Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Broken Dryer belt
Easy as 1-2-3. I took off the top hinge screws in order to lift up the top of the dryer.
I then took off the front dryer piece with the door intact. The lint filter was in the front door section.
I released the wiring clips to the front of the dryer and lowered the front of the dryer down gently. there is enough slack with the wiring if you disconnect the wirre clips.
I removed the old broken belt. ThenI gently lifted thr dryer drum enough to slid in the new belt with the ridges down. Look for the old belt line (worn area on the drum) and slip the belt up on the drum to that point.
Then I replaced the wiring with clips and put the front of the dryer back together.
Going around to the lower back of the dryer, I unscrewed the back plate where the exhaust comes out. It was 8 screws with a socket.
Once the back was off, I pulled the dryer pully to the right and fed the reamider of the belt through both pulleys ensuring that the ridged side was on the correct side of the pulley. The pylleys match the ridges on the belt. I rleased the tension on the movavle pulley and it was done.
All I had to do was button the back up and do a "dry run" I quick have the drum a half roation from inside the drum with the door open. Then it was all gravy. I was done and saved myself a good deal of money. Look on the net for pics to make thing easier for you. There are people out ther who will NOT charge you for this info.
First i removed the lower rear inspection plate to see what the problem was. next i removed the screws in the front top panel. next i lift the top back,the rear hinges held it in place. next i removed the bolts that held the front panel in place,but before i removed the panel i removed the wires that were connected to the front elements and disconnected then, next i removed the front panel,then i place the new dryer belt over the dryer drum,but first you have to rise the drum up a little to get the belt under it. next i put all the front panels back in place,make sure you reconnect the wires that you removed earlier. next i moved to the back panel, there i position the belt over the dryer drum,then i place the belt over the motor drive pulley, then i pull down the tension bar roller to the left and place the belt over it.Then i replace the rear panel in place.plug in the power core and turn it on. finished. After over 35 years this is the first time i had to replace the belt,matter of fact this is the first time i had to replace anything on this dryer, washers will that is a different story. but the dryer runs great maybe for another 30 +years LOL.
extremely loud continous noise when drying laundry
watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!
Removed the rear access panel (8 - 10 bolts), checked the pullys. Opened the dryer door, removed 4 allen screws at top and lifted the top of the dryer (like a hood on a car). Removed a screw (phillips) on each side (inside) pulled open the front and worked the belt around the drum. Placed belt onto pullys, plugged in checked for proper rotation of drum then unplugged and installed screws and bolts. - Fairly easy, saved a bunch from a service call. I also found 15+ years of lint inside the dryer. Vacumed and cleaned the inside -it even dries faster! Sorry Honey - No new dryer this year - Now can I go hunting?
Replacing the bearing and belt on a GE DDE6350BBL dryer
My belt broke and landed up in the bottom of the case, therefore no problem removing it. Having to replace the belt I decided to renew the bearing at the same time. Detailed instructions, with comments follow for those of you attempting this repair. Most important, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING WORK Take careful note as you take things apart of what they looked like before you started.
First unplug the appliance. Always unplug the appliance before doing any repair. With the appliance stood in a space where it is accessible all round begin. Open the front door and remove the small Phillips screws located at the top of the front panel. ( You have to look upwards to see them, normally four screws ) The cabinet top can now be lifted carefully upwards. It is a good idea to use a piece of 2 x 4 to hold this in a raised position for the time being. Inside the cabinet on the right at the top, behind the door open switch, remove the two electrical slide connectors from the switch. Remove the hex headed screws securing the bottom kicking plate, ( four screws ) Remove the two longer hex screws securing the bottom of the front panel, ( two screws ) Look inside the cabinet, each side towards the top there is one hex headed screw securing the top of the front panel to the sides ( two screws ) Hint head of screw faces back of cabinet. The front panel can now be removed by lifting slightly up and away from the rest of the case. Do not try to move it too far, just turn it through ninety degrees and lean it against something heavy. Hopefully placed there to lean it on before you started. Using a torx screw bit, remove the three torx screws securing the drum onto the bearing. ( A noise will be heard like something dropping, we will take care of this later.) Lift the drum out of the case and set it aside. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the bearing to the casing. Lift out the complete old bearing assembly. Now is the time to thoroughly clean all the parts, before reassembly. A Hoover with a crevice tool is good for removing most of the lint in and around the case. In severe cases it might be necessary to use a wire brush to loosen the lint. Look in the bottom of the case and find the spacer, which fell off when you removed the drum. It is circular with a large hole in the centre and six holes around the side. It is a good idea if you are adventurous, to remove the slide connectors for the heater elements and remove this assembly for cleaning. If you are not adventurous then cleaning it while installed is possible but be careful of the wire spirals, they are fragile
Helpful hint. At this point take one of the old screws, which secured the bearing into the house. Take this screw to a good hardware store and ask for two extra screws three inches long with the same thread. Make certain the thread is the same. Bring your new screws home, put them in a vice and saw off the heads, thus leaving two pieces of threaded rod three inches long of the correct thread. Doing this will save you a lot of aggravation later.
