CSB2121ARQ Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

First, watched video on Part Select Website. Very good. Pulled Appliance out from wall, Pulled the power plug, and removed the back shield covering the working parts of the unit. Found the fan and it was almost the same setup as on the video except that I could not get to one of the screws holding the motor in place so had to remove the entire bracket with the fan. Not too hard. Cleaned away dust and gunk around the site and noticed that the fan pulled air through a tunnel-like condenser coil that was packed with gunky lint...this is what probably killed the motor. I cleaned out the tunnel with the bottle brushes and vacuum and installed the new motor / bracket assembly. Then replaced the shielding around the fan and the back cover .panel. This is important because these form the channel that guides air flow throughout the condenser coils. This particular refrigerator has a barrier underneath which guides air flow from the front left to the condenser, through the fan, over the evaporator drip pan and out the right front. I cleaned all the lint and gunk from this area as well. I also made an air filter (cut from a furnace filter) and wedged it in front of the air entry section. This should keep the condenser coil cleaner over time but you have to remember to change the filter once a year. Probably should clean the condenser coil every 5 years as well. This unit has been very reliable over 20 years and may well go for another 20. Good luck with your repair.

Couldn't believe how complicated this part is with heaters. It is used in at least a billion refrigerators and functions well. But I had to tear it all apart to adopt it. Got it all done and stayed awake all night for waiting for Ice. Nothing! Then a Erika moment! Turn the ice arm full switch off! Then Ice poured out every hour. Expecting many years of ice. Thanks for speedy delivery especially before Christmas..

need instr. to repair

Getting a new lower hinge pin, fixed the problem.

The repair was a lot easier than I thought. I first ordered the ice-maker part from PartSelect. Followed the instructions from the how-to video and I was done within 30 minutes. Unplugged the fridge, took out the two 1/4" nut screws holding up the ice-maker, disconnected the wiring harness and then re-attached the new ice-maker in reverse order. Had to use some of the parts from the old ice-maker, like the cover, ice wire (the wire that moves up and down, letting you know when the ice box was full or starts the ice-making process) The whole process along the PartSelect video made it easy.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Watch the video and then do the repair.

Sorry for delay in writing. Part I ordered arrived two days ago and it was exactly what I needed. Knowing that there will be problems even with the smallest job I procrastinated starting. When I did start this morning I foud I had to completely remove the ice maker and disassemble it in order to install the water fill cup bracket. The challenge was reassembling the unit. Not hard for an experienced repairman but a challenge for layman. Everything is thing is back to gether now and power on cooling down the refrigerator. Won't know how successful it was until turn on water and ice is formed. If it works this saved $75 just to get a Sears repairman to come out and tell me what would be needed to fix the refrigerator and $1,000 if I had to buy a new refrigerator. Extremely satisfied with service I received. Thank you.

I turned off the water and electricity to the refrigerator. Then I removed the ice bin exposing the ice maker. I loosened the two screws on the wall with a 1/4" nutdriver and I removed the horizontal screw on the bottom of the ice maker again with the nut driver. That allowed me to lift off the ice maker so that I could remove the wiring harness from the ice maker. A flat screwdriver helped me push in the retaining tab, and disengage the harness. Installation was in the reverse order. A third hand would have helped reconnect the wiring harness, but I put a shoe box on the top shelf of the freezer compartment to hold the new unit while I connected the wiring harness, making sure to "hear it click" when fully engaged. I then removed the wire "feeler" from the old unit and inserted it in the new one. Inserting the water inlet hose and hanging the ice maker was simple after that. The existing bracket holding the ice maker on the bottom was not rusted so I did not replace it even though a new one came with the ice maker. I should add that I had previously defrosted the freezer in order to remove the ice bin as it could not be removed with the block of ice that had frozen in the front end. I'm a senior citizen with no prior experience in changing an ice maker. I wasn't trying to set an amount of time it could take which was about 40 minutes, including the time it took to turn off/on the water and electric breaker and go to the garage for a flat screwdriver and find the right size nutdriver, and next time I could probably do the job in about 20 to 30 minutes! Bob I. San Diego, CA

