CSX24GRSBWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

This is a side by side freezer/refrigerator, nearly 30 years old. The repair was very quick and easy. 1. Remove two screws from top bracket. There is no cover for the top hinge on this older model. (2) Lift off door and set on kitchen table. (3) Remove two screws holding bottom door hinge. (4) remove two screws hold the cam and shims on the bottom of the door. (5) replace the broken cam on the door, and the bottom hinge assembly. (6) Replace the door on the bottom hinge. (7) Re-attach the top hinge screws, making sure the door is parallel to the freezer door. It took about 10 minutes to do all of the above. Best yet, I ordered the kit about 10am on a Monday, and the parts arrived, normal delivery, before noon the next day.PS- I used petroleum jelly to grease the hinge before replacing the door. The only tool I needed was a nutdriver.

Replaced valve with only one difficulty - the electrical spade connectors were different size. Did not come with adapters, as described on the web site.

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

took the old gasket off. cleaned the area were the old gasket was,also cleaned the metal screwdown brakets. put the new gasket in hot water to make it easier to work with. then put the metal in place on the new gasket. place the new gasket in place on the door. then put 1 screw in the middle of the long sides, then did the all 4 corners. then only snug the rest of the screws at first. take your putty knife and slide it under thegasket to seat it squarely on the door. tighten and done.

I took off the front cover of the icemaker assembly and found that the gears were not meshing properly and therefore slipping. I removed the front panel and found that the white plastic cam unit under the large gear wheel had disengaged from the hole in the front plate which is why the gears were slipping. I refitted the cam and wheel and it worked fine but stopped again for the same reason the next day. As the plate appeared to be buckled somehow (not user repairable) and, as the unit was leaking and pooling water (which froze) in the collection unit, I decided to change the whole icemaker.

Ordered about 1300 on a Thursday, it arrived the next day at noon and was fitted straight away. As others have mentioned, the extension cable required to fit into my old fridge made it quite cumbersome however with a bit of juggling and persuasion, I got it to fit into the cut out corner of the ice container so it is completely out of the way. Job done in about 35 minutes, making ice in an hour.

Your Video really made it easy, showing the actual replacment of the part. However I did have one problem, which was I could not unplug the panel just by pulling on the plugs. A locking catch is on each plug so I just moved the panel out of the way.

Follow instruction on the video you provided

Removed ice buscket from freezer, removed 4 screws holding front cover on, set aside old ice bucket, set new ice bucket in place and reinstalled screws, putback in freezer, done. Maybee ten minutes.

shimed the door up to its proper level. removed plastic cam from bottom of door with a socket disconnected the water line fitting and clamp. with a nut driver removed the hinge assy from cabinet being careful i sled the hinge assy off the plastic water line being sure not to kink the line, sled the new hinge assy back on the water line and mounted the new hinge assy to the cabinet and connected the water line back up and turned on the water and checked for leaks, all went well. place the bottom grill cover back on.

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall. I turned the water supply valve off. With a nut driver I removed the screws holding the flexible cover on the back of the refrigerator, and set it aside. Next, again using the nut driver, I removed the screw form the clamp holding the copper tubing to the back of the refrigerator. Using a 1/2 inch open end wrench I took the copper tube off the water valve. Then, using the nut driver I removed the screw which holds the valve in place. I then unplugged the electrical wiring,and removed the two flexible tubes. I pulled the compression nuts from the flexible tubes, and inserted them into the new water valve, re-connecter the electrical wiring plugs, mounted the new valve to the refrigerator, reconnected the copper tubing to the new valve, turned the water supply valve on to be sure there was no leaks, secured the copper tubing to the refrigerator replaced the flexible cover, and then moved the refrigerator back in it's original position.

My wife removed the drawer and the glass shelf. Unscrewed the broken rail and screwed in the new one. Replaced the glass shelf and the drawer and she was done.

Removed the knob, covers and unplugged the old and installed the new control. Piece of cake.

I turned off the power and water supply to the refrigerator Pulled fridge out,found leak at water valve. Removed valve,got on internet found partsselect and was able to match it up by model and picture. It was a lot easier than I expected it to be, thanks to the pictures. I ordered the part on Sunday night and got it Tuesday. Unbelievable. Put it in in about 10 minutes and drinking cold water with ice cubes again. The fridge wasnt down long enough to acually run out of ice. the fridge is 12 years old and keeping its maintenance low is a priority. If I had to hire a repair service we would probably thought seriously about replacing it.

Followed directions in your video. Very helpful. Be certain to pay strict attention to how old part is removed. Had a little trouble replacing door on lower pin/hinge. Helps to have a little assistance. Good suggestion from another customer: get the kit.

Removal was easy. The problem was that the old hinge had screws approximately 3/4 inch apart. The new hinge assembly had screws 1 inch apart. The threaded backing plate matched the 3/4 inch spaced old hinge but would not line up with the new one. There was a hole in the refrigerator frame but no way to hold the screw from the back. I had to fine a bolt and nut that would fir and still be heavy enough to hold the weight of the door. This repair took place at my cabin--miles from any hardware store. I found a long enough bolt and nut but it was a little too big for the hole in the hinge. I had to drill the hole in the hinge out so it would fit. Trying to reach the back of the bolt with a nut was a problem. I used tape wrapped backwards on my finger to hold the nut and then reached around to start the bolt into the nut. It too a few tries but I finally got it. Bottom screw was not a problem. It took about an hour and a half to fix the door but it works fine now.