If you're dis-assembling the dryer panels to remove the drum to acess the bearing located at the rear of the drum,don't hesitate to buy a idler pulley kit and a belt.It's easier to change them now,while it's apart. besides,their all pretty much in the same state of wear! In lew of prying my son away from the computer,an extra set of hands is a help, I used a scrap piece of 4x4 with a 1 inch whole bored in one side to place the bearing end into to steady it to get the screws started. otherwise you need to have 6ft.arms! re-assembly wasn't bad, a magnetic tipped #3 screw driver eliminates the frustration of dropping panel screws down inside the partially assembled body.
Gas dryer was not getting hot and smelled like gas inside drum
Removed lower front panel and then front including door (need to remove the top to access screws.) Replaced both the ingiter and heat detector. The tricky part was getting access to the long tunnel-like bracket that houses the igniter. Washer and Dryer are in a tight cutout space in very small laundry room.
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
Actually putting on a knob is self-explanatory. But wanted to say your company had the best price and reaction (delivery time). Great job by PartSelect!
Deflector has 3 bolts attaching it. They require a star wrench. Had to purchase same to do the repair. Removed the bolts(they are sheet metal type screws(bolts). Installed the deflector and started dryer. Loud rubbing sound noted. Shut off and checked the drum and noted it was not running concentrically. Removed deflector and the found the 3 screws actually retained the drum to drive. Had to make alignment pins to allow proper alignment of the drive, drum, and deflector. Once the pins were used during installation of the deflector everything worked correctly. Turned on dryer and it operated normally. Had I had the proper tools the repair would probably have taken 30 minutes or less.
Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!
First I had to remove the top by taking out the two screws inside the door. Then I removed the front by taking out the two screws holding it from the inside. I needed to remove the drum and to the the belt off, I removed the left side. It has several screws down the back, two on the bottom and two in the front. I removed the belt and drum. I took out the old sleeve bearing. Part of it was broken off into the hole it goes into. I then had to remove the plate that holds the heating element. Once that was done, I put the new bearing on and replaced the drum slides on the from section. Then I reversed the process to reassemble. Not too bad.
Remove the two screws holding the top down. Disconnect two wires from door switch. Remove the two hex screws holding the front on. Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt. Remove the drum. Label the wires then remove the heating element. Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing. Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element. Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element. Reinstall heating element. Reconnect wires.
Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours. I will describe how I did it.
Unscrew bearing from inside of drum. Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole. Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector. Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram. Start two screws don't tighten them yet. Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down. Put belt on drum. Install drum and belt. Reverse disassembly. When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.
I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
Drum in dryer making uneven grinding noise when turning.
I removed the top by removing the four screws holding the top on. Then I could access the screws holding the front of the dryer (including the door) on.
I removed the back panel so I could slip the belt off the idler pulley. There was also a small panel covering the back of the drum bearing. I removed the clip holding the drum bearing shaft in place. Then the entire drum assembly with the drum bearing was removed by shifting the drum toward the front and lifting it out.
I removed the drum bearing assembly by taking out the three screws holding it to the drum.
Once I received the drum bearing kit I reassembled it in reverse order.
The idler pulley had a clip holding the pulley on the shaft. I removed the clip, took off the old pulley and replaced it with the new one, replacing the clip. Then I rethreaded the drum belt around the motor shaft and ilder pulley and put the panels back on.
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. When the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm. I replaced it and the unit worked.
I bought a natural gas orfice for a dryer that needed to be change from Lp gas. I was able to change the parts,it was very helpful that there was a drawing in the package showing the location of the parts that need to be changed. This was a used dryer I purchased and I did not have an owners manual to refer to. Everything went very well, Thank you.
I removed the door and "flipped" it to open right to left. Rather than remove the existing door latch I added the purchased latch on the right side to enable opening the door right to left or left to right.
