ASD2123DRQ Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed two screws from face plate then nudged plate up until it cleared the two top screws. Removed three screws holding the actual kit in place. Gently pulled the unit forward and pulled the water tube out from above the kit, then disconnected the wires connecting the unit. At this time the unit is separated from the refrigerator and you can disconnect the solenoid to remove it. The plunger in the solenoid was a little different from the old one as it connects to the insulator flap bar but Partselect has made a good/easy modification for replacement. Before installation I recommend lubricating the plastic actuator switch. Reverse the procedures you used to access the unit. Very easy.

Replaced the ice maker. I have a 3 door refrig. It has a bottom drawer freezer. Remove the freezer door to make this much simpler. On my unit, the ice maker is installed with three screws, rather than one and two clips. Check before you try to pull it out. You should unplug the old ice maker from the refrig, leaving the wires on the old ice maker. It's much easier to remove the old wiring harness from the old ice maker once you've removed the front plastic cover on the unit. Both plugs on the harness have clips on them to prevent accidental disconnections. Be sure to find and press the clip releases before you pull on the wires. Nut driver makes this job easier than screw driver. You only need one size for all screws. I used the old ice maker bottom mounting clip rather than trying to bend the new one to shape. Much easier. My old ice maker had an extra wiring clip, which I moved to the new unit before the install. There is one wiring clip to hold the temperature probe, and another just to keep the wires neat. Letting the old ice maker front plastic cover warm up a bit before you try to pry it off for reuse is a good idea. Less chance of cracking. Two hours after the install, I had new ice in the ice bin.

I removed three screws from top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge and set door on a flat surface. Replaced part and set door back in place. Put screws back and door fit tight again.

Your video was very helpful and accurate. However, my freezer is a bottom drawer type, so I needed to remove the freezer door first. There were 4 nutscrews which needed to be loosened, and door lifted off. Now with the door off, and both baskets removed, access to the ice maker was easy like your video. Also, the freezer compartment was much more accessible for cleaning as well. In 2 days after replacing the ice maker, we have had 2 full batches of ice, with full sized cubes! Your ecommerce shopping, delivery, and instructional videos made for a great on line buying and installation experience. Note: The Dacor ice maker was replaced with a Whirlpool ice maker part. Your replacement part was identical in all respects to the original equipment even though Dacor was not included in your list of compatible brands.

watched the video you have on installation and followed it with ease. The only part you need a tool is to loosen the first nut and then everything else pretty much pops out and you reinstall with the new part. The icemaker worked within an hour and makes perfect cubes. The videos are super helpful.

Followed your video instructions and tips. Real easy

Getting the old ice maker out was not difficult - it sits on a small ridge built into the freezer and then it takes three screws to attach it to the side of the refrigerator. Three important things to remember: (1) take off the metal bar that shuts off the ice maker from the old part, the new part doesn't come with the bar; (2) keep the screws and the cap from the old ice maker as they don't come with the replacement part either; and (3) make sure you put the water tube back into the holder otherwise it will pour all over the freezer (and not into the ice tray).

unplug refrigerator, take backing off with nut driver. Pull old blade off and put new blade on. Put backing back on and plug in.

Sorry for delay in writing. Part I ordered arrived two days ago and it was exactly what I needed. Knowing that there will be problems even with the smallest job I procrastinated starting. When I did start this morning I foud I had to completely remove the ice maker and disassemble it in order to install the water fill cup bracket. The challenge was reassembling the unit. Not hard for an experienced repairman but a challenge for layman. Everything is thing is back to gether now and power on cooling down the refrigerator. Won't know how successful it was until turn on water and ice is formed. If it works this saved $75 just to get a Sears repairman to come out and tell me what would be needed to fix the refrigerator and $1,000 if I had to buy a new refrigerator. Extremely satisfied with service I received. Thank you.

Ordered solenoid, watched video, replaced solenoid, works great.

