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BA7500 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the BA7500
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Cold water would not enter washer.
Change the position of electrical connection on inlet valve before installation to match positions of old valve. Shut off electricy and water to washer. Disconnected water hoses, and power wires to old valve. Removed old valve and installed new valve exactly as installed on old valve. Washer operated perfectively
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Tevis from Albemarle, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Small puddle of water after the washer went through a complete cycle
I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I removed the two screws that held the top down. This allowed me to see the siphon valve when I lifted the top up. I disconnected the hose from the pump to the siphon valve by taking off the 2 clamps. Then I went to the back of the washer and moved the drain hose from the back by looseneing the clamp. Then I unscrewed the 4 screws holding the siphon valve in from the back. I took off the old valve put the new valve in and reversed the process to reinstall. It fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
Siphon Break Connector Kit
  • Daniel from Oviedo, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Low cold water flow during fill
Part shipping was great got here in two days-

I pulled off Front panel (two screws) and lifted Top panel (2 screws) and disconnected the inlet hoses. I removed the old Inlet valve. (1 scew and valve to tub hose connection).

Before Installing the new valve, i shifted the connector positions on the selenoids to match the old valve. and installed by reversing the steps. All went very smooth. Thanks, It was easy.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Jeff from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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limited hot water
1. Removed hoses 2. Removed inlet valve. 3. Took valve apart to discover defect in diaphram. 4. Looked up and ordered part. 5. Replaced inlet valve. 6. Tested washer.

I followed steps outlined on you web page.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • David from Palm Desert, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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After first spin, cold water comes in for rinsh, the water would not come in, but would run out on floor.
Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Cas from Cary, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Broken Syphon Break Elbow due to move.
Removed the screws with a small socket set. Moved around cover over so I can remove broken syphon. Placed new Syphon in it's place. Attached the hose to Syphon with new clamp and wala! Machine is back to normal. Thanks Parts Select :)
P.S. Delivery was faster then expected.
Parts Used:
Syphon Break Elbow Kit with Clamp
  • Maria from Gary, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Washer was leaking from the siphon break. A little difficult to find, as the water would ru down the drain tube & make you think that the leak was elsewhere.
I removed 2 screws at the bottom front corner of the washer. Then lifted the front panel upwards about 45 degrees, which allows the front panel to be removed.
I then removed one small lag bolt from under each front corner (with a nut driver), which hold the top to the frame.
I was now able to swing the top up to have access to the siphon break.
I then removed the drain hose from the rear of the machine where it is attached to the nipple end of the siphon break, by loosening the hose clamp. Still at the rear, the nipple end of the siphon break is attached with 4 mini lag bolts, Which go through the back plate & hold the siphon break to the inside of the washer. I removed the bolts with a nut driver.
The nipple end now fell away. You must save it, as the siphon break does not come with a new nipple end.from the siphon break. Maytag attaches it with an iron band, as they must think that this repair will never be done! I cut the band with the Dremel, being very careful not to cut the hose.
I pulled the siphon break free from the hose.
The installation is a reversal of the removal, starting with inserting the siphon break in the inner hose, clamping the hose with the supplied hose clamp.
I the removed the inner drain hose
Parts Used:
Siphon Break Connector Kit
  • Bengt from Matawan, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Washing machine was filling very slowly
I checked the inlet hoses for hard water build up and noted that this was not a problem. Then checked the hose from the inlet valve to the washer drum and determined that it was clear so I knew the problem was a faulty inlet valve. After receiving my replacement valve, I removed the old valve by removing the hot and cold water hoses and unscrewing two screws securing the inlet valve and lifting the inlet valve out the metal holding bracket. This gave me complete access to the inlet valve allowing me to remove the hose clamp and hose to the washing machine drum. The new inlet valve was an exact match so I removed the four electrical wires one by one while putting them back on the new inlet valve to insure correct electrical connections. I added a piece of one half inch plastic tubing provided with the new inlet valve on the outlet nipple of the new inlet valve to prevent leaking. I then put the new inlet valve back into the holding bracket and screwed it down. I replaced the hot and cold hoses to the new inlet valve carefully so as not to cross thread the plastic connection on the new inlet valve. After turning the water back on, I checked for leaks and plugged the washing machine back on to test it with a washing cycle.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Paul from San Antonio, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Cold water would not shut off, even after removing power.
Exactly as the video showed. This was a very simple repair. The only extra thing I did was to replace the mesh screen/gasket at the hose ends. They were plugged with crud. PartSelect saved me from buying a new washing machine. Yay!
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • David from Belchertown, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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water coming in the wash tub when not in use
I took the hot and cold water hoses off with pliers.and then I took the one screw out towards the top of the water inlet valve plate.disconnected 4 wires,there is a small clamp on the small hose on the valve you have to remove.and last there is a cluster of wires that has to be removed from a bracket and (it is important to put these cluster of wires back in place otherwise they will wear a bare spot in them.)
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • JEFF from FORT HILL, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Slow fill using hot water
My experience with my repair is as follows:
After determining the "hot water" solenoid was weak and that a new fill valve was needed, I placed my order with PartSelect on Thursday and to my suprise, had it in my hand Friday evening (no special shipping). WOW talk about fast! But unfortunately the part was broken.
Called PartSelect back Saturday morn to explain my problem and was told that I would be credited for the broken part and that a replacement would be sent ASAP probably arriving on Wednesday. Again to my suprise, the part arrived on Tuesday morning.
Hats off to you guys for great service, prices and no hassles.