Had replaced Adaptive Defrost board 3 months earlier so thought something may have been wrong with defrost again. Checked coils in freezer and they were not iced up. Pulled fridge out to get at back. Removed lower panel using nut driver. Noticed compressor fan was running and compressor was too yet fan was not running very fast. Unplugged fridge and checked wires going to compressor. Pulled orange wire off and noticed spade terminal was blackened. Pulled remaining wires off (blue & white) to check for more burn marks. Those were ok. While pulling off wires the starter/overload relay started coming off from the compressor. Pulled it completely off. Noticed the spade lug terminal for the orange wire was burned. Pulled assembly apart and found the contacts and plastic inside of casing were very burnt. Ordered new unit and requested overnite delivery. Needed a fix fast. Fortunately for us my Dad had 2 refrigerators partially used at his house so we moved everything down to his place. Thats the part that sucks the most. New part was not exact replacement but works ok. Overload relay (1 connector) goes on the bottom pin of the compressor first. After that is on you put the 2 connector starter relay on. It helps keep the overload circuit in place given its a separate part unlike the orignal part being all 1 unit. I also had to clip the terminal ends off from the orange wire and crimp a new end on given the plastic was burned and metal connector was black. No sense in using it as it would start out with a bad connection and likely burn up again. I even flowed a little solder on the crimp/wire as well to make sure I had good contact. Once all wires were plugged back onto the starter/overload relay I plugged fridge in. At first I thought it didn't fix it as the fan nor compressor turned on. However, after a few minutes compressor and fan both started up and have been running since. Looking back, the smell that we had of burned plastic the nite before must have been this part on the compressor. Unfortunately we couldn't figure out where the smell had come from. About 15hrs later was when we noticed the water dripping out of the freezer. Also, the slow running fan and the fact that the compressor was running likely meant both were running under low voltage conditions given the burned up contacts and wire that I had. Always easy to look back to see why things were doing what they were once you figure out what caused it. Freezer and fridge have been running great now for better than a week. One side note - On my old adaptive defrost board that I replaced 3 months prior, I found a bad capacitor on it so for $2 I think I have a repaired adaptive defrost board now too as a spare. :) If you are curious like me and you want to try to repair an adaptive defrost board, check out capcitor C2. Its suppose to be a 22uf 50v. The one on my bad board measured open. Another spare part I obtained from my starter/overload relay repair was the overload circuit. On the orignal part it was all part of 1 unit but when you take it apart it too is really 2 separate parts in 1 molded case. In fact, I used the original overload circuit with the new starter relay so I have a spare overload circuit for the fridge too.

Removed bad motor with socket set and pliers then removed the connectors from the old motor and soldered them on the new one. Then installed new motor. Works like new! Problem Solved! Easy fix!

This refrigerator has the freezer on the bottom. You have to remove both of the drawers to get to the icemakeer. I did not disconnect the water line or the power to the unit because it is a hassle to pull the unit out of the hole where it resides. I first unplugged the power from the icemaker to the unit and used a flat tip screwdriver to get the icemaker out. The old one was gross. We had noticed flakes in the ice for over a year but thought it was the water. The wire bar from to stop making ice had to be moved from the old icemaker to the new one as well as a brace on the bottom of the icemaker and the front cover. This is all easy. The hardest part of the repair was getting the larger drawer back on its guide. Honestly, this was a repair my 11 yr old grandson could have done with some supervision. I'm guessing I easily saved $100 by repairing this myself.

Extremly easy - just followed the video exactly. Changing the ice make out couldn't have been more easy. when the ice maker was out - noticed some ice build up in the filling water tube. Used the hair dryer to defrost (will replace the double outlet water valve to stop this once my husband is there to help me pull out the frig.) We now have perfect ice cubes. still slowly having issues with some ice build up - but know the water valve is bad too. more to come!!

replaced ice maker, followed the on line video instructions and it was the easied repair i've ever made it took less then 15 minutes

The replacement ice maker was exactly the same size and model. All the mounting screws lined up and install was snap. The website parts description was very good and helpful. We now have ice cubes with no over flowing glacier in the ice tray.