearing, assemble the new bearing with a small quantity of high heat grease applied to the bearing surfaces. The old circlip can be reused without problem as long as it was not damaged when removing it.

Hint the new bearing is supplied with an 'o' ring in the groove where the circlip goes, this 'o' ring has to be removed before assembly.

If you have removed the heater assembly for cleaning it should be reinstalled now.
Install the new bearing in the casing using the four new screws provided.
Carefully screw your two threaded rods into two of the three holes in the bearing surface.
Locate the spacer plate onto the threaded rods and slide back until it is in the correct position.
Hint, it will only go on one way round, with all the holes lining up correctly.
Place the new belt loosely around the drum before it is installed in

After removing the front panel with a 1/4" nut driver; I removed the drum, rear shield and spacer using a 3/8" ratchet, 6" extension and torx socket for the three drum screws. I then removed the 4 screws on the rear heat guard panel to get to the rear bearing assembly. I removed the rear bearing assembly and replaced the plastic bearing and then re-assembled it. Total time was less than 30 minutes. Now the problems began. Trying to line up the drum to the bearing plate was very difficult due to the bulk of the drum. After some frustration time I devised a way to do it. I took 3 1/12 inch #10-24 screws and cut the heads off. Then I screwd them into to bearing plate as guide pins. I then backed them out after installing each of the mounting screws. It worked very well. Next as I have large arms and hands Iworked form at least 30 minutes to attached the drive belt to the moto and idler pulley. I finally got it on by attaching the belt first around the motor then pulled the idler arm down to engage it over the belt. Took a lot of positioning my hand correctly to get enough leverage to pull the idler arm down far enough. All in all not to complicated and my wife just won't part with this dryer that really dries clothes quickly.I glad I took on the task to repair it and my hats go off to PartSelect.com for quickly and correctly filg mypart order. Hope you have the same success.

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

I changed the two coils for the gas valve and the dryer is now working fine thanks

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

Removed from lower panel. Just popped it open
with a screw driver.
Unplugged dryer and shut off gas by the gas shut-off valve.
Loacated the gas igniter element and removed it
by pulling up. It is only healed in place by a metel
like a clothes pin.
Using caution slid new unit down and into the pinching device.
Plugged in power cord and the gas.
Turned the unit on and it worked !!!
This was worth the try. Better than buying a new
dryer with the economy the way it is now.

Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on