CEI30GF5GSD Electrolux Range - Instructions

I "You Tubed" disassembly and commenced by disconnecting electric power. Removed door via You Tube instruction, removed back panels of unit, and replaced the oven temp probe. Easy Peasy. Then removed bottom of oven, next level above the burner and started to remove the igniter. One nut refused to be removed so I removed the burner and cut the nut and drilled it out. I reinstalled the new igniter with a metal screw from the rear panel and reinstalled the burner. Through the tiny hatchway I reconnected the new igniter and reassembled the oven to test. Just fine heated to 350 in 7 minutes. Awesome. Then, I called my brother, Pat, to give his imprimatur to the hillbilly nut switch. He said ok, I am done.

To any reading this, I would order the igniter and the burner at the same time. That tough nut cost my one extra hour.

Simple: remove the element by hand and replace new one.

I can't believe how quickly I received my new part -literally next day.

I ordered the replacement igniter for the oven portion of the unit from Part select. It shipped very quickly. Upon receiving the igniter it was time to get to work. It took roughly 10 mins to replace and we were back up and running.

Unplug oven to prevent shore. Make sure to purchase ceramic wire nuts to complete repair. No access to able to plug in the plug. Need to unscrew the plates in the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Cut the plugs off and use the ceramic wire nuts to connect the wires. Put make together. It took a Month for the part to arrive.

took the two screws out by hand, slipped out the ruined panel, slid the new one in place, replaced the two screws...simple as that

The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.

Turn off gas,unplug,unbolt the burners(you have to do this to keep from bending and or kinking over the gas lines.Luck kept me from bending the lines out of whack.)All I needed was the electrode but I couldn’t find it available separately.I had to buy the whole front burner.Anyway remove the clip from the new part slide the electrode out.Tilt the top of the range up take the clip off of the old electrode slide it out put the new one in install clip.Plug it in,rebolt all the burners in.Careful not to bend the gas lines.put the top down turn on the gas,plug it in and light.

The youtube video clearly described how to remove the back panel and how to replace the probe.
The repair took maybe 20 minutes to complete and 1/2 of that time was spent cleaning behind and underneath the range!
Range is working perfectly now!

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

I looked up the problem on YouTube and it said it was the oven temperature probe was going out. So I ordered the probe and it was shipped out, received within two days. Took out a few screws on the back of the stove installed it, put it all back together and it’s working perfect.

first the temperature sensor then the igniter. started to do the igniter by using common sense then I used YouTube which made it a lot faster.
the temperature sensor installs from the back of the stove, the igniter installs from thr front ie, the drawer and inside oven.

I followed the video on the website. The probe is on back of the oven. Just unplug part and replace. That was not our fix all though as I later found that the igniter was not working. The igniter is also an easy fix but you access it through the front of the oven. Also an easy swap.

Oven is working great now.

Our issues kind of fell between two of the descriptions so I went with high percentage cheaper fix first.

If your oven is intermittingly getting hot or to temperature of 100, it is probably the igniter.

Have used PartsSelect for Washing Machine, Dryer, Refridgerator and now the Range. Super easy to figure out needed parts and videos walk you through the repair.

Thanks

Removed old Oven Bake igniter, aligned it and installed the new Oven Bake Igniter.

First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.

I follow the instructions that I received from the e-mail.