Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

Models > CES366HZ1 > Instructions

CES366HZ1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for CES366HZ1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CES366HZ1
1-15 of 126
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

F3 Error message

  • Customer: Charles from Brecksville, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 127 of 164 people found this instruction helpful
Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the string still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!

heating element burnt up

  • Customer: Esther from San Antonio, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 68 of 73 people found this instruction helpful
first I pulled the stove from the wall. Then unplugged the stove from the wall (electric stove) for safety. then I removed the middle back panel screws(2) and then the panel. I then pulled the wires off the heating element that was bad. I took the screws (2) off the heating element inside the oven. I had to use WD-40 to loosen the screws because with the heat they were really stuck. I removed the heating element and replaced it with the one I got through partselect.com. Put everything back and walla finished. Partselect.com sent me the right part at the right price and fast. No hassles at all.

The burner would keep heating after turning off the switch

  • Customer: RON from KAUFMAN, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 50 of 55 people found this instruction helpful
Start by turning off the power to the range.
It was fairly easy to take the "Control Deck" off the top of the range by removing about 8 screws. I leaned the deck forward without removing any wires except a green ground that was held on by one of the screws.
There are two small screws under the switch knob holding the Infinite Switch to the panel. I removed these and let the switch hang on the wires. To avoid missplacing or crossing the wires... I moved one wire at a time to the new switch, then attached the switch to the panel and put it all back together.
Whole job was done in about 15 minutes

Baking element on stove wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Reggie from Piedmont, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 33 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
Went online and located the correct part, which I had shipped to me next day. The part arrived I removed the two screws which held the element in place, unclipped the two wire leads, then replaced old element with the new one, reattached wire clips then screwed new element in place. All done 10 min.

mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range

  • Customer: Wendy from Red Hook, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Socket Light had a bad thread

  • Customer: Edmund from Emporium, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 30 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

trim broke while cleaning door handle

  • Customer: Diann from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
well had I known that the trim did not go over the glass, the project would have been easy, but I thought the trim held the glass in, but that was not the case. After much juggling discovered that the trim went under the glass, and at that point the instilation was very easy.

door front shattered

  • Customer: Jon from Ironwood, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 25 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
Went very easy--clean up was the worst part-the service was excellent with fast delivery.

drawer broke and annoying my wife

  • Customer: John from Jamestown, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb

  • Customer: Lewis from Chapin, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

One of the heat elements in my oven would not heat

  • Customer: Mikhail from Iowa City, IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
1. Disconnected power from my oven.
2. Removed several screws that held the control block
3. Removed two screws that held the switch itself disconnected wires and removed switch
4. Reconnected all wires to new switch (no soldiering gun required)
5. Put control block back

Overall - very easy

Oven light not working

  • Customer: Carol from Allison Park, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

Lower element went out

  • Customer: Kimberly from Palestine, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to come out and replace the wire.

Both hinges were bent, probably from dropping the door, or leaning on it when it was in the down position.

  • Customer: Earle from Taylorsville, UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
1st; I opened the door, 2nd; removed the keepers that prevent the door from coming unhinged. 3rd; placed 2 short screws in the holes in the hinges. 4th; raised the door until it stopped. 5th; lifted the door upward and slid the hinges out of the slots in the range. 6th; laid the door face up on a microwave stand. With a handle on the outside, and hinges sticking out of the inside, it was inpossible to lay the door flat on a larger surface, and get around it. 7th; removed 2 screws from the inside top, and the 8 screws from the very bottom. 8th; removed the bottom rail, and the handle assembly. From there everything was stacked pieces. Picked the glass front up, and carefully set it safely aside. Picked each piece up and cleaned it, and started the re-assembly. The hardest part of the process was getting the fiberglass rope around the inside glass, to stay in place during the initial re-assembly. From there, the assembly was just the reverse order. the process was about 1 hour and 20 minutes, due to lack instructions and practice, plus cleaning, finding screws, and tools, Instructions may have been on line, but I didn't find them. The new hinges came with pins in place, and should have come with an extra set to lock the old hinges.
All Instructions for the CES366HZ1
1-15 of 126