Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Water actuator had broke off and water leaked from dispenser
The hardest part was figuring out how the front plate comes off. The tray will come forward when pried with a screwdriver. Then the top will come off but you will have to leave on due to attached wires. After that it was a piece of cake. Unscrew screws (6), remove small plates holding arm in place, remove arm, replace with new actuator, and close things up. As far as the valve, just take your time and, if needed, cut off pointed ends of tubings and push into new valve. Unplug color coded plugs and plug into new valve. Reattach valve to fridge and your done. We started everything up before attaching backing to make sure there were no leaks.
Freezer was cold but the fridge was warm. Back panel of fridge was building up frost
First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .
The process: Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.
The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.
I pulled out the old support stud with a pair of pliers, pushed the new stud in, and gave it a few taps with the hammer to secure it in the fridge wall. For the door bin I just slid the new bin in place.
evaporator coil would freeze up solid. no air flow through coil; no cooling.
-unplug power cord.(safety first! -Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective. -use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up. -unclip thermostat from coil. -cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat. -clip on new defrost thermostat. -connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included) -replace coil cover. -plug power cord back in.
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.
I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!
This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.
I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.