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Door wouldn't stay closed & was out of alignment
This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two. 1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins. 2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge. 3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge. 4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed on floor. 5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge. 6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place. 7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate. 8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate. 9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge. 10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door. 11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door. NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again. 12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.
Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.
Was able to pull the door up to the normal position, then blocked in place with 2 2x4's. Easily removed the hinge assemble and the door closing cam, which had broken in two. bolted on the replacement parts in 10 mionutes and the door was a good as new: peice of cake!!!
Lets start with the hard part: Convince wife to get a couple of her girl friends to go to a movie and see the Reader,after that visit a cafe or pub (remembered years ago the English Patient). Drove to get a six pack,removed the back panel-2 min, set a hair drier to position, had a couple beers , removed the defrost heater unit 1 min. replaced it 1 min. back panel1 min,enjoyed the rest of the afternoon,finished the beer Killed two birds with one stone Zoltan L Petho
Refridgerator quit cooling because the defrost element had burned out and the refridgerator coils were totally covered with ice.
I defrosted freezer. Removed cover from back of freezer. Removed screws from element disconected wires. I connected wires to new element installed screws and reinstalled cover.
Removed the cover for the evaporater coils and let them defrost. Then took the old heating element out by removing two screws on the bottom element and two screws on the top element. Unplugged it and removed it from the unit. Then repeated the reverse of the procedure, installing the new unit, no wires to splice only one plug and four screws.
refrigerator wasn't cooling but the freezer was working properly
From instructions found on the site I was directed to the defrost timer part being bad. And from the information others posted that have had the same problem I was able to replace that part by removing the bottom grill just below the door and on the left side was the part. Removing one screw to remove the bracket from the frame and then another screw to remove the part from the bracket. I found it easier to remove the part from the bracket before I pulled the part out so I would have more room to unplug the connector. Just reverse the steps to replace the new part. It took about a day or so for the refrigerator to get to the proper temp.
Fresh Food section door made a click noise on closing
Since the cam riser was obviously broken I obtained a replacement. It also broke. The door hinge cam needed to be replaced also. To repair Remove the hinge cover using a #2 phillips driver. Than remove the Hinge using an 8mm socket. Turn the door upside down and, using an 8mm socket remoge the cam riser and the door hinge cam. Replace in reverse order. Be sure to inspect all parts and order all required.
First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
