DCD330EY0AC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

took the top off, then the front,there 2 screws that hold the front on. there's a yellow thing on the front took that off, it is held on with one screw. on the back of the dryer on the bottom is a metal plate take that off, to get to the belt take that off. then there' 3 screws in the drum, take them off ,then you can slid the drum out. then take 2 screws off the bearing bracket, that's it. easy

*****I HIGHLY RECOMMEND buying both bottom felt and top felt with glides and replacing them as a pair. Do it now!!****

First I removed the screws on the top of the control panel and lifted the control panel free. Next I pried the top cover off the drier. Reaching down inside the drier, I removed 2 screws holding the front panel in place (one on each side of the drum, screw heads are INSIDE the appliance) Then the front panel popped off toward the front, leaving the drum dangling inside the cabinet. I removed the old top felt and glides one piece) which had nothing left to them. I used a rag soaked with Acetone and a putty knife to remove the old adhesive and clean the mating surface. Following the supplied instructions (that came with the part) I glued the new piece in place. I reassembled the dryer and tested it out - I recommend giving all internal air ducts a good vacuuming while the dryer is apart - and everything seemed OK for a week. Then another article of clothing fell prey to the dryer, becoming lodged between the drum and front panel again. I suspect the culprit is the space BELOW the drum where the bottom felt is worn much more than the brand new felt just installed. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND buying both bottom felt and top felt with glides and replacing them as a pair.

Hardest part was getting the top off which ended up being quite easy, once I knew how. At the front of dryer, between the top and the cabinet, there are two spring clips that hold the top to the bottom. I could feel them with the putty knife but wasn't sure how to release them. Push on them with the blade of the stiff putty knife ... push hard and they will release. When the top was off I could see the screws that held the front. I unscrewed those, had easy access to the front glide that needed to be replaced. Pulled the old one off, followed the directions to glue the new one on, gave it about an hour to dry, reassembled and away we went. No more snagging.

Take the top off and front off and disconnect the belt and lift the drum out and there it is . Easy and alot cheaper then new dryer and works like new .

I like to fix , i have time and i just give me the chance to try , and i did it , i wish to pay less for the parts , but was a good feeling when the problem fixed

This was done to a washer/dryer that is in a closet and was worked on in place and not removed so it was all done through the front. Its a good idea to vacuum the inside out before putting it all back together. 1.Remove all of the screws that hold down the top of the dryer and remove top. 2. Remove the front slanted panel below the controls then Remove the two small black screws holding the plastic inserts on the left and right sides of the controls panel plus the two silver screws that will allow it to drop so that you can access the tabs that hold the front section on. 3. Remove screws holding the front section with the door on. The last two will be tabs at bottom that were hidden by control panel. Unplug connector and remove front. 4. Note how belt is positioned around motor and tensioner before removing belt.(just push tensioner until belt is loose enough to slide off of drum to remove belt). 5.Slide out drum and remove old bearing and replace with new one. Be especially careful tightening the three screws that attach the bearing as they are easy to strip. 6. To remove the bushing at the back of the dryer you will remove the two screws. but you will need to hold the clip on the back of the dryer or it will drop when the screws are removed. When re-installing MAKE SURE not to lose your ball bearing that the drum bearing will rest against. I used a strong small magnet to hold the ball bearing against the back of the nylon cradle bushing so I wouldn't lose it when re-installing the bushing and it worked great. Once the nylon bushing was back in place I lubed it thoroughly and put everything back in reverse order. I usually would not fill out one of these do-it-yourself forms but the instructions that are already listed with this part are completely different from what I encountered up to the actual bearing and bushing replacement. Hope this helps.

It took about 20 minutes, first I popped the top off using a flat screwdriver in my leatherman and removed the wires on the door switch then two screws holding the front on, and then I removed the drum which took a little longer because the belt tensioner was difficult to release because of limited space. Removed old bearing (ball and socket) and replaced with new one. I then reassembled in reverse order. Working great. . .

Lifted top and removed front panel and cleaned old glue off. Put new glue on put seal used spring loaded cloth pins to hold till glue dried

Squeaking was coming from the back of the drum, not the glides. The hardest part was trying to figure out how to pull the drum out. With a little extra tug, the back pin of the drum lifted out of the socket. That was the cause of the sqeak. Just cleaned it up and added some grease and good as new. I noticed the front glides were worn and replaced it.

I Replased a belt and germetic lower and uper belt

I ordered the rear bearing kit from the local supplier here in Marsh Harbour, Abaco the Bahamas. Delivery for the kit was 3 to 4 weeks from my local supplier.NOT PARTSELECT.
While waiting I found this site and after reading the VERY helpful instructions from your customers, I realised that I would probably need additional parts, top and bottom front felt seals, maybe a new drive belt.
I ordered these online and had the parts deliverd to a friends address in West Palm Beach Florida. The parts arrived in about 2 days. My wife was already there and brought the parts back.