To replace the bearing, assemble the new bearing with a small quantity of high heat grease applied to the bearing surfaces. The old circlip can be reused without problem as long as it was not damaged when removing it.
Hint the new bearing is supplied with an 'o' ring in the groove where the circlip goes, this 'o' ring has to be removed before assembly.
If you have removed the heater assembly for cleaning it should be reinstalled now. Install the new bearing in the casing using the four new screws provided. Carefully screw your two threaded rods into two of the three holes in the bearing surface. Locate the spacer plate onto the threaded rods and slide back until it is in the correct position. Hint, it will only go on one way round, with all the holes lining up correctly. Place the new belt loosely around the drum before it is installed in
After removing the front panel with a 1/4" nut driver; I removed the drum, rear shield and spacer using a 3/8" ratchet, 6" extension and torx socket for the three drum screws. I then removed the 4 screws on the rear heat guard panel to get to the rear bearing assembly. I removed the rear bearing assembly and replaced the plastic bearing and then re-assembled it. Total time was less than 30 minutes. Now the problems began. Trying to line up the drum to the bearing plate was very difficult due to the bulk of the drum. After some frustration time I devised a way to do it. I took 3 1/12 inch #10-24 screws and cut the heads off. Then I screwd them into to bearing plate as guide pins. I then backed them out after installing each of the mounting screws. It worked very well. Next as I have large arms and hands Iworked form at least 30 minutes to attached the drive belt to the moto and idler pulley. I finally got it on by attaching the belt first around the motor then pulled the idler arm down to engage it over the belt. Took a lot of positioning my hand correctly to get enough leverage to pull the idler arm down far enough. All in all not to complicated and my wife just won't part with this dryer that really dries clothes quickly.I glad I took on the task to repair it and my hats go off to PartSelect.com for quickly and correctly filg mypart order. Hope you have the same success.
Unplug the unit. The top of the dryer is held down by 2 simple friction pins. By lifting the dryer top above it's front door panel the top will swing up. Prop the top up so you can reach down the front panel. There are 2 Phillips screws about 6 inches down on the dryers front panel. Remove the 2 screws, tip the front panel toward you it will slip off the dryer drum. Remove the 2 push on wires attached to the door switch. Gently lift the front panel off the 2 hinge points at the bottom and set it aside. The parts that your going to replace are the 2 solenoids on the burner assembly. The burner assembly is located on the lower left side of the dryer. Remove the 2 Philips screws that "clamp" the solenoids in place. Pull the 3 & 2 wire friction connectors off the solenoids. Lift the clamp off the top of the solenoids. Pick the 2 solenoids up off the valve assemble. Put the 2 new solenoids on the valve assembly push the wires back on, put the clamp back on and resemble the dryer. *Note: just to make a quick check on the continuity of the solenoids. I suspended the dryer drum so it could rotate without damaging it, put my clamp on amp probe on the 120v line to the solenoids the 3 wire one was good the 2 wire one was open.
Plastic housing for the door latch mounted in the chassis of the dryer was damaged so the section of the latch in the door wouldn't align.
This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!
My dryer would light but when it called for more heat it would not light.
lifted the top panel, there were 2 screws to remove the front panel, then the coils were right there on the bottom left side. a screw or two hold the coils inplace. Then just unplug the old coils and plug in to the new coils.
old bearing completley gone; shaft eating through race making a horrible noise when running
pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.
remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..
Checked PartSelect online for people with a. similar problem. Found most common problem was the coils. I opened the top, removed the two screws holding the front panel, unclipped the wiring harness from the machine to the door and removed/cut the plastic wire tie and front came off easily. I put the front piece to the side after changing the light bulb. I cleaned out a large amount of lint and found the coils on the left hand side without trouble. Carefully disconnected the wiring clips, unscrewed the holding screw and removed the old coils. Installed the new colis, 1 has three prongs and the other has 2 so you ca'nt mix them up. Replaced the hold screw, re-connected the witing harness, installed a new wire tie, and re-stalled the two holding screws. Closed the cover and turned it on. At first it did not heat up which was dissappointing; but then I left it alone and 15 minutes later it worked like new! And heated up just fine ever since.
Total cost about $35.00 with shipping. I took a chance that I would not need the sensor or the ignitor based on the comments of others and I just bought the coils. If I had to do it over I would have bought all three and saved on the shipping.
I removed the rear panel to access the drive belt. Lowered the pulley to remove the belt and then took off the front panel and popped the top lid off. The belt was slightly frayed on the edges and looked a little old. Inside of the dryer was filled with lint, noticed the vent that sucks the lint from the dryer was almost totally blocked because off caked on lint. Probably from the moisture when we lived in Tx and had it in our garage. Sucked it out with the shop vac and scraped the rest. Removed the whole drum and that's when I noticed the rear drum bearing was totally destroyed and only a piece or two remained. Ordered the drum bearing and drive belt. I was about to put them on when I saw the drum slides were worn pretty thin. So I had to order more drum slides. That's why it took me so long to repair the dryer. If I had the parts already, it would have only taken an hour or so. I was pretty excited that I did it myself, since my husband usually fixes everything around the house. Easier than I thought :o)