I followed the video exactly

I turned off the water and electricity to the refrigerator. Then I removed the ice bin exposing the ice maker. I loosened the two screws on the wall with a 1/4" nutdriver and I removed the horizontal screw on the bottom of the ice maker again with the nut driver. That allowed me to lift off the ice maker so that I could remove the wiring harness from the ice maker. A flat screwdriver helped me push in the retaining tab, and disengage the harness. Installation was in the reverse order. A third hand would have helped reconnect the wiring harness, but I put a shoe box on the top shelf of the freezer compartment to hold the new unit while I connected the wiring harness, making sure to "hear it click" when fully engaged. I then removed the wire "feeler" from the old unit and inserted it in the new one. Inserting the water inlet hose and hanging the ice maker was simple after that. The existing bracket holding the ice maker on the bottom was not rusted so I did not replace it even though a new one came with the ice maker. I should add that I had previously defrosted the freezer in order to remove the ice bin as it could not be removed with the block of ice that had frozen in the front end. I'm a senior citizen with no prior experience in changing an ice maker. I wasn't trying to set an amount of time it could take which was about 40 minutes, including the time it took to turn off/on the water and electric breaker and go to the garage for a flat screwdriver and find the right size nutdriver, and next time I could probably do the job in about 20 to 30 minutes! Bob I. San Diego, CA

Had replaced Adaptive Defrost board 3 months earlier so thought something may have been wrong with defrost again. Checked coils in freezer and they were not iced up. Pulled fridge out to get at back. Removed lower panel using nut driver. Noticed compressor fan was running and compressor was too yet fan was not running very fast. Unplugged fridge and checked wires going to compressor. Pulled orange wire off and noticed spade terminal was blackened. Pulled remaining wires off (blue & white) to check for more burn marks. Those were ok. While pulling off wires the starter/overload relay started coming off from the compressor. Pulled it completely off. Noticed the spade lug terminal for the orange wire was burned. Pulled assembly apart and found the contacts and plastic inside of casing were very burnt. Ordered new unit and requested overnite delivery. Needed a fix fast. Fortunately for us my Dad had 2 refrigerators partially used at his house so we moved everything down to his place. Thats the part that sucks the most. New part was not exact replacement but works ok. Overload relay (1 connector) goes on the bottom pin of the compressor first. After that is on you put the 2 connector starter relay on. It helps keep the overload circuit in place given its a separate part unlike the orignal part being all 1 unit. I also had to clip the terminal ends off from the orange wire and crimp a new end on given the plastic was burned and metal connector was black. No sense in using it as it would start out with a bad connection and likely burn up again. I even flowed a little solder on the crimp/wire as well to make sure I had good contact. Once all wires were plugged back onto the starter/overload relay I plugged fridge in. At first I thought it didn't fix it as the fan nor compressor turned on. However, after a few minutes compressor and fan both started up and have been running since. Looking back, the smell that we had of burned plastic the nite before must have been this part on the compressor. Unfortunately we couldn't figure out where the smell had come from. About 15hrs later was when we noticed the water dripping out of the freezer. Also, the slow running fan and the fact that the compressor was running likely meant both were running under low voltage conditions given the burned up contacts and wire that I had. Always easy to look back to see why things were doing what they were once you figure out what caused it. Freezer and fridge have been running great now for better than a week. One side note - On my old adaptive defrost board that I replaced 3 months prior, I found a bad capacitor on it so for $2 I think I have a repaired adaptive defrost board now too as a spare. :) If you are curious like me and you want to try to repair an adaptive defrost board, check out capcitor C2. Its suppose to be a 22uf 50v. The one on my bad board measured open. Another spare part I obtained from my starter/overload relay repair was the overload circuit. On the orignal part it was all part of 1 unit but when you take it apart it too is really 2 separate parts in 1 molded case. In fact, I used the original overload circuit with the new starter relay so I have a spare overload circuit for the fridge too.

Removed bad motor with socket set and pliers then removed the connectors from the old motor and soldered them on the new one. Then installed new motor. Works like new! Problem Solved! Easy fix!

This refrigerator has the freezer on the bottom. You have to remove both of the drawers to get to the icemakeer. I did not disconnect the water line or the power to the unit because it is a hassle to pull the unit out of the hole where it resides. I first unplugged the power from the icemaker to the unit and used a flat tip screwdriver to get the icemaker out. The old one was gross. We had noticed flakes in the ice for over a year but thought it was the water. The wire bar from to stop making ice had to be moved from the old icemaker to the new one as well as a brace on the bottom of the icemaker and the front cover. This is all easy. The hardest part of the repair was getting the larger drawer back on its guide. Honestly, this was a repair my 11 yr old grandson could have done with some supervision. I'm guessing I easily saved $100 by repairing this myself.