Installation was very straight forward. Read the other installation reports and you will not have a problem.
The only thing I can add is, DO NOT LOOSE THE SMALL BALL BEARING. I did and it took me about an hour to find it.
My suggestion is to do a dry run installation of the bracket WITH OUT the small ball bearing. Tape the backing plate?that keeps the ball breaing inplace to the outside of the back panel with duct tape so that the screw hole will line up. Once this is done put some grease (Supplied with the kit) in the hole on the nylon bracket and attach with the two screws, do not over tighten. Grease up the area where the rear bearing shaft support will sit.

Installation of the rear bearing shaft support was straight forward. This is on the dryer drum. Extra hands are must for this.

I was very pleased with Partselct.
Dryer works like new.

Removed the Drum and replaced the part....

Removed top of dryer, took screws out of back of dryer, pulled drum off front of dryer, removed old belt and slid new one in place. Reattached drum to front and slid belt in place only to find it was the wrong size. Called an appliance repair man, he said happens more ften than not.

I took the top and front off the dryer. I then took the screws out of the drum and removed the drum. I then took the old bearing out and put the new one in.

Depending on the condition of the bearing there are two methods described here to change the bearing, the first (and easiest) is if the bearing saddle was not damaged to the point of not allowing the bearing to lift out of it and the second is for when the saddle is damaged.
There are a few items common to both methods so I will start with them and with the belt release.

Parts Needed
Bearing and Shaft kit. Do not bother replacing just bearing or just shaft, do the kit as it is the bearing/shaft and saddle and comes with new ball bearing and grease.
Belt. if going through all this trouble replace the belt while there.

Tools needed:
8mm open/box wrench
good philips head screwdriver
a stubby philips screwdriver
putty knife or wide flat screwdriver
some duct tape

ACCESS

First, unplug the power to the unit and shut the gas off. You'll be working around the motor and burner so this is needed.
Then using the putty knife or flat screwdriver remove the top panel by depressing the latches in the horizontal seam on the front side approx 2" in from each corner.
remove the panel and set it out of the way.
Now unhook the door sensor wires and mark or store them in a manner so you will remember which side of the switch they plug into.
On each corner approx 6" down there is a philips screw, remove these and tilt the front panel forward (to clear the drum and duct seals) then lift upwards to remove the door panel.
Set this out of the way too.

REMOVE BELT FROM MOTOR

The motor pulley and tensioner are hard to see but can be done blind just by feel, they are on the lower right front side of the unit. Reach in on each side of the motor and with left hand push the tensioner towards the right side while with right hand pulling down on the tensioner spring (its a weak spring) to release it from the metal tab on bottom.
Once this is down the tensioner will move to the left and the belt can be removed from the drive puller easily.

At this point you can slide the belt forward and remove it and slide new belt on if you are only doing a belt replace.
Install procedures will be listed below.

REMOVING DRUM

FOR NON-DAMAGED SADDLE

If the saddle is not damaged you can now jerk up (not too much force) on the rear of the drum and this will pop the shaft bearing end out of the saddle. Then carefully slide the drum forward through the cabinet to a palce you can access it easy.
Remove the shaft and bearing from the drum by removing the three phillips screws whose heads are inside the drum.
Now remove the saddle from the cabinet by removing the 2 bolts (8mm head) that go trough the rear, there is a ball bearing in the saddle that may be useful to save in case you drop the new one and there is a screwplate on exterior rear that will fall when you remove the final bolt.

FOR DAMAGED SADDLE

If the saddle is damaged (distorted) the procedure is a bit different and quite a bit harder, but not awful bad. It adds about 20 to 60 minutes extra (depends on how the screws come out) to the whole job.
First remove the drum from the shaft by unscrewing the three philips head screws from inside the drum and, like in prior method, carefully pull the drum through the front of the cabinet and set it aside.
Then to remove the saddle you may be able to remove the two 8mm head bolts by flexing the plate to the side and loosening each bolt a bit while alternating. However I had to actually move the burner ducts a bit to get at mine as I could not turn the left side bolt.
This is where the stubby screwdriver is needed, there are 4 philips screws whose heads are hidden by the seals on the ducts, by folding the seal back a bit you can access them. I was able to just do the three at the top, left, and lower left and slide the duct a bit to allow wrench access to the bolt. I did not have to remove the lowest screw myself but you may need to.
Always make sure to not bend the tin too much and this will hurt heat movement through the system.
Once you have the saddle removed, rememberi