CSX20BAXAWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Checked continuity of defrost timer and marked to make sure was cycling. When checked continuity of top defrost tube-it was fine but, soon as looked at bottom tube could see problem. Tube was black, no continuity, and left side of tube was separated from the rubber connector, thought obviously water entered tube during defrost and shorted unit and since wired in series with bottom unit not working would not allow power to reach top unit. New replacement kit simple to install-4 phillips screws hold the 2 units in place- thermostat clips to top coil and wiring runs along the coils to top with thermostat- connect 3 prong plug to existing hook up and put on cover plate with 2 cap screws and 2 phillips the job was completed, IMMEDIATE RESULTS. Suggestion- even though tubes are available separately the time to rewire into the existing harness to save couple $$ is not worth it- the other unit will have lost some continuity in comparison to new install so will have tendency to go bad quickly-spring for the difference and have piece of mind for many years to come for replacement of this part. 2 day standard shipping by ground right to door and the little woman thought I was superman of repairs. Since this model was built by GE for Sears- check on Sears was double and inquire in tech repair was double again-Part Select is quality,speed in processing and makes tight budget go the distance.

Did not do the repair because the unit arrived damaged. The packaging was in good condition. The plastic around the plug in shattered, and some of the plastic was inside the motor. Very good, and fast on adjusting the order.

Had to defrost a bit and then was able to remove rear freezer panel by simply removing the 2 screws holding it in place.
Old motor easily removed from its mounting bracket. and replaced with the new. Had to use the two wires sent with the motor. I clipped off the male connectors and joined them with wire splicers to the black and red wires clipped from the old motor. Then reinstalled.
The replacement motor works great. I was afraid the old fan blade might not fit but it slid on perfectly.

Empty freezer;
Remove shelves and ice trays;
Unscrew and remove the rear vertical panel;
Unscrew and remove fan housing;
Unscrew and remove fan from fan housing;
Fan blade slides off the motor shaft without tools.
Reverse order to reassemble with new fan motor.

I did have to use the wire extensions that were included as the replacement motor had the electric connections in a different location from the original motor.

Overall, this was an easy replacement.

Kenmore 24 cu.ft. Side by Side Refrigerator. The bottom cam on the fresh food side of our refrigerator broke causing the door to stay open about 4 inches. We had to lift the door up about an inch to close it. We removed the top bracket cover by removing one screw with a screwdriver. We then removed two screws with a ratchet and socket, to remove the top bracket, which allowed us to lift the door up and off of the refrigerator. We removed two screws with a socket to remove the Door Cam and Shim. We replace the Shim, and Door Cam with the two screws. Make sure you line the Cam up with the hole it goes over, and tighten it up. Place the door over the bottom bracket, and replace and adjust the top bracket and cover.

turn breaker off first then use thin blade screwdriver and plastic pry bar to remove light socket and switch there was plenty of wire so work was easy to install at both ends

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

First I diagnosed the problem being a defrost timer as the symtoms are the same as the heater elements. I installed the timer and it worked great for about a week until the frost build up on the evaporator became too much again and then the symtoms returned. I then checked the heater elements and found that both were bad PLUS two clips to the elements were corroded. I then ordered the 2 heater elements. There is more than 1 heater element. Make sure you measure the length of each and then use the graph picture with "Parts Select" on the new ones before you order. There is about a 2" in length difference. Also one comes in a kit with thermostat and wires. Wrong for me. I really wanted that unit as I needed the harness for the bad terminals but it was the wrong heaters and it also came with a new thermostat. Luckly I did not order that one but did order a new thermostat to make sure I did not have to go through this ordeal again. When the parts came I had already replaced the terminals and was ready to go when FedX came. Just make sure you check your heaters before just buying the defrost timer as it may keep you from going back to redo your repair. Just doing your home work before ordering may save you much time in your repair. "PARTS SELECT" was one day on both orders and I just ordered standard shipping. They are great to do business with.

Removed guard at bottomof frig. Located timer & performed tests. Manually rotated timer motor until defrost cycle start. Watched timer for several hours. Timer did not come out of defrost.. Rotated timer more until compressor started. Cooled fine several days then started to get warm again. Manually defrosted and started compressor again. Ordered part. Followed wiring diagram on timer for push on lugs. Frig now back to normal operation.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

The refrigerator was no longer cooling and it was suggested by my father that it could be our defrost timer as he has owned many Hotpoint refrigerators in his lifetime and he said the defrost timer was always the problem he had with them when they were not cooling properly. I removed the cover and unplugged the defrost timer, ordered a new timer through this website and installed it by plugging it where the old timer was, replaced the cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. The refrigerator is now cooling again and just in time for Christmas.

First I removed the top hinge of the refrigerator door and then lifted it off the bottom assembly. I had to turn the door on its side to work on the bottom where the broken part was located. I unscrewed the bottom assembly and replaced the broken part with the new door cam. Put it all back together and now the door closes but must be manually pushed to close. When the door was working properly it would shut automatically when released from any position. I think I need to install an additional part - maybe a shim? to make it close automatically. That will be another story.
This was a fairly simple jog to do but since I did not have the proper tools it did take me longer than usual to remove the bolts. I'm happy I did it myself and saved a big repair bill! Thanks to the people at PartSelect.com.

I knew that the compressor was cooling because the freezer was half-working. The back wall was frozen-up and found that the iced-up coils where blocking the air circulation. So even if the fan was running, there was no air circulation. Hence the deforst cycle was not working.