CRE9590CCL Maytag Range - Instructions

1st removed the sealed burners
2nd removed stove top
3rd removed oven door
4th removed left and right side pannels to access door hinges
5th removed left and right hinges
6th installed new left and right hinges
then re-installed other components in reverse order.
The oven door now opens and closes properly, the heat stays in the oven!!

Using the description on the first DIY, I did as told. All went well until the part about removing the panel to access the hinge. There isn't a "panel" on the side of this particular model of Magic Chef stove. You have to remove the entire side of the stove, and then, there's another panel inside of this one. That too has to come off. Once off, you're into the insulation surrounding the oven. Ain't pretty, I'll assure you. Then, the replacement hinge has holes in it for the mounting screws. The holes aren't threaded, and you have to replace the screws that come with the hinge with self-tapping screws. Either that, or thread the holes with a tap. Thank goodness my wife loves the stove, or it may have just gone out the door. This is not one of Magic Chefs better ideas. Either that, or they didn't plan on having to replace the hinge before the stove wore out.

First I swiched off the circuit breaker just to be safe.Then I removed the two mounting screws and disconnected the the element leads. Very easy task, approx 5 mins. THANKS

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio

First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

First-my daughter needed her pizza and I didn't want to even think about the cost of a new range. So she did some research online about replacement parts. Lo an behold, Partselect.com was our answer.

We received the part in a few days and replaced it with just unscrewing a few screws.. AFTER we unplugged the range. We also used a tool that I would describe as a nail remover/lifter to get the end off of the wire connection. Needless to say, we were rookies and had no experience with this type of repair and were so proud that we were able to spend less than $30.00 to fix our oven.
Thanks to Partselect.com for making it easy to do this repair on our own.

I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

First I shut off the power at the circuit breaker.Then I removed the racks to make room to work.I then removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled both sides out approx.3 inches.After carefully disconnecting the wires,I put the new element in to place and repeated the steps backwards.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought

I removed the two screws that held the element in. I pulled the old element out and heard a loud pop. I didn't realize that I had to turn the oven off at the breaker to change the element. It blew the breaker and melted one of the connectors to the element. The wires didnt pull through the hole so I had to pull the oven out, take the back panel off, replace the electrical connectors, slide the wires through the holes at the back of the oven, connect the element and put it back in, now it works fine. Remember to turn the oven off at the breaker when changing the element, it could be a shocking experience otherwise.

I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.