Dennis Fleming
North Billerica, MA
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Dennis from North Billerica, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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water kept on filling tub even when not washing
Removed old part, installed new part. tested machine. worked fine.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • wayne from battle creek, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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water leaking, slow fill
I had taken the washer out and replaced both hoses, and the leak stopped for a load or two. I then replaced the water inlet valve, because I could see that the plastic threads were pretty bad. The repair is very simple on this model. There is no need to open the cabinet at all, the entire job is done on the back. I used a socket and the stubby driver for the mounting screws and switched to a screwdriver tip and opened the clamp on the hose leading to the air gap assembly. The entire operation took about five minutes. The repair worked for two or three loads.

The water leak came back, so after some searching I finally figured out how to open the cabinet, and that took longer than actually doing it. The front opens with two big screws located on the front about 4" above the floor, just in the corner of the indentation on the panel.

With the top tipped up (tape the lid!) out of the way, the leak proved to be coming out of the air gap assembly. There is an injector nozzle and a rubber sleeve that goes over it. They fit in the large black hose. I easily opened the hose clamp, removed the old parts, put in the new one. The rubber sleeve has a cover that goes over the edge of the plastic injection nozzle. You have to make sure it is entirely and smoothly inserted. Easy. Then insert it all the way to the shoulder of the end of the hose with that wide end facing into the hose and the other end open. Slip the open end through the bracket and into the other hose. Tighten all your clamps, and carefully pressure test. Do not touch any metal parts if there is water spewing. Just turn it off, pull the plug, and fix the problem. In my case, it worked perfectly, and I turned it off, replaced the front and the job was done.

Despite the great advice I got here, I ended up getting the nozzle parts in town. I had to go to an appliance parts outlet rather than a place like Home Depot, but it was quick and no shipping. Still, I would not have tried this without the great advice and fast service here.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Martha from Red Bluff, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Washer would not fill unless "cold" setting selected.
I watched a sample repair on YouTube and read the instructions that came with the part. All went as planned/described.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Bruce from Troy, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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water stopped flowing
pulled the front panel first, then lifted the top(2bolts in each).
Then unhooked water and unbolted the water inlet valve from the back left corner behind the tub.four wires are connected Pay attenion to where they go, for easy reinstallation.NOTE: watch the clips in the front of the washer they flew off and it took half an hour on the internet finding out how they went back on.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • michael from Pearland, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the BA7500
76 - 90 of 177