AT19M8A (DE56A) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Watch the video. 2. Save your old ice maker's cover, metal lift bar, and power cord and clip. New one does not come with the cover, metal lift bar and power cord and power cord clip 3. My ice maker had three screw. two on top that only need to be loosened. on e on the bottom that has to be removed

unplug power! Remove the screws from lower panel on back of refrigerator. Lift wire mount out of back panel. Capacitor is mounted directly to the relay and overload switch located on the left side of the compressor. Remove the spring clip holding the capacitor in place and pull the old capacitor out. Plug in new capacitor and replace spring clip. Use vacuum to remove dust from drip pan and wipe fan blades clean. Replace wire into slot on back panel and replace screws. Remove front coil cover below freezer door. vacuum dust off coils and replace cover. Plug refrigerator in and enjoy cold beverages. Relay and overload kit were not required for this repair.

Unplugged the unit. Removed items from the freezer. Remove 2 phillip head screws from the cover over the coils. Defrosted the unit with a blow dryer. Upon completion of defrosting, put everything back together. Removed items and top shelf in refrigerator to gain access to the controls. Removed a 1/4 inch nut head screw and loosened 2 each phillip head screws. Unplug the controls from unit and placed on kitchen counter. Removed 3 each phillip head screws holding the timer in place and unplugged the timer. Installed new timer, connected everything back together and placed everything back into the refrigerator. Plugged the unit back up and it is now cooling and defrosting properly. This whole process took approximately 45 minutes.

I followed the instructions shown on the YouTube video on the Parts Select site. I had to make a few modifications. There were two nuts that had to be loosened to lift the ice maker off the freezer wall. The mounting bracket had to be transferred from the old icemaker to the new one to align with the hole in the freezer to reattach. The white wire went under the clip was a black wire but it was easily recognized. Other than that it was very straight forward and I had new ice in a few hours. I would definitely do it again.

Moved fridge out from wall, unplugged power cord. Laid on floor, removed 6 screws from cover. Removed one threaded bolt to allow assembly to slide out. Removed special nut, and took fan off. Removed 3 motor mounting bolts. Unscrewed 2 wire nuts, and untwisted wires. (option 1, no ground) Vacuumed entire area around motor. Used 3 bolts to mount motor to holder assembly, and special nut to install fan. Stripped wires back about 3/4 inch. Twisted two wires together CW, and installed new wire nuts. Slid motor assembly back into slot,(keep wires away from blades) and used one threaded bolt to secure assembly. Reinstalled cover plate with 6 screws. Plugged power cord in to test air flow (out through cover vents). Moved fridge back into place. The loud whirring noise did not stop for a day; then quiet!

Replaced the ice maker. I have a 3 door refrig. It has a bottom drawer freezer. Remove the freezer door to make this much simpler. On my unit, the ice maker is installed with three screws, rather than one and two clips. Check before you try to pull it out. You should unplug the old ice maker from the refrig, leaving the wires on the old ice maker. It's much easier to remove the old wiring harness from the old ice maker once you've removed the front plastic cover on the unit. Both plugs on the harness have clips on them to prevent accidental disconnections. Be sure to find and press the clip releases before you pull on the wires. Nut driver makes this job easier than screw driver. You only need one size for all screws. I used the old ice maker bottom mounting clip rather than trying to bend the new one to shape. Much easier. My old ice maker had an extra wiring clip, which I moved to the new unit before the install. There is one wiring clip to hold the temperature probe, and another just to keep the wires neat. Letting the old ice maker front plastic cover warm up a bit before you try to pry it off for reuse is a good idea. Less chance of cracking. Two hours after the install, I had new ice in the ice bin.

Your video was very helpful and accurate. However, my freezer is a bottom drawer type, so I needed to remove the freezer door first. There were 4 nutscrews which needed to be loosened, and door lifted off. Now with the door off, and both baskets removed, access to the ice maker was easy like your video. Also, the freezer compartment was much more accessible for cleaning as well. In 2 days after replacing the ice maker, we have had 2 full batches of ice, with full sized cubes! Your ecommerce shopping, delivery, and instructional videos made for a great on line buying and installation experience. Note: The Dacor ice maker was replaced with a Whirlpool ice maker part. Your replacement part was identical in all respects to the original equipment even though Dacor was not included in your list of compatible brands.

watched the video you have on installation and followed it with ease. The only part you need a tool is to loosen the first nut and then everything else pretty much pops out and you reinstall with the new part. The icemaker worked within an hour and makes perfect cubes. The videos are super helpful.

