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Models > CSC20EASAWH > Instructions

CSC20EASAWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSC20EASAWH parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CSC20EASAWH
46-60 of 510
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The regrigerator would not defrost properly. After doing some online research, I determined that the Defrost Heater was no longer working.

  • Customer: David from Lakeland, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First, I had to remove the back panel in the freezer. This exposes the cooling coils and the Defrost Heater which is located toward the bottom underneath the cooling coils. There are four screws that have to be removed before the old Defrost Heater can be taken out. There are two wires that go from the Defrost Heater to the power connection. These wires are blue and pink. I had to remove some pieces in the back at the top of the freezer to expose the power connection for the Defrost Heater. These pieces were held in place with phillips screws, so they easily came out to reveal the power connection. The power connection is a simple plug-in type. The Defrost Thermostat is also included with the new Defrost Heater. This is a round piece which is clamped onto the Cooling Coils. I removed the old Defrost Thermostat. It is connected to the same power connection with the Defrost Heater. After I mounted the new Defrost Heater and Defrost Thermostat and connected the power, the refrigerator has worked perfectly.

refrigerator did not cool

  • Customer: Carl from Kent City, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
i put a new evaporator motor in and now it works fine

Fridge wouldn't start

  • Customer: Patrick from Medford, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed cowling unpluged timer and pluged in new one.
Great Service, got part in one day

Refrigerator compartment warm, Freezer cold

  • Customer: Hop from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
This is a old 2000 side by side Kenmore frig bought from sears. left Freezer side was building up ice in the back, while right side was not cool at all. The Defrost Timer was behind the light panel on top in compartment side. Easily remove unit and unscrew things. Works like a champ.

Refrigerator & freezer became warm.

  • Customer: James from Garland, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the refrigerator. I took all the food items out of the freezer, took out the ice bin and shelves. Then I unscrewed the back panel and removed it. The freezer coils were frozen over with ice. Then I used a large fan to thaw the ice and cleaned up the water with towels.
I unscrewed the old defrost heater at the bottom of the coil section, removed it and screwed the new defrost heater part in. I ended up using some dikes to cut the wiring midway up . ( I was going to use the new plastic plug that came with the new part, but it wasn't correct ). I spliced the wires together ( the color scheme was the same - pink to pink, blue to blue, etc), capped them , taped them with electrical tape, and I covered them with a corner from a sandwich bag and taped them a bit more to keep moisture out. Then I tucked the wiring up away from the coil section. I also spliced this little cylindrical part into the existing wiring harness and clipped it onto the copper tubing. ( I suspect this is the defrost timer, but I'm not sure ). After I removed the the old cylindrical little part, I noticed the cap was popped out of it. (it looked like it was damaged a bit ). Once I got all wiring tucked away and back in place, I put the back panel back on, plugged it back in. Voila'. Easy as pie. It's been running fine ( about a week now) ever since. I replaced the thermostat sensor first since that was the cheapest part, but it wasn't the problem. So I moved on to the defrost heater and that ended up being the bad part. I repaired my refrigerator for less than $100.00. Thanks PartSelect. You rock!

The cam broke apart and the pieces were on the floor. The door did not close automatically. This was on the freezer side.

  • Customer: Bennie from Gainesville, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

Door would not close properly

  • Customer: Dan from New Braunfels, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I stacked three 2x4's that were approximately as wide as the door in length. This required lifting the door about 1/4" but it also got the weight of the door off the cam so the bracket assembly that the cam was attached to could be removed. I drilled out the rivet that held the old cam in place and like previous DIY's had to use a small bolt and nut to secure the new cam in place. Reattached the bracket with the new cam and that was it. The only problem was that the head of the bolt I used was not flat enough to allow proper clearance for the door to swing freely without feeling some drag and the wife noticed that immediately. I told her to wait until the weekend and I would again remove the door and file down the head of the bolt to allow the required clearance. After a few days of use, the door itself ground enough material off the head of the bolt so that the door began to open and close properly. So now she's happy, I'm happy and the dog is happy.

Door wouldn't stay closed & was out of alignment

  • Customer: Rod from Nashville, TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams
mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two.
1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins.
2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge.
3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge.
4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed
on floor.
5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge.
6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place.
7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate.
8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate.
9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge.
10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door.
11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door.
NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again.
12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.

drawers would not slide properly and the door cam was busted so we had a sagging door

  • Customer: Christian from Manhattan, MT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
We took the drawers out unsrewed the slide rails, screwed the new ones back on and replaced the drawers. the door cam was alittle harder because we had to lift the door to put it in but it still took under 10 min. altogether it took about 25 minutes. I am also planning on buying a few more parts from the company so I will end up paying about $50 to fix a fridge that I got for free. WHAT A GREAT DEAL!!!!!

freezer not frezing properly frost buildup

  • Customer: Bill from Columbiana, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed housing around timer. Unpluged and
replaced timer. Defrosted freezer witk small portable heater. Freezer has worked greater since.
Saved a lot on service call.

Refridgerator quit cooling because the defrost element had burned out and the refridgerator coils were totally covered with ice.

  • Customer: sherry from runaway bay, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I defrosted freezer. Removed cover from back of freezer. Removed screws from element disconected wires. I connected wires to new element installed screws and reinstalled cover.

Fan had quit; needed replacement.

  • Customer: John from Divide, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The fan was the correct part. It arrived one day after my well trained son-in-law had left for Texas. I had to install the motor myself. He had trained me well; it was not hard. the most difficult was getting the two tabs on the fan housing to fit back into the frame of the refrigerator where they belonged. Thanks. the part & delivery were overpriced, but I needed seed and convenience. Thanks for getting it right the first time.
John Moragues

Light in the refrigerator went out

  • Customer: Paulette B. from Santa Ana, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
After I bought what I thought I needed for the repair. I asked a friend to come over and look at it. He changed the
the light socket and put the same light bulb in and it works great. I am returning the light switch but decided to keep the light bulb.

Getting on the internet was so easy. This was really very simple. Thank you for making what I thought would be a big ordeal into something very simple.

Paulette Johnson

Drawers slides had broken causing pans to fall

  • Customer: James from Chipley, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
It was very simple, took out the slide rails and took a screwdriver and assembled. My wife was very pleased to have these drawers in working order once again.

Freezer kept freezing up

  • Customer: Wesley from Hattiesburg, MS
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the cover for the evaporater coils and let them defrost. Then took the old heating element out by removing two screws on the bottom element and two screws on the top element. Unplugged it and removed it from the unit. Then repeated the reverse of the procedure, installing the new unit, no wires to splice only one plug and four screws.
All Instructions for the CSC20EASAWH
46-60 of 510