Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
broken door clip
After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!
Screeching dryer followed by later clunking when roller went
I pretty much followed a lot of the earlier postings on partselect.com that provided encouragement to pursue replacing this part on my 17 year old dryer (sorry, money is tight these days and I prefer repair to $800 replacement).
I'd like to add that I borrowed a pair of snap-ring pliers from work which made removal and later securing of roller onto shaft much easier and probably avoided a lot of knuckle bruising and cursing.
I erred though in a couple of places during the replacement. Disassembly took about 20 minutes. However, when I re-assembled I had mistakenly already put the roller onto the shaft before trying to put the drum back in. That isn't possible so I had to remove (an initial groan but only a few extra minutes in the end) the roller from the shaft, then reposition the drum and then the roller back on the shaft.
I also decided to replace the belt while I was in there and I should have taken a picture or made a drawing of the belt route before I took it off since I was later left pondering how the heck to snake the belt onto the shaft and also the tensioner. A quick trip to the internet though showed me a similar route and reminded me how to route it.
I'd also like to add to be cognizant of the wires on the door and front panel when disassembling.
Anyone with any sense of mechanical ability and a little common sense ought to be able to do this repiar.
Very simple repair. Remove front panel, door, drum etc. Try to keep everything seperated, screws etc. I put lockjaws on the back to get the nut off the front. Make sure to check the housing for "melted on" blower wheel residue. Easy enough to remove. I checked with my local parts dealer he wanted twice the price and needed to order it (at least a days wait). PartSelect sent the exact same part in a day and a half. Put everything back the same way I removed. Hardest part is the drum and belt. While you have everything apart don't forget to clean the thermastats etc. PartsSelect was quicker and cheaper.
Drying time exceeded 1 to 2 hours and lint was damp on lint screen
Removed two screws on lower front dryer panel with 5/16" socket and wrench. Removed three screws and plastic filter dryer screen vent with 1/4" socket allowing easy access to upper limit thermostat switch located on side of igniter flame assembly tunnel. Removed two screws attaching limit switch and disconnected two wires. Replaced with new limit switch and reconnected wires. Reassembled dryer. Works fine. Drying time for regular items such as towels is now less than 1 hour.
Dyer Blower went bad a dime fell in and wore it out
The repair looked simple enough until it came time to take the out wheel off. Because you can not hold the motor shaft(and the wheel screws on) it was necessary to remove the whole motor assembly and then grind the out shaft down, then use a small screwdriver to take the remaining shaft off. I must say it was nice to recieve the part in as fast as I did we live in a very rural area and things like that are very hard to find
Dryer would start loud humming noise 20-30min into cycle-rear bearing going bad
Unplug Dryer. Remove 2 5/16in hex screws fm lower panel,3 51/6in hex screws to vent duct. Remove 2 1/4in hex screws to thermostat. Remove 7 1/4in hex screws to blower cover and 2 5/16in hex screws holding base footings.Use adj. wrench to hold rear nut on motor shaft, use7/8in socket to remove fan frm motor shaft. Remove 3 5/16in hex screws holding fan housing to motor mount. Lift-up on spring tensioned belt pulley to remove belt. Pull motor & mount out [wires are layed toward front allowing removal]. Use 6in flat tip screwdriver to unsnap both front/rear motor clamps.Pinch plastic end clamps and remove motor electrical connector.Motor installation is reverse. For belt removal,remove 2 5/16in hex screws to door panel [unhook 2 wires to upper RT rear to door switch].Remove 4 5/16in hex screws to front bulkhead panel.Allow drum to sag IN PLACE [removal not required to replace belt],note belt location and slide old belt off and new one on Replace Bulheald and door panel [re-attach door switch wires].Complete install by lifting belt pulley and feeding new belt into place. Hand rotate drum to ensure proper belt allignment and tracking. Replace lower panel. Vacuum interior as necessary. Parts delivered in 3days and fit perfectly.
First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!
removed the bottom panel. then the door. unscrewed the 4 screws, removed duct and replaced. parts came fast and fit just right! no issues at all! I recomend Parts select as an appliance vendor for parts.
Used spackle knife to pop clips on top of dryer. Raised lid of dryer to expose belt. Next used nut driver to disassembly screws from front door and then base ( bag them. Labeled bag and marked inside of dryer with corresponding number to match hardware) disassembled dryer door latch switch and marked red + and white no marking. ( Middle connection not used) removed dryer clean out screen and then removed dryer face next removed dryer blower cover no hardware ( just lift upwards see side clips) opened up side of dryer to gain more access (spread apart manually) removed belt and marked where belt was on tumbler postion with permanent marker used 2 car hold down cords to hold drum in place with back of dryer next removed belt from idler (note to make a drawing so that you know how to wrap this around the idler otherwise the belt will appear to be too large. Remember to reconnect spring. Next step was to removed drum rollers. . . This required a retaining ring pliers cost about $15. I replaced the snap retaining rings. This was easy but requires that you pull the drum forward about 4 inches to position. Next replaced belt and reassembled. Project was a success and runs like new. . . . Saved me $129 service call plus $65 parts without maytag mark-up plus additional labor for the job $130. My cost $65 + $15 tool (retaining ring pliers) $80 versus $259 + ( $65 *50%)ark up on parts) $80 versus $356 -- thanks parts select for saving me $276 during the christmas holiday.
When the dryer was on it would still tumble, but made an aweful sound
My son n law took the fron off the dryer, whilw I looked on the inertnet to locate whatever part we would find to be in need of. He pulled the front panel off and the drum out to dicover it was the bracket and glide. They were easily replaced by popping the bracket out and snapping th new one in then placing the guide on it proper spot.
This amana dryer didn't have the lower panel with screws. Instead, I removed the brackets in the back and found that the whole top would separate from the rest of the body (except for wiring, of course.) There seemed to be screws holding the top to the base in the front, but these are just guide posts. There are two spring clips in the front that you can pop loose with a putty knife.
Then there are two screws inside that fasten the front to the rest of the frame. Once I removed these, and the electrical connections to the door switch and the light bulb, the whole front came of just by tilting it forward and pulling the front panel up off of metal tabs on the base.
The rest of the repair went smoothly per other descriptions.
Dryer started making a terrible sound, when my son opened up the appliance he found that the Blower wheel was broken and the housing was full of debris.
My son will discribe how he did the repair. First I opened the top, then I removed the front with a 1/4 inch ratchet and socket. I took the cover off the blower housing with a nut driver. Used the appropriate socket and a 1/2 inch ratchet, and an adjustable wrench to hold the motor shaft and removed the Blower wheel. I replaced the broken Blower Wheel and put all it back together. Our dryer is now working great and there are no unwanted sounds emanating from within. We are very happy with PartSelects promptness and that we recieved the correct part as ordered. PartSelect website was easy to navigate. We plan if the need arises to do so again in the future. Thankyou Frank and Rodney
Being my lousy Maytag washer died THE PREVIOUS DAY, spewing water, etc. and I had rushed out and bought a new washer, I was determined not to replace the dryer (though I now am a serious NON_FAN of Maytag).
I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.
PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.
Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.