Followed your video instructions and tips. Real easy

Getting the old ice maker out was not difficult - it sits on a small ridge built into the freezer and then it takes three screws to attach it to the side of the refrigerator. Three important things to remember: (1) take off the metal bar that shuts off the ice maker from the old part, the new part doesn't come with the bar; (2) keep the screws and the cap from the old ice maker as they don't come with the replacement part either; and (3) make sure you put the water tube back into the holder otherwise it will pour all over the freezer (and not into the ice tray).

Sorry for delay in writing. Part I ordered arrived two days ago and it was exactly what I needed. Knowing that there will be problems even with the smallest job I procrastinated starting. When I did start this morning I foud I had to completely remove the ice maker and disassemble it in order to install the water fill cup bracket. The challenge was reassembling the unit. Not hard for an experienced repairman but a challenge for layman. Everything is thing is back to gether now and power on cooling down the refrigerator. Won't know how successful it was until turn on water and ice is formed. If it works this saved $75 just to get a Sears repairman to come out and tell me what would be needed to fix the refrigerator and $1,000 if I had to buy a new refrigerator. Extremely satisfied with service I received. Thank you.

Researched this problem on the web. Disassembled the main refrigeration unit (slide out freezer floor panel). The cooling coils were completely iced up. Thawed overnight. Tested the coil thermostat with a multimeter and discovered it worked. Note that the activation temp on this thermostat is 15 degrees Fahrenheit so the ice-water bath test on many web videos will NOT work. My test was in another refrigerator freezer compartment (everyone has two, right?). When the temperature went below 15 and stayed there for 15 minutes, the thermostat opened the circuit. Further investigation revealed that the defrost heater was burnt and shorted. Replaced the defrost heater only to discover that the defrost timer was also broken. After replacing the defrost timer and testing each component thoroughly, the refrigerator is back in service. Freezer maintains about 8 F and the main refrigerator stays at about 36. The unit cycles off properly and the defrost timer is correctly initiating a defrost cycle. Further, when the defrost heater is cycled on, the thermostat correctly shuts it off once the coils are defrosted. Watch the youtube videos. Find your parts and note their specifications so you can test them properly. And good luck.

I turned off the water and electricity to the refrigerator. Then I removed the ice bin exposing the ice maker. I loosened the two screws on the wall with a 1/4" nutdriver and I removed the horizontal screw on the bottom of the ice maker again with the nut driver. That allowed me to lift off the ice maker so that I could remove the wiring harness from the ice maker. A flat screwdriver helped me push in the retaining tab, and disengage the harness. Installation was in the reverse order. A third hand would have helped reconnect the wiring harness, but I put a shoe box on the top shelf of the freezer compartment to hold the new unit while I connected the wiring harness, making sure to "hear it click" when fully engaged. I then removed the wire "feeler" from the old unit and inserted it in the new one. Inserting the water inlet hose and hanging the ice maker was simple after that. The existing bracket holding the ice maker on the bottom was not rusted so I did not replace it even though a new one came with the ice maker. I should add that I had previously defrosted the freezer in order to remove the ice bin as it could not be removed with the block of ice that had frozen in the front end. I'm a senior citizen with no prior experience in changing an ice maker. I wasn't trying to set an amount of time it could take which was about 40 minutes, including the time it took to turn off/on the water and electric breaker and go to the garage for a flat screwdriver and find the right size nutdriver, and next time I could probably do the job in about 20 to 30 minutes! Bob I. San Diego, CA

Removed bad motor with socket set and pliers then removed the connectors from the old motor and soldered them on the new one. Then installed new motor. Works like new! Problem Solved! Easy fix!

This refrigerator has the freezer on the bottom. You have to remove both of the drawers to get to the icemakeer. I did not disconnect the water line or the power to the unit because it is a hassle to pull the unit out of the hole where it resides. I first unplugged the power from the icemaker to the unit and used a flat tip screwdriver to get the icemaker out. The old one was gross. We had noticed flakes in the ice for over a year but thought it was the water. The wire bar from to stop making ice had to be moved from the old icemaker to the new one as well as a brace on the bottom of the icemaker and the front cover. This is all easy. The hardest part of the repair was getting the larger drawer back on its guide. Honestly, this was a repair my 11 yr old grandson could have done with some supervision. I'm guessing I easily saved $100 by repairing this myself.