C201 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel. Removed the control knobs from each switch and the four palnuts under each knob. Removed the two screws inside the vent well that hold the escutcheon in place. Pulled each switch up as much as possible to expose the wires attached underneath to each switch blade. Remoced each wire and replaced them on the new switch. Same procedure for all four switches. Reassembled in reverse order. Turned on power and all four burners lit up and were regulated as if new. I saved $244.00 doing the repair myself.

Removed two screws holding 4-switch panel, drew a simple diagram to assure placement of wires on correct terminals, removed and replaced switch.

Switch works fine, but original knob does not fit shaft of replacement switch. Will try to order new knob, but it probably won't match the old knobs, so range will have one new knob & three old ones. I wish the order page noted that new knobs must be ordered to fit the new style shaft.

FIRST OPENED THE CIRCUIT BREAKER. Snipped the three wires, capped the white one with the ceramic insulating nut and crimped the spade connectors to the other two. Then CAREFULLY filed one side of the rectangular hole in the escutcheon until iwas wide enough to accept the new swich. Drew the two wires up through the hole, attached them to the switch and pushed the switch into the hole until it snapped in place. Reseated the escutcheon and reconnected the two screws. Closed the circuit breaker, pressed the switch and VOILA, on went the fan. Be careful not to let filings fall into the electrical stuff. Need crimping tool & file.

Shut off the breaker! Removed down draft grill. Removed two phillips head screws and lifited switch plate out. Removed switches (2) and made wiring diagram as I went. Looked up Jenn-Air on line and ordered parts. Lost wirihng diagram in the process but still had two switches wired . Replaced all four switches. Everything working great. However while I was waiting on switches to arrive, somebody at the house was fooling with the switch plate and broke the on red indicater lens so now I'm ordering that. Oh well....

We unscrewed the top plate, unscrewed the top of the switch removed the ballast underneath and it worked. I was so glad to be able to still get the parts.

First pulled the two screws holding the control with the switches. Then I unscrewed the nut holding the 6" burner switch and disconnected the wires on the switch and replaced the switch with the new one. Replaced the control unit in the range top and tested the repair.

Got a no-name tailor-it-yourself replacement switch from a San Jose, CA appliance parts store; but the switch was so cheaply made that it fell apart when I tested it.

Got a RobertShaw part from PartSelect and now the burner works perfectly.

Searched for parts and found PartsSelect to substantially underprice Sears for same items. removed old recept. with a screwdriver, no problem, had a little difficulty getting new wires attached as hand wouldn't fit under burner area and the wires were short. Also the recept. bracket screw hole was a little tight for the screw so I had to "stretch" it out a bit. Replacing drip pans and rings was a simple change out of the old, no tools needed for that. Overall an easy job.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

First, I removed the two screws holding the element in place. I removed the element from the connector. I then removed the trim ring and drip pan. I unscrewed the retaining screw holding the connector and pulled out the connector about three inches and disconnected the two wires leading to from the old connector. I removed the old connector. I then connected the two wires leading from the new connector and fasten the connector to its retainer with a screw . I reinserted the drip pan and trim ring and plugged the new element into the connector. I turned on control knob to high and tested the element., which glowed red hot. Job completed and customer very well satisfied..

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

Simply pulled the old ones off and pressed on the new control knobs. It took less than 10 minutes, saved us from replazcing an otherwise nice looking range top, and made a big deposit in my "Honey do" account. I just wish they still sold the clock and timer units to fit this stove. Oh and yes, the prices were very reasonable too. Thank You Brad Harris, Illinois

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

Important: Down load the helpful assembly diagram for the fan motor and study it for a few minutes. It's very straight forward. Also a good idea is to remove the bottom panel which comes off easy before starting.

My only problem was removing the existing blower/fan wheel without damaging it once I had the assembly on the work bench. It was rusted on tight and managed to remove after a few tries using penetrating oil. The wheel is in stock and I'd suggest buying a new one along with the new motor if I had to do the job again.

Bottom line; the fan motor fit perfect but did have to re-use part of the old existing electric pig tail because the motor does not come with the factory type motor terminal connectors. By using three twist on wire connectors was back in business. The down draft vent works like new.

Wife is happy...

Wade