CES366HZ1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Unplugged stove, opened door and removed two bolts with a phillips screwdriver. Pulled out old element and pulled off the two wire leads. Replaced with new element and reversed all steps...wallaaaaa.

Went on line to see if the repair could be done by us. Watched repair video and from there on the repair went as smooth as it possibly could.

Followed the video step by step. No problem

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Easy as pie! Thank you for the illustration to help us pick out the correct part.

Turn off the breaker to the range. Unplug, too. Took off the 8 screws that hold the upper back panel on. Took a picture of the wire setup (this ain't my first rodeo). Removed two screws on the bottom of the old latch that hold it in place. Carefully removed the wire leads with needle-nose pliers because I didn't want to replace the wire leads. Reconnected the wires to the new latch, replaced the two screws to hold it onto the oven. Tested with the rocker switch on top and the oven door, both worked. Put the back panel on with the 8 screws.

Unpluged from electric. I took two bolts out of back of oven attached to boiler. Pulled out and exposed cords the attach to boiler. Slide them off and removed old boiler. Attached cords to new boiler and slide part back in to attach the two bolts back. Plugged oven back in and worked great

unscrew the bolts connecting the elements and replaced

unscrew two screws..took old element out, put perfect fit new element in,screw two screws back in.

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Removed rear panel and removed switch. I placed wires from old switch to the new one. re installed switch an back panel.

Very easy. A couple of screws and it was repaired. Parts select makes it easy and affordable to do minor repairs on my appliance. This is the second time we have used this company to repair our oven and so far all has gone very well.

Pulled the oven away from the wall, unplugged the oven. Unscrewed the back panel(2 screws)that covers the pigtail connection. Pulled the two wires that attached to the heating element. Inside the oven i removed the two screws holding the element in place and removed old element. Put the new element in place and returned screws. The two wires clipped effortlessly on the back, returned cover and screws and plugged the oven back in. Tested the oven and returned it to its position, reset the clock and done.

Unplug the oven, pull it out and empty the inside of the oven. The bottom heating element just unscrews from the back of the oven with two screws. Pull it out from the back of the oven and gently pull off the electrical connections. Reattach them to the new heating element, put it back into the oven and reattach the screws. Turn the oven on and check to make sure that the new heating element is working. Put everything back in the oven and you're done!

Keep in mind that I am a 65 year old woman who has replaced bake elements on a much older range that was hard wired. I viewed the video so I knew what to expect. The job would have taken no more than 15 minutes if the retaining screws had not been stuck. After several doses of WD40, I finally managed to get them loose but only then after I had tried every screw driver in the house. I clamped the leads with vise grips to keep them from slipping back in the stove. Unplugging the old broken element and plugging in the new one took maybe a couple of minutes. The retaining screws went back in without a problem.